Dave's Astra G with Car PC
- Thread starter Dave One
- Start date
Dave One
Regular Member
Auto Headlights Modification
After fitting the Auto Headlights Unit at the weekend I noticed a problem (which I eluded to in my last post). As the three Auto Headlights Unit outputs, of which only two are used, share the same bus bar some unwanted current flow was created to provide dash illumination when the Total Closure sidelight delay was on. This meant the audible warning occured if you opened the door whilst in this condition (indicated in the diagram below with the red line). The temporary remedy for this was to add a diode to act as a DC block and prevent this 'back voltage'.
I have some other plans to deal with this far more eloquently.
Irmscher Carbon Gear Knob
And this turned up Tuesday too
I can't tell you how much I have wanted one of these little beauty's (thanks TINMYAMAUNG).
After fitting the Auto Headlights Unit at the weekend I noticed a problem (which I eluded to in my last post). As the three Auto Headlights Unit outputs, of which only two are used, share the same bus bar some unwanted current flow was created to provide dash illumination when the Total Closure sidelight delay was on. This meant the audible warning occured if you opened the door whilst in this condition (indicated in the diagram below with the red line). The temporary remedy for this was to add a diode to act as a DC block and prevent this 'back voltage'.
I have some other plans to deal with this far more eloquently.
Irmscher Carbon Gear Knob
And this turned up Tuesday too
I can't tell you how much I have wanted one of these little beauty's (thanks TINMYAMAUNG)
.
Dave One
Regular Member
Car PC Power and Switching Wiring Diagram
I've had a few requests regarding the power and switching for my Car PC and feel you're all ready for this little beauty.
The Car PC is usually set to ignition following which means start up and shut down sequences are started with the turn of the ignition key (hard off time can be selected with jumpers on the PSU - mines off after 45 seconds and hard off after two hours). My additional requirements were:
Most of the circuitry is behind the pillar pod (post 61).
Please feel free to comment or ask questions.
I've had a few requests regarding the power and switching for my Car PC and feel you're all ready for this little beauty
.
The Car PC is usually set to ignition following which means start up and shut down sequences are started with the turn of the ignition key (hard off time can be selected with jumpers on the PSU - mines off after 45 seconds and hard off after two hours). My additional requirements were:
- Permanent power (i.e. no key required - maintenance setting for on drive)
- Remote Car PC start from Key Fob
- Refuel 'push and forget' switch (once pressed will be on for 4 and a half minutes, time to refuel and pay, then revert to ignition selection - but not if PC isn't already on)
- Dash LEDs to show status
Most of the circuitry is behind the pillar pod (post 61).
Please feel free to comment or ask questions
.
Dave One
Regular Member
Auto Headlights Unit Cont'd
The Auto Headlights Unit (ALU) had been in for just over a week and required to be re-employed. I hadn't wired up the handbrake feature which operates, or more to the point de-activates, a separate relay. I think this created a surge to my instrument binnacle and took out the speedometer, tachometer, etc.
The permanent live is shared between two relays, one that operates the headlights and the other that operates the sidelights, number plate light and instrument illumination. When the handbrake operates the ALU assumes you are 'parked up' and disables the headlights - this can be overruled by the actual switch. As the handbrake feature wasn’t wired up both relays kicked in straight away – I never park with my handbrake on anyway......
The photo below shows a basic schematic of the device and its components.
My initial thought was to just leave it in the loft for a while, but we all know that wasn’t really going to happen. The next thought was to have an LED added to my instrument binnacle, the likes of which I have already done for my Car PC ‘permanent live on’. So it was decided to add to the Xenon Leveling Warning indicator, which would light white with Xenon fault (once Xenon Leveler is fitted) and blue when the ambient light level requires lighting. I also required that LED was not on if the headlights were on, so added an external relay to hijack the handbrake feature. I also used a switched earth – my preferred option when running cables around the car...
This is how the circuit will end up (if I decide to extinguish the blue LED). For now the circuit is as this expect the headlight X2 connector pin 78/79 is connected to the relay pin 86, meaning the earth cannot be applied to recreate the handbrake feature.
A few pics of the ALU undergoing modification.
A photo with the dash light with the cruise control on.
A photo with the dash light on to remind me to switch on my headlights (sensor covered to simulate low ambient light).
R32 Needles fitted
I also finally got around to fitting my R32 needles. The pics aren't very good but show them with the dash illumination on and off.
The Auto Headlights Unit (ALU) had been in for just over a week and required to be re-employed. I hadn't wired up the handbrake feature which operates, or more to the point de-activates, a separate relay. I think this created a surge to my instrument binnacle and took out the speedometer, tachometer, etc.
The permanent live is shared between two relays, one that operates the headlights and the other that operates the sidelights, number plate light and instrument illumination. When the handbrake operates the ALU assumes you are 'parked up' and disables the headlights - this can be overruled by the actual switch. As the handbrake feature wasn’t wired up both relays kicked in straight away – I never park with my handbrake on anyway......
