Help! Cylinder head swap problems :(

rabidh

Regular Member
Me and a friend just spent saturday trying to fit my ported head and new cams, but we got the old head off, took the cams off the new head in preparation for the new cams, and noticed that two of the valves weren't shutting properly. It seems the 'perfect'/'as new' head I got off ebay actually has 2 slightly bent valves, and after a quick check with paraffin several more that aren't a good seal :(

So... Does anyone know of a good, relatively cheap place that I can get some OEM valves from this week? Are there any uprated ones that don't cost much more? I'm also wondering whether I should invest in some stronger valve springs now (I'll have Stage 2 comp cams) - can anyone recommend any sensibly-priced ones?

Also I might have some lifters that are iffy - I don't fancy spending another £160 on a new set, so can anyone see a problem with swapping in some from the old cylinder head? While I had everything off I realised that while I have a new head bolt set, I don't have new bolts for the camshafts - is it going to be a problem to reuse the old ones?

Looking at the most bent valve, it is about 8 thou out... So it's not huge... could that have damaged the valve guide?

thanks,
 

Daz

Former Staff
Senior Member
If the head need refurbing try motorcast components...use them in work a good job and cheap too

Motorcast Components Ltd, Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK

Experts in reconditioning engine cylinder heads
 

vocky

Staff
could be the head has been sat on a bench thus only bending the valves slightly

waisted stem valves are £10 each from sivalves.com, you need to ask for standard size valves

I would also fit double valve springs, something I regret not doing

as for the lifters, try the others they might be fine

cam bolts are £5 for the pair
 

edbutler

Regular Member
Can you not just use the ones from the old head you took off?!

As youve got cams in though, definitely go for dual springs though and crank that rev-limiter up :)
 

rabidh

Regular Member
Thanks guys, Any idea where I can get the dual springs and valves from in the UK?
I'm a bit fed up with customs - Ideally I'd want to get the valves/springs by next weekend so I can get my car back on the road, and when I got Karo's order shipping took about 2 weeks after customs/parcel force cocked it up :(

I didn't really want to touch the valves in my old head - the Vec is a bit clattery and I have a feeling that the chain snapped and was replaced before I got it, so probably I'll want to swap the whole old VX220 head over to that at some point...
 

rabidh

Regular Member
Good to know, they did look quite hefty... I might do it just for piece of mind though. The inlet cam bolt took some serious force using metre-long bars to get off...
 

vocky

Staff
regal can get waisted stem valves - they were £15 each !

double valve springs - the usual suspects should be able to supply them [courtenays / tms / regal]
 

alanoo

Senior Member
alanoo said:
JohnnyN said:
The cam bolts are a MUST. They are stretch bolts and are not to be used twice.


Nop, the head bolts are, the cam bolts no ;)


Erm, I must correct that

The 2 big cams pulleys bolts ARE to change, I was thinking about the cams bearing covers bolts (2*10 of them) which are not
 

Daz

Former Staff
Senior Member
alanoo said:
JohnnyN said:
The cam bolts are a MUST. They are stretch bolts and are not to be used twice.


Nop, the head bolts are, the cam bolts no ;)

The cam shaft sproket reatining bolts are a use once item....
 

helenb

Member
hello there, i have been told to ask you. when you replace the head, and cams. do you have to re-torque the head after a few miles. it does not say so in the haynes manual. can anyone help. kev does not want to re-place the head again... too much work and money.
 

MikeS

Former Staff
Senior Member
you need new head bolts but if you get a decent head gasket set they usually come with them along with valve stem seals, cam shaft seals, cam cover seal, head gasket, zaust and inlet manifold gasket

for the head bolts you need to tighten them in a sequence using specific toque as you go around and around, the haynes manual should show the torque settings needed

you dont need to check them after a few weeks as they would already start to stretch and bed in, warning signs are like loss of coolant, mixing of coolant and oil, and leaks around the head gasket, you start messing with them then you might as well start again from scratch
 

helenb

Member
cheers for that. i have been very kind to kev today. he has had a day off from the car! today i recieved the stickers i ordered. so they will go on the car tommorrow. in the week i have got to take it for a mot, as it ran out 2 weeks ago. does anyone know? do you have to let the insurance company know, you are taking the car for an mot, when it has run out? i have never driven a car without a mot. we always go 2 weeks inadvance, so it gives you a chance to get work done? any help would be apreciated helen.
 

MikeS

Former Staff
Senior Member
make sure you have an appointment

depends on the officer that pulls you over as technically your driving illegally, if your car hasnt a mot then it isnt really insured, a lot of road traffic pigs will use common sense if they pull you over on the way to a mot test but you need to show that you made a prior arrangement and that your going to the mot garage and back, a lot of people think they can carry on driving their car after it has expired even though they are several days away from the mot appointment

you must only use the car to get to the garage, your taking a big big chance if you have a smack as your insurance company will refuse to pay out and the 3rd party's insurance will sue you to recover costs

some garages have trade plates and you could ask then to pick it up for you and mot it

and if the car fails the mot it is always worth getting the garage to do the work and leave the car there until it is done and passed rather than driving it back home and elsewhere whilst the car aint insured
 
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