Are my cams in sync

patricks

vocky said:
lets lower the banter and concentrate on fixing his engine 🙂

Thanks. The more i think about it the more i think i have done a valve in. Cylinder 3 has zero compression i find it hard to attribute a jumped chain or a misaligned cam to cause zero compression. Prob has to be bent valve🙁

ZippyZafira

if you only lost compression in only 1 cylinder its not generally from pistons hitting the cylinders as cylinder number 2 and 3 would have lost compression.. there are other reasons as to why but you haven't answered any of the questions asked to eliminate this

patricks

No im down in all cylinders 🙁. Old tenioner was reinserted and activated - i could see it released in the head. Engine not started but cranked by hand - the old chain was still tight in most parts of its revolution it didnt sag anywhere it was a tad loose in one spot maybe 5-7mm of play was the worst it got.

ZippyZafira

If you have only cranked it by hand it will be fine
Chances are your head is fine..

You need to just place the timing back on as instructed following the marks on the chains and cogs (nothing else) lacking compression can be due to the car sitting and lack of oil pressure or gummed up lifters

patricks

Am starting again. Not sure how to determine TDC now that everything is obviously not at factory specs. Piston 4 seems to stay at the top of its stroke for maybe 20 degrees of rotation of the crank. Do i assume TDC is as soon as piston reaches its top point, in the middle or when it starts to go down from top point???

vocky

TDC is not critical, it is a guide to prove whereabouts the block is in regards to the camshaft timing.

So as long as the pistons 1 and 4 are near the top of there travel (tdc) then you can continue and ensure the camshafts are roughly in the correct position on cylinder 4 (10 and 2).

Then you move over to the coloured links on the chain and the sprocket marking to accurately set the timing.

Therefore there are really two steps in setting the timing, setting the rough timing and then making it spot on (y)

ZippyZafira

As vocky said. It does not matter and that movement is normal.
The location is a GUIDE as is the woodruff key location to make things easier. The cams will be sprung shut if your in that correct area as soon as you remove the chain. Cylinder 4 exhaust node 2am intake node 10pm. Then just line up all the coloured links on chain to dots.
Always a good idea to recheck once everything is tightened and rotate the crank a full 2 rotations by hand. If the spark plugs are in it will be tight then easy then tight again as the car will be under compression. If it's a struggle remove the plugs
If at any point it feels like it jams or hits stop what your doing and check your marks.

Then once back together you need to determine spark.

patricks

@[deleted] and anyone else interested.....

Think ive found the problem - when looking superficially - cam lobes look fine maybe a little off at TDC but nothing major - to determine when the piston was at the top of its travel i used a tool with markers (a knitting needle, dont ask, if find it relaxing) and the crank pulley mark.

However a pic from the other end of engine shows a VERY different story. Note the holes were the bolts on the cam locking tool would otherwise go......i think this is the problem.....what do u guys think???............i think i SHOULD NEVER have attempted this without it...........i could have checked alignment before i put the hole thing back together if i had the tool. Do u guys think my valves are likely to be OK ??? I put my endoscope dont the spark plug hole and didnt see anything amiss.....

ZippyZafira

To me it just looks like the needle is at different angles

If there is a variance it would be from lack of bearing clearance meaning you have spun a crank bearing but I find that very unlikely. You would know if you spun a crank bearing and oveled out the conrod.

I think your over complicating a simple process

patricks

The needle wasnt moved - i went from one end of the engine to the other......open up the pics proper and u will see what im talking about......the hole for the intake sprocket and the hole for the exhaust sprocket.........

ZippyZafira

Sorry I thought you were trying to show different piston heights between 1 and 4

vocky

from your latest photos I see very little wrong, I think you need to confirm where the crank sprocket is. So you will need to remove the lower timing casing / oil pump assembly.

I still think that has jumped a tooth.

patricks

Yep. That's a job for after work on Saturday methinks :unsure:

patricks

@[deleted] Hey timing case is off - i took these pics - not sure what info u can gather from it - is there anything i should do that will help u problem solve this??? Otherwise ill proceed to time everything up again. I tried to get the links to align but that was going to take forever - so i gave up.

Double checked all rockers individually for slack with cams lobe facing up - no clearance on any of them. Endoscope down the spark plug holes - nothing amiss there. Really hoping for no bent valves.....so far so good......

vocky

the only way to 100% be sure the timing is correct is to remove the chain and re-align the coloured links (y)

ZippyZafira

Yesterday's fun..
New timing
New balance
New water pump
New head gasket
New oil pressure switch
New spark plugs
New temp sensor
Couple hours and she's all good

Took a few images of the timing location.

patricks

vocky said:
the only way to 100% be sure the timing is correct is to remove the chain and re-align the coloured links (y)

@[deleted] here is my chain removed and timed all over again - got to say ur way of doing the chain is much easier everthing just slots into place. I rotated the crank twice already and nothing amiss....i made sure there was no slack in chain around the crank sprocket this time. One thing i did notice last time i aligned my timing marks was that my crank rotated backwards - i noted this on one of my earliest posts in this thread maybe that's when the chain jumped??? Dunno.....

The last image is a pic is of cams after rotating he crank twice. The pic before it is of the cams after aligning all the links and no rotation of crank....

vocky

All looks okay, so does it run ?

patricks

@[deleted] thanks for asking, apparently it does start, but i don't know yet, i say apparently cos after an unsuccessfully attempt to start this morning - in total despair - i called for a tow to a local auto electrician. He just called me now to say my car is ready - apparently it was flooded and needed a new pulley belt.......i was going to change the belt it was a tad cracked but i think that's just their way of making a dollar cause it did me fine for 455,000km lol. Anyway all up im only 550$ AUD out of pocket - compared to $2400 that holden would have charged - and they would have put in the old style tensioner too....

Can't thank u enuff for ur help over the last week or so. If ur ever in Sydney - ur welcome to use my Astra to get around in anytime...its no throttle bodied vx220 but it will take u places🙂

@[deleted] No hard feelings mate. Keep up the good work🙂

Dave_Gilbert

Glad its finally fixed.

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