Marty's Z22SE Rebuild

Marty64

Today, i removed old engine and put new in place.
But, now when i turn the rear tyres: it drives the gearbox but it not drives the engine 🙁 Like if i was in neutral.
I tried before fiting new engine to turn wheels in neutral gear position and seen that shaft gearbox turning : that's was strange ? but decided to continue.
All in place, I tried to push clutch pedal but same problem.
.
I have a TTV flywheel, do you think it is thinner than OEM and it cause gearbox turning into the void ?

Pics of my old and new clutch+flywheel:

Marty64

Today, i removed old engine and put new in place.
But, now when i turn the rear wheels: it drives the gearbox but it not drives the engine 🙁 Like if i was in neutral.
I tried before fiting new engine to turn wheels in neutral gear position and seen that shaft gearbox turning : that's was strange ? but decided to continue.
When all in place, I tried to push clutch pedal but same problem.
Also, now I can shift gears without depressing the clutch.
Checked brake fluid: ok.
Before removing engine, i notice you that 5th gear was engaged.
I have a TTV flywheel, do you think it is thinner than OEM and it cause gearbox turning into the void ?
Or broken part somewhere ?

Pics of my old and new clutch+flywheel:

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vocky

it should only turn the engine if the gearbox is in a gear, even then you need two people to turn both wheels at the same time or nothing will happen.

Marty64

Yes, that's my problem Vocky, i put a gear on gearbox but wheel not turning engine !
It's not like a FWD car : in gear tyres can't move ?
I was alone. Turning left rear tyre in direction, and the left rear turning in opposite. Will try with someone.
But why i can shift gear without pushing clutch pedal ?

My clutch housing before fitting new engine, if you see anything wrong:

Marty64

Any idea before i remove for the second time the engine tomorrow ?

vocky

If you are on your own then that is exactly what happens, you need to turn both wheels in the same direction to create motion.
Try that before removing the engine, I cannot see anything obviously wrong

vocky

Remove that precat 🙂

dewismotorsport

You have a open diff I assume so turning one side won't do anything as vocky says. And I agree smash that pre cat out

Marty64

I removed engine again today to compare thickness between oem and ttv flywheel. All looks good, just 2mm difference.
With a gear engage, I tried to turn wheels while blocking gearbox shaft : in my surprise, shaft don't turn and the wheel turn anyway !
It explain why wheels turn even with engine and gear engage.
Like as you said, suerly due to the diff.

I'm still looking for alloy coolant pipe on the head cylinder with banjo bolt and the bolt next to this banjo.

And for pre cat, it's planned 😉 : 3" Tullet system on the way, but have to wait 5 weeks :banghead:

Marty64

Found a place under intake manifold to put the electric water pump:

Where i can connect my relay for the electric pump ? Does red wires of the starter are good to ?
Intake manifold + phenolic spacer and 2.5 bar tmap sensor modification:

120 A Alternator housing modification:

Alternator with spacers:

Cutting wall compartment to screw harrop's bolts:

Took the opportunity to make a bracket for the oil jauge:

Harrop in place : :love:

Bosch 650cc with spacers:

Ev1 injectors harness:

vocky

you can use the red wire terminal on the starter motor for the feed for your CC relay, but remember to fit a fused relay or in-line fuse.

ps: you have the wrong oil seal on your oil filter housing lid (green seal in your photos), it should be inside the housing, not between the lid and housing.

Marty64

With spark springs mod:

Secondary coolant tank:

While wiring work:

Ecu relocate and harness finished:

Made a plate for the exhaust cam side:

Upload map in new ecu's obdtuner firmware:

Marty64

First engine fire : waouwwwwwww :LOL:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuRQeJwG5bM

And few senodes after : engine broken :cry:
Eratic iddle after few secondes and now blocked...

Pfffffff...........
Had to remove it and put the old and will do a stage 2 in waiting.

evocarlos

that dont sound good :S especially the bit where it stopped dead

did you prime the oil system 1st to make sure it was all working and did you put oil in?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhQiU9K920A

KevinH

Nearly sounds like a diesel ! Are you sure the timing chain tensioner was activated correctly?

Marty64

evocarlos said:
that dont sound good :confused: especially the bit where it stopped dead

did you prime the oil system 1st to make sure it was all working and did you put oil in?

Yes, before runing engine, i turned ignition on without cam cover and without sparks. Waiting to the oil comes and oil comes on the chain with some splash.
Timing chain tensioner activated before puting it in block

I'm suspecting a defect in one rear bearing balance shaft:
To block the oil ways I have push it one too deep: 11mm instead 7.5mm.
May this cause an oil pressure problem in block ?

evocarlos

it would lower the oil pressure considerably at a guess if the oil way on the bearing was open to the inside of the block and not blocked off by the bearing

vocky

Just re-read your thread and I think the VW valve collets you purchased may be the issue 🙁

Hopefully the pistons will be okay, I expect a valve has dropped - mine did a similar thing, but the valve snapped in half.

vocky

the bearings being too far in won't kill the oil pressure, it will be much less and you should fit some rear balancer bearing sleeves to fix that issue.

http://www.levelzeromotorsports.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=51

Marty64

I opened the engine and found this:

Is this normal the black deposit in exhaust side ?

Unbolt conrod cap and found this on crankshaft bearing 1:
Do i have to machining the crankshaft or it's better to buy a new crankshaft/bearings ?

And little black deposit on pistons:
You can see a red overheating line on cyl. 1:

And a piston ring mark along cylinder bore:
Do i have to rebore it and keep my wiseco piston with bigger piston ring? I'm rebored yet at 86.5mm

Oil control ring in bad condition, what could have caused this, piston rings gap too big ?:

I think all valves are good:

Other 3 cylinders / piston rings / bore / bearings looks good
What did you recommend guys now to repair this block ?

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