Fitting the EGR Cheater

[stewedw]

Hi mate, I bought an egr cheaer earlier in the year, hopefully you guys will have the record of it. Turns out it's decided to fail on me and now the car is stuttering like a kangeroo after 10 pints of fosters lol!! Problem Is I chucked away the egr valve and I went down to my mate garage who is a motor engineer and he said its causing the ecu to mis-read something kinda like an electrical fault hence the random stuttering. When I say random I mean it was fine for 7 days, however the last 48 hours has been impossible to drive and I had to nurse the car home tonight for work not ideal at 3am , strangley the engine doesn't splutter when the the clutch is in or when idling, only under load?

Anyway, I don't know if I can run the car without the cheater i.e just remove it as the blanking plate is in place or if you want it posted back to you to replace or if I need to pay for a new one etc, so drop me a line if possible on [email protected] so I can sort out whatever needs to be done mate.

thanks again

 

[Matt]

Hi mate, I bought an egr cheaer earlier in the year, hopefully you guys will have the record of it. Turns out it's decided to fail on me and now the car is stuttering like a kangeroo after 10 pints of fosters lol!! Problem Is I chucked away the egr valve and I went down to my mate garage who is a motor engineer and he said its causing the ecu to mis-read something kinda like an electrical fault hence the random stuttering. When I say random I mean it was fine for 7 days, however the last 48 hours has been impossible to drive and I had to nurse the car home tonight for work not ideal at 3am , strangley the engine doesn't splutter when the the clutch is in or when idling, only under load?

Anyway, I don't know if I can run the car without the cheater i.e just remove it as the blanking plate is in place or if you want it posted back to you to replace or if I need to pay for a new one etc, so drop me a line if possible on [email protected] so I can sort out whatever needs to be done mate.

thanks again

Hello mate, got a record of your purchase from 23rd June, so no worries. Will ask vocky to send you a new one out.

 

[vocky]

could be the coilpack as they don't give an error code when faulty and cause misfiring, but to help locate your problem simply remove the egr cheater and see if it makes a difference, all you will get is an eml

 

[astra22bertoneauto]

vocky usually makes them all ready for the weekend (posting out Friday), so hopefully be in the post today.

Hiya Matt & Vocky - do you know if it has been sent (1st or 2nd class etc) as not received yet. Postie has been today but nothing.

I wouldnt pester normally but my egr is rusted to f*** and is sticking, thus sending dodgy info to ecu.

Cheers

 

[Matt]

They are all sent 1st class recorded delivery mate. All orders from last week have been shipped.

 

[astra22bertoneauto]

They are all sent 1st class recorded delivery mate. All orders from last week have been shipped.

No worries i bet its because of xmas post etc

 

[stewedw]

Hi mate, I bought an egr cheaer earlier in the year, hopefully you guys will have the record of it. Turns out it's decided to fail on me and now the car is stuttering like a kangeroo after 10 pints of fosters lol!! Problem Is I chucked away the egr valve and I went down to my mate garage who is a motor engineer and he said its causing the ecu to mis-read something kinda like an electrical fault hence the random stuttering. When I say random I mean it was fine for 7 days, however the last 48 hours has been impossible to drive and I had to nurse the car home tonight for work not ideal at 3am , strangley the engine doesn't splutter when the the clutch is in or when idling, only under load?

Anyway, I don't know if I can run the car without the cheater i.e just remove it as the blanking plate is in place or if you want it posted back to you to replace or if I need to pay for a new one etc, so drop me a line if possible on [email protected] so I can sort out whatever needs to be done mate.

thanks again

cheers matt, vocky also sent a pm saying that sluttering under load could be the coil pack so I replaced this today and the problem hasn't improved (I had a spare coil pack from last years engine that blew in may 2009!!) Easy job to change.

So thats a coil pack I know is ok, new plugs and egr cheater removed (until new one arrives) and the problem is sometimes smallish however last night regardless of gears or rev range the car was virtually undrive-able -- didn't matter if its -5 or like yeastarday in glasgow +8 degrees.

Any thoughts fellas?

 

[vocky]

so with the egr cheater removed, another coil pack and new plugs it's still doing the same thing notsure.gif

sounds like it could be fuel related, so could be the fuel filter is blocked or a dodgy injector dunno..

