Z22SE For one year now I can't still make my car run smoothly

#21
It also sounds like the lifters/tappets are a little noisy
The repair shop said that they were changed, but fir the first few days after the repairs my car sounded like it had a diesel engine... jokes aside, I was told than in couple of days they should seat themselves in and it would be better.. but as you can hear yourself after 1000km it's still not sounding great
 
#22
Why did you keep the EGR valve in its place? It seems it is in its normal position. Is the blanking plate under it? Have you checked it yet? An uncontrolled flowing of the exhaust gas can also cause overfuelling symptoms. I would also suggest to connect back the EGR valve for a short test but as I see the wires had been cut so it would not be an easy task.
And what's that thing on the top of the engine? :)
 
#23
Is the blanking plate under it? Have you checked it yet?
EGR was stuck fully inside, so I used it as a holder for a DIY blanking plate (made from BMW e32 fender). But I have not removed it since to look at it (there might be a possibility that it burned through).
I will try to remove that pipe that goes into the intake manifold as soon as possible when the weather gets at least a bit better and while doing that I'll check the blanking plate.

I would also suggest to connect back the EGR valve for a short test but as I see the wires had been cut so it would not be an easy task.
My EGR is fully dead, so connecting it back wouldn't change a thing. And before the timing chain change I tried lots of things with the EGR.

And what's that thing on the top of the engine? :)
LPG gas (very popular modification in Lithuania with high consumption petrol engines). But since the timing chain I have not turned that on, the LPG tank is fully empty and the injectors are turned off. Everything I'm diagnosing and showing you is while driving fully on petrol
 
#24
How can you have the egr valve and an egr cheater both fitted together.
The egr valve is obviously faulty it will be stuck open causing the over fueling. The video looks like it is still wired up
You also have the engine management light on what does the op-com say is the stored fault code
 
#25
Possibly you could also need to have the oxygen sensor deleted from the ecu. Earlier you posted that it is removed because you have no cat.
Oxygen sensors are also involved with fueling. So that is also something to consider.
 
#26
How can you have the egr valve and an egr cheater both fitted together.
The egr valve is obviously faulty it will be stuck open causing the over fueling. The video looks like it is still wired up
My EGR was stuck in an open(?) (the thingy was not protruding) position, so I sandwitched the blanking plate between the collector and EGR Valve housing. I will still have to remove the EGR and look into the DIY blanking plate, because it could've burned straight through.
If you look closely you can see that I cut-off the wires from the EGR plug and directly wired in the cheater.

You also have the engine management light on what does the op-com say is the stored fault code
You answered your own question in the second post "Earlier you posted that it is removed because you have no cat". Secondary oxygen sensor (after cat) is missing

Possibly you could also need to have the oxygen sensor deleted from the ecu.
I've looked into that and it is imbossible to do with this ECU

Oxygen sensors are also involved with fueling. So that is also something to consider.
*First oxygen sensor is involved with fueling, the one that is present in my exhaust system and is functioning correctly (as was noticed in previous live data recordings)
 
#28
I don't know about a bmw fender for a blanking plate, but you can also get a blanking plate from e bay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-EGR-B...=item20df4be735:g:SdYAAOSws-9ZznJf:rk:12:pf:0

This looks very similar to the one i have on my car. If you have a blanking plate where the egr valve sits and you have a blanking plug where the pipe connects to the inlet manifold and you also remove the pipe like several of us have already suggested, then it will be impossible for gases to circulate.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Vehicle-Parts-Accessories/131090/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=blanking+plate

You choose the blanking plate that suits your car

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...=blanking+plate+vauxhall+vectra&_sacat=131090

Some people have even made a blanking plate from a soda can, For gas to burn through the metal it would have to be very hot and flammable.

I find it hard to believe that there was fire coming from your exhaust. This must be something to do with the lpg you are using
 
#31
Get the blanking plug , the blanking plate fitted also remove the pipe, then take it from there.
See what problems you have after that.
Best advice i could give.
Also with tech 2 diagnostic equipment i think it could be possible to delete the oxygen sensor from the ecu. It's just another suggestion that you should look into
 
#32
That's one of they exhausts teenage boys fit, It's more for show, Something only a total jerk off would fit on their car.;)
It is not actually related to a fault though is it
Just asking if this kind of heat could've burned through the sheet metal used as a blanking plate, that is all.

