Electric Water Pump

JohnnyN

Former Staff
Senior Member
Is there a lot involved with that Neil? What parts would be required?
 

vocky

Staff
you can get a cheap temp gauge fron Aldi, I think it's for outside air temp or something dunno..

not sure how the guys connected it up on their vx220's notsure.gif

or

just buy a coolant temp kit, fit the sensor in the SC inlet manifold matrix outlet pipe and connect the gauge :D
 

JohnnyN

Former Staff
Senior Member
Popped upto Maplins this morning. I bought myself a +12v Flashing LED and a new 10 amp blade fuse with failure LED for quick detection of a blown fuse.

I was going to mount the LED under my arm rest but chose to put it in the glovebox in the end. I routed the wiring from the relay box, thru' some trunking and down thru' the bulkhead where the KMS boost control wiring goes. I then drilled a hole in the redundant glovebox light lense and located the LED in the hole.

With the glovebox secured back in position, I then connected up the Positive wire of the LED to the exit side of the fuse holder and ran the Negative to the Earth mount box on the strut top. I then popped in the new 10 amp blade fuse.

I turned the key to the ignition lights and the new LED sprung to life. I then turned off the ignition and got Chris to come out and repeat the process whilst I was holding onto the electric pump again. She turned the keys and once again the pump was purring in my hand and the LED flashing.

I will investigate fitting a temp gauge kit soon too. At least now I have a little warning if the live feed fails again.

 

JohnnyN

Former Staff
Senior Member
Had a chat with Mark Watts this morning about this weekends events. He's fairly confident that the engine is okay. He mentioned that if the engine was damaged in any way there would be tell tell signs by now and that there are cars running Stage 1 conversions at 220bhp with no charge cooler pre rads and they are fine. The fact that I don't drive the car really hard or use it on the track should be a bit of a saviour.

I did notice the pump kicking in this morning when I turned the keys whilst in the garage. The pump is quite audible when you're in the garage. Can't say that i've EVER noticed this sound before in almost 2 years?? I turn the ignition on and there is now a combination of the fuel pump and the water pump, then you just hear the wurring of the water pump.

I drove to work this morning and it was -2.5'C outside. Within 5 minutes the the engine temp was just over 80'C. This is where it stayed for the rest of the journey to work. I gave it the beans in a few places and the wheels were spinning up throughout 2nd gear. Before this, the car has felt sluggish under acceleration and the temp shoots up over 90`C when under load, but this morning it topped out at 85'C.

Same story on the way home from work tonight. Its very much stop/start coming home from work and sat in traffic. The cooling fan is always on by the time that I pull up on the drive. Outside temp was showing 8`C and again, the water temp was showing 85`C. Got home and no cooling fan running.

I just need to monitor the fuel consumption now too just to see if this gets any better. Mark said that with the extra heat the car would have run richer.

Fingers crossed!!

(y)


**EDIT**

I forgot to mention, i've been driving for well over 12 months with the hot blowers on to keep the engine temp down when driving in town.

:wtf:
 

JohnnyN

Former Staff
Senior Member
One week on!!

Things have definately been different since we found the problem with the electric water pump and fixed it. The car has been sat at a constant 85` or less whilst driving where as before it was always up at 90`. The car is far more responsive now too and there's definately more torque than before we found the problem.

The main thing that i've noticed is that when I lift the bonnet after driving, I can now actually put my hand on the charger without burning my hand. Its is very warm but the heat is tolerable.
 

blue se2

Senior Member
JohnnyN said:
put it in the glovebox in the end.

PMSL you will need a new glove box hinge soon then the amount you will open and close that or the mrs will have to sit in the back with the kids so you can keep it open :LOL: :LOL:
 

Matt

Administrator
Great news John, would be good to see if you've got any more bhp/torque according to the RR.
 

JohnnyN

Former Staff
Senior Member
The more I think about it, I do believe that the pump has been out of action for a VERY long period of time. The smell of fuel from the exhaust has been very strong for a long time. Emmissions have always been good but when I was over with Daz a few months ago and we were in his garage with the door shut and the engine running it smelt so much that we had to open the door.

Also, looking at that NGK spark plug I took a picture of this morning, all sooted and black (I removed these nearly 12 months ago for GM plugs again), I would say that its been overfuelling to compensate for the higher inlet temps. Mark Watts did mention that the engine would run richer with higher inlet temps.

ai3.photobucket.com_albums_y62_johnnyn1973_Wheels_SparkPlugsPics14thMarch2010.jpg


notsure.gif
 

poundy

Senior Member
JohnnyN said:
Does the electric water pump for the pre-rad charge cooler run all the time or does it cut in and out when on/off boost?

Daz checked the feed to my pump this morning and there was no power to it whilst on idle. We traced the wires back to a relay and a 10 amp fuse. The fuse is fine.

Answers on a postcard please!

notsure.gif

mine runs all the time
 
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