The photo below shows a basic schematic of the device and its components.
My initial thought was to just leave it in the loft for a while, but we all know that wasn’t really going to happen. The next thought was to have an LED added to my instrument binnacle, the likes of which I have already done for my Car PC ‘permanent live on’. So it was decided to add to the Xenon Leveling Warning indicator, which would light white with Xenon fault (once Xenon Leveler is fitted) and blue when the ambient light level requires lighting. I also required that LED was not on if the headlights were on, so added an external relay to hijack the handbrake feature. I also used a switched earth – my preferred option when running cables around the car...
This is how the circuit will end up (if I decide to extinguish the blue LED). For now the circuit is as this expect the headlight X2 connector pin 78/79 is connected to the relay pin 86, meaning the earth cannot be applied to recreate the handbrake feature.
A few pics of the ALU undergoing modification
.
A photo with the dash light with the cruise control on.
A photo with the dash light on to remind me to switch on my headlights (sensor covered to simulate low ambient light).
R32 Needles fitted
I also finally got around to fitting my R32 needles. The pics aren't very good but show them with the dash illumination on and off.
Dave One
Regular Member
Thanks. I'm planning on phase 2 which will create a better and more constant illumination. I'm also thinking some other features....
Dave One
Regular Member
Auto Headlights Unit Cont'd Again...
The Auto Headlights Unit (ALU) has recently been modified and I commented about how cool the blue LED looked and how I’d like to keep it, so I decided to change my requirements. The new requirements consisted of:
An indication that the ambient light level was sufficiently low to use lighting.
A change in indication to identify dipped headlights were in operation, in essence responding to the low light warning. (note – I wanted this to be a dipped headlight trigger, not sidelights!)
The colour for the indication LEDs were to blend in with current lighting scheme.
The wiring diagram was quickly amended on the evening of last update to meet the new requirements and is as follows.
Once again, the sensor was tricked into activation by masking the light to it..... The white low level warning indicator LED illuminates.
The dipped headlights are switched on react to the low level warning indication, and change the white low level warning indicator LED to blue, matching the cruise control and Car PC on instrument cluster indication LEDs.
When the Xenon leveling unit is fully installed, this will illuminate Red........
Needless to say, I'm extremely happy with the result.
The Auto Headlights Unit (ALU) has recently been modified and I commented about how cool the blue LED looked and how I’d like to keep it, so I decided to change my requirements. The new requirements consisted of:
An indication that the ambient light level was sufficiently low to use lighting.
A change in indication to identify dipped headlights were in operation, in essence responding to the low light warning. (note – I wanted this to be a dipped headlight trigger, not sidelights!)
The colour for the indication LEDs were to blend in with current lighting scheme.
The wiring diagram was quickly amended on the evening of last update to meet the new requirements and is as follows.
Once again, the sensor was tricked into activation by masking the light to it..... The white low level warning indicator LED illuminates.
The dipped headlights are switched on react to the low level warning indication, and change the white low level warning indicator LED to blue, matching the cruise control and Car PC on instrument cluster indication LEDs.
When the Xenon leveling unit is fully installed, this will illuminate Red........
Needless to say, I'm extremely happy with the result
.
Dave One
Regular Member
Please note, my recent Instrument Binnacle PCB change means the mileage requires adjusting to the correct amount. Fortunately my recent dash illumination work means I have pics recording the mileage just before the PCB failure, and pics of the new mileage reading when fitted, thus allowing me to accurately update to the correct value (of the top of my head its just over 206000 miles )......
)......
Dave One
Regular Member
Matt
Administrator
That's fantastic! My old SXI was really reliable as well. Have seen some threads over on AOC where one was stripped after 140,000 miles I think and it was clean as a whistle inside.Yep
Sent using Tapatalk 2
Dave One
Regular Member
Dave One
Regular Member
VXR Side Repeater and Surrounds Mod
Ever since seeing Glacious's Astra Mk5 VXR Side Repeater and Surrounds mod I have been keen to have a go myself. I wasn't keen on the idea of relocating various parts and drilling new holes in order to fit the VXR Side Repeater and Surrounds, so needed to get 'hacking and bashing' .
First of all treat yourself to a pair of Mk5 Side Repeaters to rob the lens from...
Next up is a pair of Mk4 Side Repeaters to rob the bulb holder part from, noting the bias to offset the VXR Side Repeater and Surrounds as far rearwards as possible in an attempt to stay clear of the wheel arch profiling...
The bulb holders were masked up to set them in with araldite...
Once completely sealed the araldite was painted black to blend in...
The Mk5 lenses were smoked with tint spray...
The last stage of the modification was to glue the smoked Mk5 lenses to the VXR Side Repeater Surround.
Now for the part that makes it all worthwhile, the fitment...