Get the blanking plug , the blanking plate fitted also remove the pipe, then take it from there.
See what problems you have after that.
Best advice i could give.
Also with tech 2 diagnostic equipment i think it could be possible to delete the oxygen sensor from the ecu. It's just another suggestion that you should look into
Right now I'm going to fully revamp the EGR system and do what you both suggested and after that we'll see what happens
 
#33
Just asking if this kind of heat could've burned through the sheet metal used as a blanking plate, that is all.
If i were you i would disable this function for now if it is possible, And wait until your car is running properly before you have the flame function

The repair shop said that they were changed, but fir the first few days after the repairs my car sounded like it had a diesel engine... jokes aside, I was told than in couple of days they should seat themselves in and it would be better.. but as you can hear yourself after 1000km it's still not sounding great
The tappets should sort themselves out within a minute of the engine running as they should be lubricated by oil to stop them from being noisy.
So potentially the oil is not circulating correctly, if as you say after 1000 km they are still noisy, this could also affect the timing chains as well as the timing chain tensioner which requires oil pressure for it to function correctly.

I would also advise against any crazy driving and racing before you have this problem solved.

If you can, tell us what timing chain kit has been fitted in your, if you supplied the garage who done the work with the chain kit or if they supplied it themselves

How is your work with the egr system going. Have you made any progress?
 
#35
Happy holidays. Just took off the EGR, the blanking plate is intact and no exhaust gases get to the intake manifold. We measured the pressure on cylinders, all four are at 13.
Going to save up and leave it a shop to dissasemble the whole front of the engine and find a leak. Also, spark plugs look tragic:
All the four plugs look like the same?
 
#36
All the four plugs look like the same?
20181228_140249.jpg


Yes. And actually after writing that post that you replied to just now - i ran to a shop and got four new plugs (i was lied to at the repair-shop that my plugs were changed with the timing chain) and installed those new ones. The car runs better now on load. It still bubbles and sometimes stutters, but its minor compared to previous time.. although the idle is still the same when engine gets hot. So one problem fixed, but I still need to find other ends, because the shaking engine on idle is driving me nuts
 
#37
I don't think you fixed anything or maybe temporarily. The tip of the electrode, the thread, the ceramic body and the hexagon are like the new. The carbon build up is only the result of the overfuelling not the root cause. Since all the four is the same you can exclude a leaky injector. It should be a general issue. Too much fuel (modified firmware of the ECU for the LPG?) or not enough air (some kind of obstacle in the inlet tract?).
 
#39
Since all the four is the same you can exclude a leaky injector. It should be a general issue.
If i were you i would disable this function for now if it is possible, And wait until your car is running properly before you have the flame function
So Hello, Happy 2019, I got some updates and I'm pretty sure sad ones...
I just got around some used injectors with a fuel rail (for 10€ o_O) and a new fuel pump. The fuel pump solved the problem with fuel shortage at very high rpms so I gained back some power in the high-end. But when I got around changing the injectors I found that the fourth one wasn't seated properly and was VERY leaky (peeing fuel instead of misting) (I'll post some pictures below), but after changing the Injectors and their O-rings - nothing changed.. Well okay I lie a bit saying that nothing change, some power was gained in the low end and over-fueling stopped while driving around slowly.. But the rough Idle and stuttering was still there. Then I removed my throttle body and found PUDDLES of oil inside my intake manifold and also the valve stems where oily.. Could this be the PCV problem? Or leaky piston rings and valve spacers(?)/seaters(?)

SS6XaOu.jpg X9dwV8E.jpg HbvRgCi.jpg
 
#40
Make a new livedata after ECU reset by disconnecing the battery terminal for some time (~30 minutes) to see whether the fuel trims are changed or not. The build up on all plugs should not be the effect of one leaky injector. Anyway, how about you plugs now?
 
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