2.4 Inlet How 2 fit 2.4 inlet manifold to a vx220

#1
this is a basic guide to fitting the 2.4 inlet manifold :)

firstly, disconnect the battery

remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum pipe and fittings

disconnect the cam cover oil vapour pipe

disconnect the air temp sensor and remove the intake pipe (air filter to the throttle body)

disconnect the tb wiring plug then remove the throttle body

disconnect the map sensor and remove the sensor (sits behind the tb)

remove the egr pipe and blank off the egr valve

disconnect the fuel vent pipe

disconnect the servo vacuum hose

remove the dip stick and tube

remove the ecu

remove the bolts holding the inlet manifold to the head, remove the two nuts and also remove the two studs (Tx socket)

the engine wiring loom is held onto the inlet manifold from underneath, disconnect the clips from the inlet manifold (a pain to get at)

remove the inlet manifold from the car (a quick thanx to Jamee for nicking his pic :) )

acdn.z22se.com_userpix_13_inlet_removed_1.jpg


next remove the big red cable from the alternator - 13mm nut

then remove plastic cover from the back of the alternator, two 13mm nuts and a screw

refit the 13mm nut to the outer 8mm stud and reattach the big red cable with it's original nut

then fit the new suppressor to the other 8mm stud and the other end to the screw

acdn.z22se.com_userpix_13_IMGP1281_1.jpg


fit the new gaskets to the 2.4 inlet manifold and fit the manifold to the engine

[ignore the adaptor plate, I required this for my 2.0sc tb, the 58mm + 2.4 tb do not require this]
acdn.z22se.com_userpix_13_IMGP1284_2.jpg


then replace the servo pipe one way valve with one from an astra or corsa (90373359) and fit a new piece of servo hose from the valve to the inlet manifold (make sure it's servo hose not water hose)

acdn.z22se.com_userpix_13_IMGP12_3.jpg


make a bracket for the dipstick and refit it

acdn.z22se.com_userpix_13_IMGP1296_2.jpg


connect up the fuel pressure regulator to the new servo one way valve with a new piece of tubing (vectra's have loads of this pipe under the bonnet, use a scrappy)

refit the map sensor and connect the plug

refit the 58mm throttle body using the 2.2 gasket (not the 2.4 gasket) and ensure it seals the tb or fit the new 2.4 tb and connect the plug

make a couple of brackets and refit the ecu, make sure the earth cable is bolted tight direct to the ecu

reconnect the fuel vent pipe

refit the intake pipe for a 58mm tb or fit a new 75mm intake for the new 2.4 tb

reconnect the air temp sensor

acdn.z22se.com_userpix_13_IMGP1341_1.jpg


refit the cam cover oil vapour pipe (58mm tb) or fit an oil catch tank

make a final check and then reconnect the battery

remember to let the ecu settle by only driving with moderate revs for 25 miles or so :)
 
#2
Great guide Vocky hail.. Hope to put this into practice if the group buy comes together.
The only thing bothering me is the Suppressor, I am not electronically minded just mechanically. What purpose does this serve and where can I get one :roll:

cheers..
 
#3
why are you now linking the fpr vacuum to the servo one way valve ?
You no longer link it to the side of the manifold near the head (as in the topic in sticky ?)
 
#4
alanoo said:
why are you now linking the fpr vacuum to the servo one way valve ?
You no longer link it to the side of the manifold near the head (as in the topic in sticky ?)
on the 2.4 inlet manifold there is no small take off for the fpr pipe :(
 
#5
Lotustype116 said:
The only thing bothering me is the Suppressor, I am not electronically minded just mechanically. What purpose does this serve and where can I get one :roll:

cheers..
the suppressor is built into the plastic end cover of the alternator, but this cover has to be removed to allow the 2.4 inlet to fit, so it needs to be replaced :roll:

demon tweaks sell them, as should any good car alternator supplier

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ ... e=BRICD-01

acdn.z22se.com_userpix_13_suppressor_1.jpg
 
#7
I thought the suppressor would be the easy part to source :roll:

My suppressor has two leads, I fitted a crimp terminal to each wire, then just connect one to the 8mm stud/13mm nut and the other end to the 6mm screw.

Note: The 58mm TB will require the 2.2 tb gasket and I would also recommend drilling the four bolt holes oversize by 1.5mm to allow the tb to move over slightly to form a good seal on the gasket.
Markv noticed it's a very close fit using the 2.4 tb gasket cheers..

If you are aiming for 180bhp+ then the matching 2.4 tb is probably a better idea anyway :)
 
#18
vocky, does having the clam off make it significantly easier to fit the manifold? Mine is off at the moment and I was p0lanning on keeping it off but it's significantly holding up my rebuild now :(
 
#20
I had my rear clam off and was always thinking "I am really glad I am not trying to do this with the clam on". With it off you can climb on the rear subframe, you can reach between the engine and firewall much easier, especially when modding the alternator (which otherwise probably can be done from underneath the car). I would say that if you have the clam off anyway - take the opportunity to do the manifold mod!

Edit: oops, Vocky beat me to it cheers..
 
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