Project Freeze My Ass Off (rear Poly Bush's Astra G)

evocarlos

Sjdickso said:
Looking forward to the progress on this, did you get OEM discs?

part 2 is a week or 2 away getting all the parts 1st then just do it all at once 🙂

the disc's are delphi and came from autovaux 🙂
found some others that are a few quid cheaper
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vauxhall_Astra_2.0_2003/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-friction/brake-disc/?104880241&1&2b8b52f285422cc4609f45613558ae1336130db3&000027

Sjdickso

evocarlos said:
part 2 is a week or 2 away getting all the parts 1st then just do it all at once 🙂

the disc's are delphi and came from autovaux 🙂
found some others that are a few quid cheaper
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vauxhall_Astra_2.0_2003/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-friction/brake-disc/?104880241&1&2b8b52f285422cc4609f45613558ae1336130db3&000027

Nice one, i normally use Autovuax or the shop here, Delphi are spot on found Mintex as good although some don't seem to rate them.

evocarlos

Sjdickso said:
Nice one, i normally use Autovuax or the shop here, Delphi are spot on found Mintex as good although some don't seem to rate them.

i normally use autovaux for these parts and some of the overpriced dealer prices they normally get a 20% off the dealer price
the 1st time i went to 308mm disc's and pads i had the lot to do the conversion from autovaux
they came with mintex extreme pads and let me tell you they piss all over the likes of ebc green/red stuff after having both in the past i don't rate ebc pads as good
the green don't last 5 mins and the reds have to be so hot to get them to work its unreal and im on the understanding that yellow stuff is even harder so they'd be useless aswell
i still have the 308's and the mintex extreme pads on and tryed to get them from autovaux but they have since changed to delphi hence why i have gotten the gm pads for the front as there closer to the mintex pads
i have the Delphi pads and disc's on the rear and there already bedded in and my hand brake is back down to 2 clicks full lock on only covered about 220 miles

on another note
took the car out today to fetch them rear lights and i dont know if its the work done on the rear or the new spoiler but the rear end is so much more stable even at 125mph 🙂 fuel consumption is really bad atm 24.5mpg lol

evocarlos

fitted an alarm siren last night but the plug was damaged so had to splice it in with a plug from the scrap yard it works and its not gone off in the night
need to make the wiring more permanent today so will pop some pics up later 🙂

MikeS

i used lmf as they had greats deals on genuine vauxhall 308 discs, and used em for the green pads thingys i cant remember what they called lol

nice combination but brake dust is a ball breaker

evocarlos

i found with the standard gm pads or the mintex extreme there's not so much dust but having the gsi brake ducts fitted push's what dust there is on to the wheel lol

oh been pottering about with the car today here's lots of pic's 🙂

the irmscher logo was old and brittle time for a new one

lining it all up

tad-arr

next i went on to the alarm siren it had been tested and working but still wanted to give it best survival chances 🙂

fix the wiring

tube of the shrink

liquid tape just to seal the shrink tube as i could not find any self gluing of the right size

then cut the siren open you cant even tell is open in the pic lol

very clean inside and well worth the effort to make it last

new battery's in had to use the terminals from the old battery's as these maplins ones were 3 pin not 4 pin but hey it works 🙂

id like to see water mess this pcb up now its painted with liquid tape 🙂

same for the other side

then some high strength PU18 sealant to glue it back together

go it fitted back to the car and give it a test with the window down it works a treat

rember the other day i painted them mirror covers well here they are fitted to the car and after a quick polish with t-cut

also swapped the mirror glass from the mirrors i got from the scrappy and fitted it to my heated back plate

its off

heated mirror back plate

not sure whats next on the list lol

Sjdickso

Once again cracking work, never seen liquid tape before.

evocarlos

Sjdickso said:
Once again cracking work, never seen liquid tape before.

thanks 🙂
the liquid tape is what i used to make pc parts water proof for overclocking but it has many uses
me dad's pajero had a split boot on the steering arm and failed the mot i cleaned it with petrol and put a blob of liquid tape on it then took it back and it passed 🙂 its rubber in a can and stick like s&&t to a blanket

Matt

evocarlos said:
the liquid tape is what i used to make pc parts water proof for overclocking but it has many uses

I've been wondering about using something like that on the EGR Cheaters to prevent them getting water damaged in the engine bays.

evocarlos

Matt said:
I've been wondering about using something like that on the EGR Cheaters to prevent them getting water damaged in the engine bays.

