Marty's Z22SE Rebuild

vocky

Bearing is low oil pressure, bore is weird.
My advice would be another block, crank and pistons rings on the bad piston.

I probably have a brand new piston set of 86.5mm wiseco rings.

Might have an oil hose adaptor, but they are quite rare.

vocky

Bore damage is probably caused by a bent oil ring during installation

IDI_AMIN

That's a shame with what's happened there.
We can all see there is some top quality work going on, and probably quite expensive also.
I know myself it can be tricky putting they pistons in with new rings on , even with the piston ring compressor, i broke one of the rings because it was not quite positioned correctly, and i think i also tried to stretch the middle ring over the top ring after putting that on first as well. So that was 2 single piston sets i had to buy extra, luckily they were not expensive ones i got.
Could you not just replace the oil ring rails, as the compression rings do not look damaged? They are tricky buggers also cause the do not sit as tight as the compression rings and can slip out of position easier

Marty64

vocky said:
Bearing is low oil pressure, bore is weird.
My advice would be another block, crank and pistons rings on the bad piston.

I probably have a brand new piston set of 86.5mm wiseco rings.

Might have an oil hose adaptor, but they are quite rare.

Thank's
I problably will do this.
Have to found a new bottom block with crankshaft, rebore it, one set conrod bearings and one set of piston rings.
Like that i could do again balance shaft oil ways blocking bearings.

PM me Vocky for the piston rings set and oil adaptor.

Marty64

Do i need a new head gasket or i can re-use my cometic gasket ?

vocky

I use the exact same piston ring compressor, you need to ensure that the compressor is flat to the block and that you cannot see down the bore at any point around the outside of it. You can simply push the compressor so it's central and use gentle but firm 'taps' from a hammer handle to fit the pistons.

vocky

Marty64 said:
Do i need a new head gasket or i can re-use my cometic gasket ?

depends if it has melted or not.

PM sent

evocarlos

I never used a hammer stale on mine I just pushed the pistons down with two thumbs with a rocking motion I never felt happy about tapping them in

OAKMERE

You can't apply too much oil when inserting the Pistons.

vocky

I always put plenty of engine oil on the pistons and also cover the entire bores with oil prior to installing the pistons, messy but it works.

OAKMERE

The engine builder near me pumps oil onto the piston and block when inserting Pistons.

Marty64

In waiting parts, i think a traction control will be necessary for a secure driving with the futur horses :sneaky:

Racelogic traction control with digital adjuster, abs signal filters, full throttle shift and lunch control options:

Wiring abs signals:

Traction control unit into dash:

Also, a wideband sensor with gauge to use with obdtuner:

Don't have heater in car, so decided to make a special plate for a PLX DM6 gauge and digital adjuster traction control:

Need a carbon sheet to mask alloy plate, and will be ok !

Marty64

Removing OEM exhaust in waiting for Tullet system:

Some work on alloy ignition cover plate:

Marty64

Before rebuild new engine again, i prefered to check for the waterproofing of the valves.
Though they were machined, half of inlet valves are leaking :banghead:
Exhaust valves are all well waterproof.
when is that problems will end? :mad:🙁

Dave_Gilbert

Ohhh dear. 🙁

evocarlos

mine did that on the inlet side i had to go back to the machine shop and get some diamond grinding paste as the stainless valves were so hard

Marty64

Some good news: Full 3" exhaust system arrived 2 weeks earlier than expected !

Marty64

Some (bad) news:

Second build done.
Received another Z22SE block with 86.5mm rebore done, another crankshaft, new conrod bearings, new piston rings and new head gasket.
Ask at same time at my machine shop to check my comp cams as they are second hand.
Hand grinding the 8 intake valves.
Plus heater elbow for the 4-1 tullet manifold and some fire gum to seal tullet's parts.

When i have start the new engine, it run much better without white smoke than last one .
But after few minutes : it broke again. Not open it yet but i think it's the same problem as last.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vpm3GyRuayg

I'm really disapointed and don't know what to do with this F.....G engine :mad:

Marty64

I plan to stop the stage 4 project. Past too much time/money right now and don't want to loose some fun this summer.
So i decided to put my OE engine with the harrop SC.
All working well, i have change rev limiter to 5800tr/min to preserve internal parts and to not past the critical 250hp level.
I hope this is enough and a safe rpm for an Harrop with 2.9" Pulley ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ECY55isJ6U

I have to do a learning session with Obdtuner and doing power graph to check the delivered HP.
I drove it for 2 km and when i past 2500 tr/min : it's a diabolical rocket now :love: :devil:

Will investigate on broken engine next winter.

vocky

White smoke on a sc is normally the inlet manifold leaking.
Probably the seals on the laminovas.
Easy fix, just use some engine sealant on them.

Edit; just realised it stopped again 🙁

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