Fitting the EGR Cheater

vocky

Staff
I will be using brown wire for Pin A once the last batch have been sent out, so in a few weeks this will be the wiring colours to pin.

The reason for change is that it's a true negative supply, so I want to keep it the same colour as vauxhall use


EGR Cheater wiring colours

brown goes to pin A (0 volts)

yellow goes to pin B (output signal)

[pin C is not used anymore]

blue goes to pin D (ecu 5v)

red goes to pin E (trigger +12v from ecu)
 

luki244

Regular Member
Vocky, does the ECU cheater needs ground ? notsure.gif coz I dont know if I connect correct one of the brown wires from plug notsure.gif
 

vocky

Staff
there are two brown wires, one is direct to the chassis, the other is via the ecu and should not be connected

simply use a multi-meter and check the brown wire has 0.4 Ohms or less to the battery negative terminal
 

ranger

Member
If the code reader is correct your forum has just saved my over £200+ WHOO HOO
Now I've ordered a blanking plate from the dealers & have just one question before I order one of these EGV Cheaters
Is it a simple plug & play thing or do wires need to be soldered?
If it's the latter how easy it it as I'm the worst at DIY :oops:

Thanks Guys
Rob
 

vocky

Staff
you can ask for a plug in version if you are not too good with soldering, but I do recommend soldering as it's a better contact
 

ranger

Member
vocky said:
you can ask for a plug in version if you are not too good with soldering, but I do recommend soldering as it's a better contact
Plug in one would be good as you have not seen my DIY skills :D

Do I order as normal?
 
Firstly - thanks very much to Vocky, Bundevski and all the other bright sparks for working to fix this problem and posting their diagrams, instructions and experiences on here.

I really want to build Bundevski's EGR cheater (Well done to you!). It makes sense to have a completely solid-state circuit - no contact bounce or moving parts to wear out, faster switching speeds, etc... I have just one question about this, that someone on the forum may be able to help with. The answer should be beneficial to anyone browsing in the future too. My question is: Can any other transistors be used in place of the BC640?

The reason I'm asking, is that I can't get hold of a BC640 transistor and there are very few sources that list equivalents. Those that do, tend to disagree as to /which ones/ are equivalent. As far as I can tell it's just a general low-power, low-frequency PNP transistor, but I'm just wondering if any LP/LF PNP transistor would do (for instance, a 2N5401, BC556B, BC557C...) - none of the ones I can find are an exact equivalent of the BC640. The BC640 seems to be able to cope with Vce=80v, Ic=1000mA, P=800mW, and Hfe (beta/gain/whatever you want to call it) is somewhere in the region of 40-250. As far as I can tell from the circuit diagram, the most Q1 would ever have to cope with would be 12v and a handful of mA. I'd guess that any such transistor I chose would be able to cope with this, I'm just worried in case Hfe is critical. If I selected a different transistor, would the different gain mess up the circuit and stop it working? My electronics knowledge is a bit rusty so I don't really trust my working-out on this one.

Thanks everyone for all the hard work, and thanks in advance to anyone who can answer this. A range of suitable transistor operating parameters, (or even a couple of suitable alternative transistor part-numbers) might be really helpful to anyone wanting to build this circuit.
 
By the way, I should have also said, I've already tried the other non-Z22SE EGR cheater (with the relay) unsuccessfully on an X16SZR engine. I tried connecting up the pins in varying orders with no luck. It could have been duff components or messy soldering, but I think the problem probably lies in the fact that the ECU sends pulses to the EGR valve, and that a mechanical relay probably gets contact-bounce, arcs, or doesn't switch fast enough. I built my circuit using a sealed reed relay - I would have liked to have used a solid-state relay but could not find a source that would supply to private individuals. To protect the ECU from harm and interference I modified the circuit by fitting a protection diode across the relay so that when the contacts released, the back-emf wouldn't fry the ECU. I might remove this, doublecheck the circuit and try again at some point - as it could be duff and I guess the ECU has its own in-built protection anyway. If anyone ever got the relay version of the non-z22se circuit working, I'd still be interested in hearing about it.

When I get the chance, I will post photographs and stripboard layouts of any circuits I've tried, as they might help future (especially non-technical) visitors to the forum.
 

ognjen

Member
Is it posible that with the cheater i get the blanking plate ? That somebody buy me one and send cuz i cant find one to buy online ? i pay ofc
 

vocky

Staff
we can supply the blanking plate, they are £5 from the dealer and cost another £1 to send, so add £6 to the price
 

ognjen

Member
Is there a way to buy it without pay pal ? cuz no Montenegro on pay pal list :/ I would buy bouth plate and cheater
 

xtremem23

Member
Hi there everyone,

I know that this is not the correct place to be asking you guys this but i have a problem that is driving me round the bend with my astra 1.6 16v 2001 z16xe.
I have got the blanking gasket on,egr reprogrammed by vauzhall to bypass this bloody thing but still having all the known issues that relates to EGR valve malfunction.

If i disconnected the valve's harness connector the car will runs fine alothough it will put at light on in the dash.

Is it possible to havea cheater fitted the these engines to fool the the ecu in thinking that its getting a feedback from it,as i presume that it still has to get some sort of return voltage although it does not activate it.

Thanks

P.S. and if i'm totally in the wrong to even ask in here then,no probs...................
 
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