Removing Balance Shafts

Dude

cheers..

Dude

vocky said:
they should only be 28lbs and I tightenened them to 36lb's :cry:

I think it was some kind of fabrication fault, so dont worry.
It wasn´t streched over it´s limit.

Dude

Hey!!!!!

I´m in sex..

:oops:

vocky

it's always the small things which cause the most damage 🙁

vocky

Dude said:
Hey!!!!!

I´m in sex..

:oops:

:lol:

ASTRA2_2BADLAD

sounds great the balance shaft removal, has anyone fabricated a fully working bolt on kit as of yet?? where will you get the shortened chain from??? really interested in this mod showo..

vocky

the chain would just require some links removing using a bike chain splitter

2-20

vocky said:
this could be a better solution 🙂

Hello,

Does anyone know where these pictures are from ..???
And eventually who could supply this kind of chain guide

slindborg

I'd be inclined to fit some oil jets in above the water pump, below the tensioner rail and over the crank pulley.... might be a little tricky to plumb in but using brake lines and under piston squirters I cant see a huge problem as the oil bath method looks tricky to implement in the z22's case.

vocky

2-20 said:
Does anyone know where these pictures are from ..???
And eventually who could supply this kind of chain guide

the pictures are from a usa built turbo engine, developed in conjuction with GM :?

the kit was supplied by GM, the tensioner bracket was made from a scrap piece of metal and only required for over 500 bhp :shock:

Our idea is to use one of the other water pump chain guides, shorten the chain using a chain link remover tool and make the collets :?

2-20

Thank you Vocky,

I read your comments on page 1 but thought that you had further information about this kit.
I've got an other question about these balance shafts. I never had one in my hand so my question might seem silly, but does the stock balance shafts could be machined to become neutral..??
The GM neutral shafts seems very buffy .... and are heavy and expensive.
I can't imagine much loss when compared with your "shorten shafts" system to keep these two remote bearings. Furthermore you have less concern with a wear issue and no need to close the oil ways.

exmantaa

(Hi, I'm registered new here, but already a long time lurking this forum.)

The GM neutral shafts are in fact hollow tubes, that's why they look soo beefy. Problem is they are quite expensive...

One question about the above short chain version (my preference):
Was there not an oil supply hole for the chain lubricator in one of those front bearings? By blocking these with simple straight collets this supply is also blocked. Not good! A thicker collet with a groove at the right height for the oil feed can be a solution.

exmantaa

Some useful information can be found here:
http://www.gmperformancedivision.com/pe ... icles.aspx

Especially the LSJ power manuals or better the 300HP Ecotec articles give very good engine build information. (Lots of color pics)

vocky

exmantaa said:
Was there not an oil supply hole for the chain lubricator in one of those front bearings? By blocking these with simple straight collets this supply is also blocked. Not good! A thicker collet with a groove at the right height for the oil feed can be a solution.

quite correct, a simple slot on the outside of the collet will allow the oil to reach the water pump tensioner cheers..

2-20

exmantaa said:
Some useful information can be found here:
http://www.gmperformancedivision.com/pe ... icles.aspx

Especially the LSJ power manuals or better the 300HP Ecotec articles give very good engine build information. (Lots of color pics)

Woooww !

A very good link.

Thank you

Steve_Crisp

Hi all,

Sorry I haven't been around - too busy at work! :cry:

I tried turning-down a normal balance-shaft in my lathe to "neutralise" it It took about three evenings to do one, and it smashed hell out of my little lathe (which is around 70 years old!). The originals are induction-hardened, so although you can do it, it's not frankly worth the effort.

The original drawing I did of my proposed kit is going to work just fine and is easy to retro-fit to an installed engine - I just need someone to volunteer to make them commercially (maybe TMS or Courtneys?). They can have the idea for free. I've added a couple of holes on the eccentric-washer so that it can be locked-up tight one it's inserted in the block.

I'll do full pictures and drawings once it's finished. An original chain-guide can be adapted to be the new chain-guide as Vocky says. It picks up one of the existing holes in the block quite nicely, so the other hole required does not need to take much force from the chain because the existing hole can do that - it just acts as a guide locator.

Steve

vocky

some good work Steve cheers..

as you say the standard balancer shafts are best replaced :roll:

Steve_Crisp

If I don't use the original oiler for the chain I reckon I can get rid of the additional chain-follower?

I think the chain will clear the part of the casting that the plastic oiler sits on as long as I get rid of the actual plastic oiler.

The outer piece of my balance-shaft replacement "kit" would become the new oiler location as I can take an oil feed from that oil-gallery that used to feed the balanc-shaft and just drill a hole through the kit outer-piece and lead it off to where it's needed...

Steve

davemate

any updates on this? it seems like a cheap way of freeing up a few hp and i'd be interested in doing this.

rabidh

I'd be up for this too. Maybe we should start a 'possible interest' thread like for vocky's 4:2:1 - I imagine a lot of people would be extremely interested in a kit - especially if could be fitted with the engine in place.

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