Removing Balance Shafts

vocky

nickb777 said:

vocky said:
Hacksaw cuts them easily 🙂

Wonder if I can do them engine in then? I don't need to use a hamer on the bearings as I have the BS delete kit mmmmmmmmmmm

if you cut the balancer shaft several times then it could be possible dunno..

only issue is the metal fillings getting into the engine :?

luna_s

the impeller is plastic, it can be broken off - i did it to my old pump - was investigating this route myself but decided against it

i'm wondering if the water pump could be belt driven instead - would take a lot more work tho

eg mod the water pump drive cog access plate with a thicker plate / bearing and oil seal

mod the drive cog so it has a drive shaft coming from it and of course a drive pully roughly of the same diameter as the drive cog

then just a longer drive belt

rik1083

I've ordered the ewp, will let you know how it goes

rik1083

here we go..... going down the EWP route this weekend!

rabidh

Good luck! I'd love to know how this turns out... I'm definitely interested in trying this myself if it seems to work well...

rik1083

they're out! (well they're not but the chain is gone 😛)

my tent blew down overnight and now it's raining so i can't put the car back together 🙁

it seemed to cope well with the little test i did (can't do a real test till it's road worth again)

rabidh

Shame about the tent 🙁 Hope you get it all back together soon.
So have you just left the old water pump in the car with the chain disconnected or did you bypass it somehow?

rik1083

removed chain, removed heavy pulley from the old water pump, removed thermostat. (the pump is still in place, it's just not being driven)
I've not got an electronic regulator for the ewp yet, so when I went for a drive this evening i had the pump running constantly (not good in the long run i know, but this was just a test). The temperature didn't get out of the 60s and it was a substancial blast 😛 looking good!

Hopefully I'll get to dyno it late next week when I've fitted the electronic controller that I'll order on monday (now that I know the pump is up to the job)

vocky

we want pics :lol:

the water pump uses 5 bhp of engine power, so with the balancer shafts disconnected thats a 15 bhp gain !

rabidh

vocky said:
we want pics :lol:

the water pump uses 5 bhp of engine power, so with the balancer shafts disconnected thats a 15 bhp gain !

And that was 10bhp according to GM with just blanks... Removing the drive completely must be a bit better. Must admit i'd expected the pump to use more than 5bhp at top revs...

I'd be interested to see how the heater circuit works after this though... I'm not sure what pumps the water around it. Not that it was very good to begin with!

rik1083

I have pics but they're a bit cruddy since i was in a rush running from the rain.
The heater is something i was unsure about. My heater actually worked bloody well, so I should be able to test it with a decisive result. I think if it doesn't work well, then I can get a booster electronic pump for it.... but not my primary concern 😛

rik1083

my pre-made contraption, measurements based on the spare crash box and radiator housing I have in my loft..

new bleed valve, since this contraption will be instead of the original hose with the bleed valve in it

fitted.. the hose is bendy.. but it's pretty hard to bend

ewp position inside crash box, note it's facing upwards as it should to eliminate any air locks

had to relocate the bleed valve to the other end actually, because it stuck out too much on the otherside with all the bendy pipe.. it hit the wheel arch

rik1083

removing the thermostat (I will have to go back in here when I get the digital controller.. but you can access it from the engine bay quite easily)

removed the tensioners on the left and right, and the pointy tension thing (not the middle since the bolt is behind the cam chain), removed 3 bolts on the water pump pulley, pulley slides off, then you can do what you want to the balance chain.. I just cut it in half since i didnt fancy taking the cam chain off 🙂

edbutler

Wow, great work mate!! Wanna do mine?! haha

rabidh

That looks great. There's loads of space for the pump there, and when you consider how much vaux charge for that bloody hose it starts to make replacing the whole thing with a pump look quite attractive!

Did you have to remove the front + rear engine rubbers or did you get it all done with them on? I never got the engine low enough to get that stupid long bolt out on mine, so I could only rotate the front around on it when I did the timing chain...

slightly off topic, but looking at that photo there's no real reason for that huge bolt as far as I can see. Is there any reason it couldn't be replaced with a bit of threaded bar that got left in the engine block?

rik1083

i took the right side mount off, but not the front and back... that long bolt does come out if you try hard enough.. i found jacking the engine up a bit higher gives it the mm extra needed, it is definately a pita though.. once the bolt is out you could probably shorten it by a few mm to make it easier in future

rabidh

You can get it out above the subframe, rather than below?? I never tried that!

rik1083

rabidh said:
You can get it out above the subframe, rather than below?? I never tried that!

still hits the subframe and is very annoying, but it does come out if you jiggle it about enough

rik1083

they don't have a rr at my local place anymore! apparently they sold it in january grr...
I guess I'll go back to rstuning.. Anyone been back there since the rr day?

rik1083

well.. booked it in for next Tuesday at "RC Developments" in Warrington, about 30 mins from me. They seem like a pretty decent tuners (mainly evos/japanese), but they have a dyno dynamics rr, so should be calibrated similar to rstuning's for a comparable result.

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