You are currently viewing our forum as a Guest.
By registering not only can you take part in the forum, it will also remove most of the adverts.

Supercharger Fitting Guide Astra G

Discussion in 'Supercharger' started by evocarlos, September 14, 2013.

  1. here is a brief guide to fitting a supercharger to an astra g

    part required for a standard fit (stage 1)
    • supercharger
    • inlet manifold
    • manifold bracket
    • z20let injectors
    • 2bar map sensor (courtney sport)
    • bosch injector plugs
    • K'n'N filter
    • LSJ throttle body (optional)
    • belt pulley and bracket (courtney sport)
    • Manifold Gasket z20net (vauxhall)
    • various nuts bolts
    • wire for extending the loom
    you will most likelly be supplyed the parts in the pic when importing a charger kit

    when fitting the inlet manifold and supercharger there are many parts that need removing
    • battery
    • battery tray
    • air box
    • inlet pipe
    • fuel lines
    • fuel rail + injectors
    • inlet manifold
    • ecu + loom
    once all the above is removed it should look similar to this

    i pre made the injector plugs up with some wire ready for extending the main loom they were color coded to match the main loom but you can use what ever color just be sure to label them up with a pen and masking tape

    the alternator will need the rear cover removing and one bolt cutting off short then also to fit a suppressor
    you can get one from a scrappy off the rear of a z22se then just drill the hole out to fit the bolt the wire end of the suppressor will need to be earthed on the top screw
    there is no difference in size on the 100 amp vs 120 amp (100 amp without heated seats) (120 amp fitted to most 2003 onwards)

    here you can see the wire from the suppressor going to earth and the front bolt cut to make sure it won't short on the manifold
    top tip: when fitting the alternator use 4 x M10 nuts on the block side to bring the alternators position further out :)

    now back to the install
    1st fit the lower manifold bracket
    you will need some longer M8 bolts and be sure to refit the earth tags to the bolts

    A/C pump
    if your keeping the A/C this next step will need to be done if you're not keeping the A/C you can move on to the next bit :)
    here you can see the a/c pump has been moved out on some collars i made up
    the issue with keeping the A/C is the pipe is a right funny shape and always in the way
    i removed the top plastic support from the radiator fan case and then bent the a/c pipe over and down to miss the inlet manifold be sure to do this slow you dont want to kink or crack the pipe
    and with the extra collars i had to make new longer bolts from all thread bar and some nuts

    right so now the A/C pump is dealt with or not :)
    you can fit the inlet manifold with the alternator not fitted
    the 2 M6 manifold studs will need to be removed to get the inlet down into place
    new M6 pins and washers will need to be used when fitting the inlet as there a different length
    dont forget to install the lower bracket bolt to support the weight of the inlet and charger

    next step is to fit the z20let injectors in the z22se fuel rail
    top tip: use bum lube (aka vaseline) on the injector O rings to aid there fitment
    use the z22se injector clips to hold the z20let injectors in to the rail
    heres a pic of before the swap (upper z22se lower z20let)

    install the wire extensions and plugs to the rail and injectors then fit the rail to the engine the plastic of the plug on injector #3 is close to the manifold but will sit fine once installedthe new map sensor and the fuel vent wiring will also need to be extended to where ever you move the ecu to

    now fit the alternator with the M10 nuts on the block and the longer bolts and belt bracket from CS
    dont forget to fit the battery power cable and the plug to the alternator
    for use with out A/C the bracket can stay as it is for use with A/C you will need to add a 2nd idler pulley to drive the alternator

    without the 2nd idler when keeping the A/C the belt won't touch the alternator pulley so you need to source a z22se tensioner and use the pulley from it to push the belt back on to the alternator

    using the slot in the CS bracket some washers and a nylock nut i was able to make the 2nd pulley system work giving the alternator drive
    top tip: be creative :) the bolt in the top pulley came from the pulley fitted to the stock USA bracket :)

    fitting the new map sensor requires some tape putting on the stub then the rubber fitting over the tape as the hole in the manifold is too big without the tape
    the metal bracket from the map sensor on the supercharger can be used to hold the new map sensor in place
    fit the supercharger gasket then lower the supercharger on to the manifold it will take a few tries to get it in but it will fit :) the front bolts on the charger are a right pain to fit i swapped the cap head bolts for som M8 bolt then used a small socket set with the universal joint to tighten the front bolts up

    the top coolant hose was taken from a vectra C z22se it comes with a plastic tee the tee was squished in a vice to remove the metal band leaving the pipe free for me to use
    top tip : be creative :)