 

[vocky]

They are all sent 1st class recorded delivery mate. All orders from last week have been shipped.

the lady at the post office did say they cannot do next day 1st class delivery due to the weather and christmas post, but it's on it's way

 

[astra22bertoneauto]

They are all sent 1st class recorded delivery mate. All orders from last week have been shipped.

the lady at the post office did say they cannot do next day 1st class delivery due to the weather and christmas post, but it's on it's way

Thanks Vocky - its just annoying because my egr is sending dodgy info to the ecu. damn thing must be original one and its all rusty etc & sticking. Its been blanked off but still connected to wiring.

 

[vocky]

just unplug the dodgy egr valve, all you will get is an eml saying the valve is dead

 

[astra22bertoneauto]

They are all sent 1st class recorded delivery mate. All orders from last week have been shipped.

the lady at the post office did say they cannot do next day 1st class delivery due to the weather and christmas post, but it's on it's way

Thanks Vocky - its just annoying because my egr is sending dodgy info to the ecu. damn thing must be original one and its all rusty etc & sticking. Its been blanked off but still connected to wiring.

Well got it today but as 4in of snow fell this morning ill be damned if im going out today hehe

 

[stu-2.2-sri]

i bought a egr cheater plug n play cant remmie while ago as i dont know about it so i have moaning about a lout over vvoc about this as i find blank and cheate made my car lumpy and now i been told by someone it egr cheater is faulty from day 1 i have say abut diobe faulty like that
if you see this please get in touych with me via pm or over vvoc please my username is same over there
THANK

as i am not happy with it at all
and it now back on standard egr and plug it and it stop doing it

 

[MikeS]

as they cost near enough peanuts to produce where the cost is mostly postage it would be easier m8 if you just asked for a replacement

the diode's cost less than a penny to produce so QA is not a big deal

 

[vocky]

a replacement is on it's way

 

[stu-2.2-sri]

a replacement is on it's way

thank you very much cheers

 

[astra22bertoneauto]

Fitted my EGR Cheater today with following results.....

EGR Valve = 0.9 V
EGR Cheater = 1.45/1.47 V

Did notice little idle issue but checking readings it would appear i have a dodgy Lambda before the cat as that varies between 60 mV & 928 mV.

Lambda after cat running nicely and constant.

 

[Dan]

From what I learn't earlier this year with llambda problems, the pre cat sensor should fluctuate between the readings you have, averaging about 450mv as the ECU adjusts the short term fuel trim, which adds or subtracts from the map readings how much fuel it will inject. The post cat sensor should be a constant around 450mv at tick over and will rise as you put your foot down or drop as you let off, this means your cat is working properly and converting the emissions as it should. If your pre cat sensor is a constant reading while idle then it may be faulty and if your post cat sensor shows the same fluctuation ans the pre cat sensor you may have a faulty cat.

Hope this helps.

 

[astra22bertoneauto]

From what I learn't earlier this year with llambda problems, the pre cat sensor should fluctuate between the readings you have, averaging about 450mv as the ECU adjusts the short term fuel trim, which adds or subtracts from the map readings how much fuel it will inject. The post cat sensor should be a constant around 450mv at tick over and will rise as you put your foot down or drop as you let off, this means your cat is working properly and converting the emissions as it should. If your pre cat sensor is a constant reading while idle then it may be faulty and if your post cat sensor shows the same fluctuation ans the pre cat sensor you may have a faulty cat.

Hope this helps.

Thanks.

My precat sensor has stabilised at 940mv & post cat is similar. The cat is HJS but i think my problems stem from having a couple of tweaks without a remap.

 

[Dan]

If you have a diagnostics kit capable of logging details, hook your laptop up and set it to record the readings from both lambdas the throttle position and the fuel trims. Take the car for a spin and give it some different driving conditions (accerleration, deceleration and drive at a constant speed for a bit should do the trick).
It will then be obvious if you have a faulty lambda.

Your readings on your lambdas should reflect the amount of fuel put in when things change. So when you floor it the lambda readings should shoot up until the computer can bring it down with the short term fuel trim, and when you let off the throttle and let the engine slow the car down they should drop to near 0. Also at constant speed the ecu should be able to control the fuel and emisions the same way as at idle so the first sensor will fluctuate between 50mv and 950mv.

Even with mods that aren't accounted for in the maps on the ecu it should still be able to control the fueling and thus alter the sensor readings as it does normally. The worst that should happen is your engine wont run at full potential.