Removing Balance Shafts

macerena

Just a thought about the Balancer shaft removal idea. If the lhs balance shaft stub-end that holds the chain sprocket was cut/ground off in situ and then the short chain version/method implemented then surely that would take the balancer shafts out of the equation and still allow the original water pump to do it's stuff. Possibly a quick and simple solution to the dilema.
So to conclude.
Grind/cut off the LHS balance shaft end stub that the sprocket fits onto.
Utilise the short chain idea from earlier on in the Topic discussions, Poss adding in a small plate under chain guide to retain sawn off shaft in position or chain guide may be sufficient.
Leave the RHS balancer shaft in situ with chain sprocket thus monimising work, eh voila & there you have it.
Balancer shafts taken out of the equation at minimal cost and time for all involved. cheers..
Just my thoughts on the subject and you might even get better MPG as you can use a lighter throttle to accelerate to reqd speed???
Andy

Rosssco

Thread revival (but better than starting a new one!).. A couple of questions:

1) Can the balancer shaft / water pump drive chain be removed without removing the timing chain? I was thinking if I remove both chain tensioners and unbolt the cam chain guide covering the inlet balancer shaft, it my provide just enough room to pull out the inlet side shaft...
2) For knocking in the block shaft bearings, do I need access in from underneath (sump removal) by any chance? Or is it just the shaft hole that needs to be available? I understand the rest of Vocky's guide 8)

I am thinking of attempting the removal during my stage 2 SC installation on my VX220. I'll already have quite a few items on the engine disconencted anyway, so I'm seriously considering lowering the engine sufficient to do this, although don't want to faff about withremoving the timing chain if I don't have to! :shifty:

Cheers,
Ross

vocky

you need to push the bearings back from the shaft hole and the cam chain has to come off to gain access

not really that hard to do if you drop the engine below the subframe :thumbup:

piwo

there is different picture about cooling system :
http://www.verboom.net/blog/index.html?single=20100411.0

which one is correct?

i have ewp in this position:

it is ok?

vocky

have you removed the thermostat and used the DaviesCraig controller ?

piwo

yes i removed spring from the thermostat used the DaviesCraig controller and Pump and broke rotor of mechanical pump.

vocky

My original set up still used a thermostat, so the ewp had to be in a set place.

my latest set up uses the Davies Craig controller which does not need the thermostat (like yours) so it doesn't really matter where the ewp is fitted :thumbup:

piwo

i had to instal back pressure valve and everything is ok now .

there is 75 degrees while driving and 84 degrees at standstill. i'm very happy.

vocky

I had to move the Davies Craig temperature sensor on mine, it wasn't seeing the engines heat after two minutes, so mounted it in the remote thermostat housing I had fitted for the old electric coolant pump (thermostat removed)

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