Ever since seeing Glacious's Astra Mk5 VXR Side Repeater and Surrounds mod I have been keen to have a go myself
. I wasn't keen on the idea of relocating various parts and drilling new holes in order to fit the VXR Side Repeater and Surrounds, so needed to get 'hacking and bashing' .First of all treat yourself to a pair of Mk5 Side Repeaters to rob the lens from...
Next up is a pair of Mk4 Side Repeaters to rob the bulb holder part from, noting the bias to offset the VXR Side Repeater and Surrounds as far rearwards as possible in an attempt to stay clear of the wheel arch profiling...
The bulb holders were masked up to set them in with araldite...
Once completely sealed the araldite was painted black to blend in...
The Mk5 lenses were smoked with tint spray...
The last stage of the modification was to glue the smoked Mk5 lenses to the VXR Side Repeater Surround.
Now for the part that makes it all worthwhile, the fitment
...
Dave One
Regular Member
Cheers Matt.
A pic taken 10 minutes ago...
Bear in mind I had to try and catch it at the right time, so may not be the optimum :/
Dave One
Regular Member
Audio Upgrade Complete
After months of stop/starting, I have finally completed my audio upgrade. Essentially I have removed the requirement for the head unit and go straight from my Car PC to the Amp, then speakers. The audio upgrade components consist of:
Creative USB Sound Blaster X-Fi 5.1 Surround External Soundcard
JBL GT5-A604 4ch Amp
JBL GT5-650C Front Components
JBL GT5-12 12" Subwoofer
The first requirement was to build the false boot wall to house the Subwoofer and hide the Amplifier/USB soundcard. For this I created a cardboard template of the boot area for the false wall and transferred to template onto 19mm MDF. Next I cut the 298mm hole for the 12" subwoofer and finally used 90mm wide batons to support the wall and help enclose it.
The predicted intrusion into the boot area...
A little black carpet added...
Trail fit...
The door panels were removed and the old front speakers/tweeters removed... (not many pics during this phase - sorry)
The new JBL GT5-650C Front Components were fitted. I added decent speaker cable and routed them through the door connector (X3 and X4) - and what a job that was!...
With the front components fitted I was keen to get the subwoofer and amplifier fitted too...
The output from the Creative USB Sound Blaster X-Fi 5.1 Surround External Soundcard is set-up as 5.1, then the rear and centre speakers are removed from the set-up, front speakers identified as not full range so the bass can be re-directed to the subwoofer - Easy. The soundcard subwoofer output is split in order to bridge two of the amp channels.
The last phase was attaching two brackets to ensure the already tight fitting false boot wall could fall over. Trust me, this is going nowhere now as the fit is incredibly tight!
The final product...
And the Car PC on the other side...
All-in-all I'm happy with the outcome - and the sound is far better.
After months of stop/starting, I have finally completed my audio upgrade. Essentially I have removed the requirement for the head unit and go straight from my Car PC to the Amp, then speakers. The audio upgrade components consist of:
Creative USB Sound Blaster X-Fi 5.1 Surround External Soundcard
JBL GT5-A604 4ch Amp
JBL GT5-650C Front Components
JBL GT5-12 12" Subwoofer
The first requirement was to build the false boot wall to house the Subwoofer and hide the Amplifier/USB soundcard. For this I created a cardboard template of the boot area for the false wall and transferred to template onto 19mm MDF. Next I cut the 298mm hole for the 12" subwoofer and finally used 90mm wide batons to support the wall and help enclose it.
The predicted intrusion into the boot area...
A little black carpet added...
Trail fit...
The door panels were removed and the old front speakers/tweeters removed... (not many pics during this phase - sorry
)
The new JBL GT5-650C Front Components were fitted. I added decent speaker cable and routed them through the door connector (X3 and X4) - and what a job that was!...
With the front components fitted I was keen to get the subwoofer and amplifier fitted too...
The output from the Creative USB Sound Blaster X-Fi 5.1 Surround External Soundcard is set-up as 5.1, then the rear and centre speakers are removed from the set-up, front speakers identified as not full range so the bass can be re-directed to the subwoofer - Easy
. The soundcard subwoofer output is split in order to bridge two of the amp channels.The last phase was attaching two brackets to ensure the already tight fitting false boot wall could fall over. Trust me, this is going nowhere now as the fit is incredibly tight!
The final product
...
And the Car PC on the other side...
All-in-all I'm happy with the outcome - and the sound is far better
.
Dave One
Regular Member
Unfortunately it's a trade-off between performance and practicality
. I totally agree a bass box would be better but......... That said, its much better than OEM .Also, me being picky, that crease in the fabric on the top of the sub box would do my head in
You can barely see it tbh. I'm thinking version 2 already but I really needed to get the ICE in the car rather than it sitting in the loft.
Dave One
Regular Member
it should work fine but would be better in a sealed box it needs a super duper fiberglass backing to match the boot carpet then mold the box to it
kind of like this but smaller
You've got me thinking now. I might skip version 2 and head straight for version 3
.
