Project Freeze My engine Off (SAAB B207R Supercharged)
- Thread starter evocarlos
- Start date
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- Tags
- b207r saab supercharged
fitted the wideband sensor and run the wiring into the car
fixed the pulled bolt on the heat shield new rubbers on the zorst
went to test the wideband and thought hmmm rich
yep its mega rich and i can't find the issue
the said FIC has not been received yet
milo
Senior Member
Could it be the mapping not right with the upgrades u done?
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
What have you added to the engine build that's different from before other than cams? Is that still on cold start or is it up to temp? If reved does it always return into the 10's
+1mm valves
double valve springs
cams
yes it is fine when 1st started then once walm it gets lumpy it was on 13.9 but after some time dropped to 10's
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
In theory them mods should make it run lean due to the extra airflow.
Have you wired the gauge into the ecu?
Ecu must be going into a safe mode and chucking more fuel in.
Have you wired the gauge into the ecu?
Ecu must be going into a safe mode and chucking more fuel in.
done a log with opcom on the ecu but im still none the wiser
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1MJZ7P8kotVVUpemi8IubAdTdi-bddUN6-6grnOAD_ow/edit?usp=sharing
milo
Senior Member
Getting frustrated with it?
dewismotorsport ive not wired in the narrow band output from the controler its still running on the factory sensors
i did go out and cut the plug off the t/b made it longer and fitted a different plug the wideband now reads 14.0
but i think the coolent temp sensor is shafted as it not putting the fans on till 98c
or the fact its in the return from the heater matrix now
need to find a way to run the main fan without relying on the coolent module and its errors
im thinking relaly form +12v to the actual fan + then triggered from the water pump controller was going to do it today but got p**sed off with trying to many diffrent things
i did go out and cut the plug off the t/b made it longer and fitted a different plug the wideband now reads 14.0
but i think the coolent temp sensor is shafted as it not putting the fans on till 98c
or the fact its in the return from the heater matrix now
need to find a way to run the main fan without relying on the coolent module and its errors
im thinking relaly form +12v to the actual fan + then triggered from the water pump controller was going to do it today but got p**sed off with trying to many diffrent things
milo
Senior Member
Always a good idea to just walk away when you've had enough.
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Ah now 14's are more like it for idle (14.7 is stoich) and mine flutters from low 14's into 15's as the lambda is doing its fuel trimming at idle.
The problem may well just be the cams and enlarged valves are making the ecu work outside of its set values table so it's defaulting and chucking more fuel in to keep it safe.
Ultimately it needs a remap though
The problem may well just be the cams and enlarged valves are making the ecu work outside of its set values table so it's defaulting and chucking more fuel in to keep it safe.
Ultimately it needs a remap though
thats good advice 
i,ll remeber that next time somone books the monday at cs and ive got to fit a sc i
got a new coolent sensor today but not fitted it yet im hoping onces its fitted i get more like 14.5 with the fluctuation of the fuel correction if i hold it at 2000 rpm its bang on 14.7 lol
the new plug on the t/b has made the difference one of the pins in the plug was tarnished has been for awhile taken me till now to do it
but its now got to learn the t/b values due to the battery being off again
thinking of tapping into the feed from the ecu for the coolent module to put the fan on
i,ll remeber that next time somone books the monday at cs and ive got to fit a sc ii guess a map would cure it
got a new coolent sensor today but not fitted it yet im hoping onces its fitted i get more like 14.5 with the fluctuation of the fuel correction if i hold it at 2000 rpm its bang on 14.7 lol
the new plug on the t/b has made the difference one of the pins in the plug was tarnished has been for awhile taken me till now to do it
but its now got to learn the t/b values due to the battery being off again
thinking of tapping into the feed from the ecu for the coolent module to put the fan on
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Glad it's running better, I wouldn't worry too much about idle AFR for now, as long as it runs as mapping with quickly sort the idle map out, if it's like aftermarket maps, they run a separate idle and cold start map, the idle map doesn't get taken over from the main map until after 1500rpm (well that's how my Omex 600 works). You not thought about ditching the module and just using a electronic fan switch like I've just bought?
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well i was a thought getting rid of the module
but i dont need the fan switch as the davies craig pump controler has its own output to turn the fan on 3* after the set point (set for 85c = 88c fans on)
my concern is the lamp on the dash i would not want it to be coming on due to there not being a module installed
looking at the wiring for the pre cooling module setup the 2 relays are fed from the ecu with a trigger pin57(bn/ye) & pin13(bn/wh) of the x71 ecu plug
but the triggers for the ecm are pin 15 (bn/gn) & pin 56 (bn/vt) thinking back the bn/vt is for the ac fan i had to add that cooler wire to the dash loom to get the climate control working
so that said im thinking of tapping into this wire that feeds the cooling module with the supply from the davies controller
it would need to be tested as i dont no how the ecm would respond to that kind of feed
relays
ecm
im also looking at fitting the new cts in the water flow from the pump pre heater matrix would be a simple drill and tap the thermostat housing
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dewismotorsport
Senior Member
My lamps been on since the Chargers been on but I'm sure it's the map not anything else, I'm going to remove the loom today and see what happens, I'll also try unplugging it from ecu, and possibly just run a blank dummy plug to ecu. Hopefully you can tap into that and it work fine.
milo
Senior Member
thats good advice
i guess a map would cure it
got a new coolent sensor today but not fitted it yet im hoping onces its fitted i get more like 14.5 with the fluctuation of the fuel correction if i hold it at 2000 rpm its bang on 14.7 lol
the new plug on the t/b has made the difference one of the pins in the plug was tarnished has been for awhile taken me till now to do it
but its now got to learn the t/b values due to the battery being off again
thinking of tapping into the feed from the ecu for the coolent module to put the fan on
Did u get it done in time yes
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Pods come out good but how on earth are you gonna read that whilest driving?