    the fuel line over the charger will need to be bent to miss the charger some people cut the pipe and use rubber fuel line and 2 jubilee clips at the ends of the rubber i wanted to try and keep it oem looking :)
    the air filter is a halfords special £22 ripspeed
    the rocker cover breather is just vented to atmosphere atm will be fitting it to the air filter at some point
    the battery location most fit it in the boot but with the hole OEM look i wanted it up front
    had to get a smaller size battery and modify the tray some

    when getting your belt it's easy to just get a length of string wrap it round the pulleys tie it off then measure the string then go and buy the closet belt to the measurement mine was 5pk 1453 but i ended up using a 5pk 1463

    and if your using the LSJ throttle body you will need to swap the wires in the T/B plug to make it work
    if your using the z22se T/B all you will require is the adapter plate to make it fit the supercharger


    the ecu will need to be sent to CS for supercharger base map to get you running

    this is a brief guide to show the basic way to fit the supercharger some parts are not covered but any questions i should beable to answer here
    thanks for looking :)
    #1 evocarlos, September 14, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: August 22, 2015
    • Like Like x 10
  2. understanding the charge cooler dual pass modification

    the standard inlet manifold has a built in water to air intake cooling system
    it has 1 inlet and 1 outlet in the factory supplied style
    top is out bottom is in

    the water passes thru the manifold in series and for each time it runs thru a laminova core the cooling efficiency drops as the water temp in the core rises
    core pass.

    the dual pass mod requires the 2 lower laminova cores to be swapped round in the picture you can see the duel pass end plate this plate uses the middle pipe as input and the to outer pipes as out puts
    duel pass.JPG

    the dual pass converts the flow into parallel meaning the 2 center cores get the same input temperature water and the to outer cores get less heated before going back for cooling
    dual pass.

    here is the generic ways to set laminova's up
    #2 evocarlos, September 17, 2013
    Last edited: September 17, 2013
  3. Charge cooler pump and Tank setup

    the charge cooler for the inlet manifold runs on a separate system from the engine and requires more parts to work
    pump bracket (should come with charger kit)
    a header tank 1 x 3/4" outlet and 1x 1/4" inlet the cap should be a pressure relief type
    charge cooler radiator with 3/4" hose tails
    3/4" pipe and various fittings (tee/elbow/straight)
    jubilee clips to suit the 3/4" and 1/4" pipe
    a 0.9mm orifice for the bleed tube
    ev1 style fuel injector plug to fit bosch pump

    heres a pic of the bosch pump fitting in a modified LSJ pump bracket
    it sits at the front of the engine block under the inlet manifold

    the water loop for the cooling should be set up like the below image
    the tank keeps the pump supplied with water the pump then sends the water to the inlet
    then on to the radiator for cooling where it then goes back to the pump to complete its circuit
    the green 1/4" pipe is to bleed the air from the radiator the pipe has the orifice installed inside to restrict the flow and only a small amount of water thru keeping the rad constantly bled of air
    water loop.

    the only issue with the above setup is there would be some air trapped in the red pipe at the exit of the inlet i hope to revise this on my install as i will be running the dual pass endplate

    the pump should be at the lowest point in the system and the tank in the highest point

    if you dont recognize the layout its the same as the engine cooling loop except without the thermostat feeding the radiator :)
    #3 evocarlos, September 21, 2013
    Last edited: September 22, 2013
  4. this is how we do the vx220 cc system

    #4 vocky, September 22, 2013
    Last edited: September 22, 2013
  5. yeah thats the other way (flow thru) you still get air trapped in the cooler

    the expansion tank is the way i will be setting it up as i dont have the engine at the wrong end so no need to run 20ft of pipe to meet the cooler :) and it will be self purging

    even the option B setup for the cobalt is different (shows dual pass) and pumps to the rad 1st then inlet but still has the expansion tank on the pump feed to keep constant water supply

    heres the standard cobalt loop without duelpass
    #5 evocarlos, September 22, 2013
    Last edited: October 29, 2013
  6. the electric coolant pumps will push any air out of the cc system, so there is no need for an air bleed off.

    The vx220 set up keeps the cc systems coolant much cooler, it uses the tank as storage for cooled water, otherwise the tank is just there to keep the system full
  7. if i hadn't water cooled my pc i would've agreed with that but there is air in all the water blocks sat at the top :) its much easier to turn a pc upside down lol
    the air will sit at the top and the water will take the easiest route to the exit leaving reducing efficiency on the rad unless the rad has a bleed screw that can be used

