Suspected cam chain slipped

gsi2000

Member
Cams and valves from the top look ok and inline with each other. So hoping its just a new chain kit too and no bent or broken valves.
Anything i can do about the front guide hole?
 

gsi2000

Member
Just been out to look at it, the hole looks like something slots in it rather than being threaded so yeah completely stripped out.
 
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gsi2000

Member
Done car today, all went fine until it come to fitting crank pulley, i had bolted oil pump cover to the block and offered up the crank pulley, it wouldnt go on, no matter what i tried. so removed the oil pump cover and fitted crank pulley then put it on that way. i started tightening the bolts up and the bottom front bolt snapped the cover just around the bolt head.
gonna have to buy a new cover, but what is the best way to fit it and the crank pulley?
car starts and drives fine, but oil pressure light comes on at idle and p**ses out oil from around the bottom half of the oil pump cover, especially where it broke.
 

IDI AMIN

Senior Member
Not having much luck with your car, eh..

You obviously went too tight with the cover bolts you go to 10nm if you have a torque wrench available if not they are just a bit over hand tight, better to use a small ratchet like a 1/4 drive so you do not overdo it.

You should be able to pick up a cover at a scrapyard if you are lucky enough

The trick with the crank pulley is lining the notch with the woodruff key, maybe use a torch to see it is in position correctly as it is hard to see with the cover on.

I've damaged a woodruff key before cause it's not lined up right and ended up having to re-do the chains cause of that as i had forced the bolt on without being 100% the notch and key were lined up there is very little space to maneuver,
Because of that i always use a torch to see because i panic too much in case i damage another crank key. .
 

gsi2000

Member
over tightening the bolt is a strong possibility :(
Ive got a 2nd hand cover on ebay in my basket which im gonna buy tomorrow, its off a saab b207.
When i first attempted with the cover bolted on then offered the pulley the problem i had was the gear inside the oil cover wouldnt budge and slightly off from lining up the woodruff key. after alot of messing about i tried the other way, crank pulley and cover fitted at same time.
Any ideas on the oil pressure light? on idle its on, press accelerator it goes out until i idle again.
 

IDI AMIN

Senior Member
the gear inside the oil cover wouldnt budge
If you took the cover off the oil pump you could have put it back in wrong way round

Any ideas on the oil pressure light? on idle its on, press accelerator it goes out until i idle again.

Maybe oil is pumping when you accelerate

That is the bolts for the chain cover i mean and not the crank pulley bolt, you should check you have not damaged the crank key if you over done it with the crank bolt and this caused it to crack it could have been pressing against the crank key and caused the cover to break if this is what happened, rather than the chain cover bolts which is what i think you are meaning
 

gsi2000

Member
Yeah its the chain cover bolts. 10 bolts in total with 10mm head holding it on. Looking through wheel arch theres two bolts at bottom of pulley, one either side, the one on the right was the one that broke the cover
Really gutted all went fine until that part lol
Crank pulley bolt went on fine once i got the pulley on.
 

vocky

Staff
if you file the end of the woodruff key slot inside the crank pulley it will always fit okay. Just create a 45 degree edge between the slot and the outer edge of the crank pulley. I can take a photo if you need one (y)
 

gsi2000

Member
I think i know what you mean, if you already have a pic of it that would be great, dont want you putting yourself out too much m8.
2nd hand part is on its way so 2nd time lucky lol is the bearing inside the case meant to be stiff? i think as IDI AMIN stated above, if ive taken it apart i could have put it back in wrong way round. which is what i may have done as i cleaned it all out.
 

figo126

Senior Member
it should turn easy , I did the same thing stripped it to clean oil pump put it back and the plate would not sit right , and it will only go flat one way ,
 

gsi2000

Member
i noticed on mine it has a indent on one side, didnt think it was of anything important. new one is coming complete with gears so aslong as it spins freely it will be going straight on.
 

Binzoboy

Member
Im a newbie,few good tips on this thread as well. Vauxhalls from i passed mt test but only had V6s for last 12 year,got offered a astra 100 edition (2.2) 2 week ago for decent price so snapped it up.
 

gsi2000

Member
All ive had is vauxhalls, decent motors, gotta say this one was a bit daunting at first to work on but i can honestly say the z22se has been an enjoyable engine to work on :) great guys on here to help you out too if your ever stuck.
 

Binzoboy

Member
Defo gsi2000. Its needing few wee bits n bobs figo,the gear cables split at connection at selector,iv got a jubille clip round it the now for quick fix,lasted 300 miles so actually held up quite well lol,its missing half its front splitter,n it needs the gear shift repair kit,its a pic n mix wot gear u get lol,think this is why the plastic coupling snapped at selector on gear box. The car was actually on here few years ago, luggy1988 had it,done a top half engine rebuild when chain snapped. Im no sure how to bring up the thread n think iv hijacked this 1 enough lol soz gsi2000
 

Binzoboy

Member
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