Don't you think I have tried.. Patrick needs to stop focusing on the position woodruff key and focus on the timing marks. The timing marks is all that matters here.
Now Patrick I need you to read and think about this carefully.
all these questions I'm asking you now are before you got your new kit back to your original problem.
Going back to when you first had a noise in your car. Your previous posts suggest that you removed the old tensioner from your car to clean it to see if that stopped the noise.
What I need to know is after you removed the OLD tensioner and refitted it (your posts suggest you refitted it as you had problems knowing if it was in an active or unactive state) did you crank the car over at all?
I know you say you zip tied the chain to the top sprockets when you removed it but seeing your car had an old chain traveled many miles and had broken guide rails it would have been stretched. Zip tying the chain to the top sprockets will not stop the Chain from jumping a few teeth on the crank sprocket as that's where the slack would go having a missing rail and now a missing tensioner.
If when you removed the old tensioner if the slack was sitting on the intake side (where it most likely was) and you removed the tension bolt the chain will jump that slack from the intake side to below the the crank sprocket. When you refitted the old tensioner it then moves that slack to the exhaust side without you noticing as all your seeing is the chain on top fixed to the cam sprokets. At this point if you started or cranked the car over you most likely kissed a valve with the piston.
Before we go any further I need to have this clarified as there is no point fitting the new kit again (as you already did and it was lined up correctly but you had limited compression)