    yep keeping the system full is my goal while getting air out i have no need to have a tank of cooled water the system can only be as efficient as it is the loop with the inlet and rad is all thats required gm has more money to research this than i do :)
    have read about more water = cooler but thats just a wrong statement as more water just take longer to get superheated the water will all get to the same temperature eventually
  8. you are lucky to have the engine at the front of the car too, so it doesn't get as hot as the vx220 engines :whistle:
  9. that is true but theres not a lot of room for movement not sure if the harrop will fit in the astra without more modification
    the size difference is huge
  10. Extension of the loom
    now that the supercharger inlet is installed the ecu has no location to bolt to what with there being a supercharger there lol
    the ecu will require moving to a location of your choice ether by the headlight,abs pump or where the air box used to be or other
    i moved mine over the headlight as i kept the battery in the engine bay
    with moving the ecu to any location the are a few wires that will require extending
    • fuel vent
    • map sensor
    • injectors
    • throttle body
    there are 2 parts to the engine loom the main engine loom with plugs
    part 1
    • lambda 2
    • lambda 1
    • water temp probe
    • suppressor
    • coil pack
    • egr
    • injector 4
    • injector 3
    • x22 pass thru
    • map sensor
    • injector 2
    • throttle body
    • ecu ground
    • knock sensor
    • crank sensor
    • oil pressure switch
    • oil level switch
    • injector 1
    • ecu
    • fuel vent
    part 2
    • ecu
    • injector multi plug
    • main engine bay loom
    the engine loom will require splitting open (removing tape and split tube) its advisable to mark each plug with masking tape and a pen so you can keep track of what's what

    with all the parts in place rfit the loom to the engine then test fit to your location for the ecu

    here are the ev1 plugs with wire fitted ready to fit the engine loom (ev1 plugs are used for z20let injectors)

    the new wires for the injectors can be made in to a mini loom along with the fuel vent and map sensor
    as shown here

    once you have ran all the new wires back to you ecu location you can start to cut and solder each wire to the matching wire from the original places
    i recommend soldering the joints and using shrink tube over the top of the joint for safe short free joint

    here you can see the early testing stages of the wiring before it was all wrapped back up and fitted inside some new 20mm split tube
    #10 evocarlos, October 11, 2013
    Last edited: October 12, 2013
  11. heres a guide to fitted the bung that i sell for the map sensor on the charger
    take the bung and some RTV or bearing fit

    put a bead round the bottom of the bung

    install the bung twisting while going in to spread the sealer

    the bung is made to be a interference fit and will require taping home

    use a hammer stale to tap it all the way in

    wipe any excess off and leave for awhile for the bearing fit or rtv to set

    if you ever need to remove the bung you can turn the charger over open the bypass valve then use a long screwdriver or punch to tap it out :)
    #11 evocarlos, October 12, 2013
    Last edited: October 12, 2013
    • Like Like x 2
  12. Great thread evocarlos, thanks for posting!
    I'm looking to get more power out of my Z22SE and someone has pointed me in the direction of fitting a supercharger and I stumbled on your pretty much complete guide!
    Hope you don't mind me asking, but ow much did it set you back to buy all the parts but do the work yourself? Courtney Sports are looking at upwards of 6k for the work to be done and to be honest I don't have that kind of cash. Besides, I'd be well willing to out the work in myself.
    For the redoing of the wiring looms, do you have any more info/photos as I think this could be am area that would trip me up...
    Also how long did it take you to get the work done start to finish? Just thinking if it would be feasible time wise as well.
    If you don't mind dropping me a pm, I'd really like to know a bit more about what you did here and all the ins and outs. Any and all build photos would really help, although I understand if you're not keen on sharing private photos etc.
    Thanks again for the post and giving me hope of breaking 200bhp with the Ecotec!!!
  13. Does the supressor have to be fitted to the alternator or is it just to cut down on the noise? If so any better pictures to where it is mounted?

    Also what length belt is used to keep the air con?
  14. think its just for noise i fitted one there as the alternator rear cover has one built in so i just put one back in its place
    this is the only pic i have of the suppressor you can see its just earthed to one of the mounting screws and then bolted to the +12v of the alternator the suppressor was a z22se one the one thats normally found at the rear of the engine block on the earth strap to coil pack

    with a 3.1" pulley im using a p5k 1453-1463
  15. Cool cheers totally forgot they have one built into the cover, should of known that I had some apart the other day :whistle:

    Thanks for belt info (y)
  16. no problem :)
    when i 1st got it all setup i put string round the pulleys then measured it with the string folded in half then just doubled the measurement went to the local motor factors and bought 1 above and 1 below the measurement they come in 10mm steps
    then after finding after 2-3 weeks of running the belt had bedded in and started to slip so went to the size smaller its not slipped since :)
  17. Cheers yeah I'm just being lazy :ROFLMAO:
  18. Hi Evo, what torque settings do you use for the bolts from the inlet manifold to the cylinder head?
  19. hey i used green Medium stud lock and 10nm only used the stud lock as when i 1st fitted the charger the 2 end bolts came loose :)
  20. Cheers. Read on cobaltss they torque it up to 22 nm, thought it was on the high side.
    • Funny Funny x 1