ive been looking at making the window closer on pcb as i can do that now

but if you wanted to make it engine bay proof you could cover it in potting resin

http://www.maplin.co.uk/px804c-epoxy-resin-391533
it would be indestructible once covered

evocarlos

more parts appeared!

stainless steel heavy duty exhaust clamps
power flex front bush's (thanks matt)
jockey wheel to make arch roller

genuine vx astra tailored mats

Matt

I spy the keyrings in the background as well (y)

evocarlos

Matt said:
I spy the keyrings in the background as well (y)

hehe i had forgotten about them 🙂
was going to start part 2 tonight by taking the front wishbones off and take them to work for shot blasting tomorrow but looks like im working overtime tomorrow so need the car to get there lol
there's still the afternoon if i can get it all apart in time

IDI_AMIN

evocarlos said:
f%%k f%%k f%%k f%%k f%%k f%%k f%%k f%%k
and now i need some new mirror covers lol

just got off the phone with the paint supplyers and he told me its oil from the compressor in the air line only way to solve the problem is fit a gun filter £3 🙂

Hey carlos a bit of insider info. the pits you have in your lacquer is what is called silicone or "fish eyes" in body shops. this is caused by certain aerosols like dashboard cleaners back to black sprays that type of thing.Or maybe wax that you polish your car with. As well as oil in your airline it could be down to maybe using wd-40 in your spraying environment before starting your paint job.For future reference you should check ingredients of your car cleaning products to ensure it says "silicone free" And if you didn't already wash panel to be painted with panel wipe, spirit wipe, degreaser (different names used) .These steps will go a long way to ensure a silicone free spray job next time (y)

evocarlos

IDI AMIN said:
Hey carlos a bit of insider info. the pits you have in your lacquer is what is called silicone or "fish eyes" in body shops. this is caused by certain aerosols like dashboard cleaners back to black sprays that type of thing.Or maybe wax that you polish your car with. As well as oil in your airline it could be down to maybe using wd-40 in your spraying environment before starting your paint job.For future reference you should check ingredients of your car cleaning products to ensure it says "silicone free" And if you didn't already wash panel to be painted with panel wipe, spirit wipe, degreaser (different names used) .These steps will go a long way to ensure a silicone free spray job next time (y)

hey thanks that's good info
my process ATM is clean part with t-cut (to remover any polish's/ silicon) its painting safe
scrub down with scotch pad or wet and dry
wipe over with tac rag
then start to paint
my issue was down to a lack of use on the compressor side its been under the bench for about a year and i forgot to empty the condensation/oil mix from the tank and the regulater was full so it was my own fault for not making sure it was done before hand
now its been emptied and the new filters fitted the lacquer goes on much cleaner still some small dust particles on the surface but easy to polish them out
im just prepping the workshop to paint the spoiler today the extractor is on and the heater is on 1 bar got to get the temp up some

IDI_AMIN

Glad to share info with you. You could even use some petrol to wash down panel .all other steps you mentioned are part of the process and good practices but i would stop using t -cut as this could add to your problem

evocarlos

but t-cut is a safe option to remove contaminates and silicones its safe for paint processing 🙂
http://www.t-cut.co.uk/index.cfm?page=55

IDI_AMIN

Carlos t cut may be paint safe but it is not painting safe trust me on this one. you would never use this in a body shop to prepare a panel for painting this is a form of wax to restore a dead colour
use one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=panel%20wipe&_sop=1
18 years spray painting experience i would not lie to you or mislead you

evocarlos

i looked at the u pol anti silicon today but its to exspncive for just the spoiler
i use the t-cut to remove the old polish and crap from the paint then its sanded and washed
not having any trouble with the base coat just the top coat every thing gets tripple filtered now paint and air supply so hoping for a better if not perfect finish this time
whats you thoughts on anti bloom thinners ?

IDI_AMIN

Like i said all your other processes are good practices. Anti bloom thinners ive never used much myself this is just down to spraying temperature that causes the paint to bloom a bit of heat in your spraying area is good if you have it. A heat gun is good warm your panel up before you start painting and inbetween coats of your basecoat heat gun will dry it in seconds.Keeping a safe distance with heat gun keep moving gun around area .Then a final heat of your panel before you lacquer. Use some petrol to wash panel this is cheaper than a tin of panel wipe especially if you are just painting once in a while
So to sum up for me anti bloom thinners is a bit of a gimmick maybe slightly dearer than regular thinners you would usually use just keep your panel warm when you paint and you should not have blooming .Also make sure your basecoat is dry before you lacquer lightly touch paint with back of your finger .If it is still wet before you lacquer the solvents in the paint will come through the lacquer i think this is what causes your bloom also.

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