seriously fed up now!!!!

Andy

yeah Matt, the earths seem fine although they aren't screwed to bare metal dunno how much difference that makes.

as said above the power and rca's are seperate going down each side of the car its just under the seats where it gets messy.

hopefully gonna sort out a false floor just after xmas as i'm off for 16 days, just gotta pull myself away from my boys 360 :lol:

Andy

JohnnyN said:
I had an MTX suband box from Sextons in Bath and it was bonkers. Never had any trouble with mine. I've since sold it on and i'm using 2x12" JBL subs now in a sealed box. They sound great.

madas

when everything is working fine they sound awesome its just i've had a few problems which has really dissapointed me as i was led to believe MTX is a good make dunno..

JohnnyN

I've got a 4 gauge earth cable (10mm diameter). Its located at the anchor point for the lap belt under the rear seat. I would advise that all earths are to bare metal.

Andy

yeah will have a look at that whilst on hols.

not sure what size cable is currently being used for the earths but i know the power cable is 4 gauge going to the circuit breaker.

elthrin

That wiring is a right mess, would be really pissed if I had actually paid someone to do that. Does not look like the cause of your issue though.

I would however move the thin blue wire (probably remote power) away from the clip where the seat slots into.

Those MTX Thunder 5500 subs should have a 150-300 watt rms amp each (or a single 300-600 watt rms mono/bridged)

I presume the speakers are wired in parallel to make 2 ohms. So the amp will be running at its lowest possible impendence and still only be just about capable of running the two speakers that you have.

I imagine the gain is turned right up to compensate for the fact the amp is not powerful enough.

Over-driving the amp has two effects:
it can produce clipping which often leads to damaging the speaker (due to heat or over excursion)
it can damage the amp as it is always working hard and running hot.

Clipping, if you don't know is when the signal is clipped at the top of the sound wave as the amp has reached its maximum

Sounds like you should just turn down the gain and connect it to just one of the speakers.

Then I would get a another MTX Thunder 311D mono amp to drive the other speaker or get a 600 watt RMS amp to drive them both.

Andy

cheers for the info.

i have been told recently by my friends dad that the amp cannot be repaired as there is a few bits inside blown and these bits can no longer be bought. i'm not sure i beleive that so will get a second opinion.

the only reason i was using the 311d was it came as a package with the 2 subs, i assumed it would be fine.

do you have any suggestions to a suitable amp for the subs that won't break the bank?

elthrin

Sorry, I used to be in to car audio. But I have not really kept up on what is availible these days.

I do know that MTX used to be a good make for midrange speakers but that was years ago. They may well be owned by someone else these days.

elthrin

Used to mostley use Rockford and infinity gear.

The rockford stuff still looks good.
Alpine were traditionally pretty good as were Orion.
Kenwood used to be good for bass but they look a bit rubish these days

evocarlos

Daz said:
Got abit of an issue with my amps at the mo,,,there clunking thru the speakers when they turn on...need to get it sorted as dont think its doin it anygood...

hey daz you need to put a delay in the remote so that the head unit is all on before the amp kicks in (that's the thud) cause they come on at same time Alpine amps have a turn on delay to abolish this.. think there is a way with using a relay/resister may be have a look on talkaudio and ask the question..

evocarlos

Andy said:

all looks fine to me as you must remember most of the rca leads of recent years are shielded so there is no interferes to get thought if you get a buzzing sound through your speakers when the vol is down then you know you have a interface problem .vx's come with suppressors on the block to stop the wine from all the electrics on engine.. hence no problem.. 😃 😃

Andy

elthrin said:
Used to mostley use Rockford and infinity gear.

The rockford stuff still looks good.
Alpine were traditionally pretty good as were Orion.
Kenwood used to be good for bass but they look a bit rubish these days

have heard a few people mention orion recently. just saw this

http://www.bassjunkies.com/?pid=28464&s ... urce=brand

any good?? seems a tidy price too.

or this one??

http://www.bassjunkies.com/?pid=32178&s ... urce=brand

elthrin

The Orion appears to be rated at about 300 watts rms.

Model Number HCCA-D600
Max Power 600
4 Ohm Rating 125 x 1
2 Ohm Rating 225 x 1
1 Ohm Rating 300 x 1

Where as the PhoenixGold is

OCTANE-R 8.0:1

• High efficiency Class "D" monoblock amplifier
• 18dB variable LP crossover
• 18dB variable subsonic filter
• Low Pass Level port (LPL)
• Dimensions: 14.75L x 10.875W x 2.25H

800W x 1 (2 ohm mono)
max power

so should be about 400 rms

I would get some other opinions if I were you but on paper the PhoenixGold looks better especially as it has the subsonic filter that could help to protect your speakers from in audible frequencies that they will not be able to reproduce anyway.

Andy

ah didn't realise those were max power figures lol.

what about an alpine??

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine- ... -4398.html

evocarlos

alpine would be my choice the one above is good but can be found cheaper elsewhere. i have the older model mrd m1001 very good reliable amp, but don't buy anything from bassjunkies way to over priced..---> my amps in here https://z22se.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=3480
lol Ive just checked assmunkies and the alpine is £10 cheaper that car audio D , i stand corrected the only reason i say over prised is this they were £400 when i got mine 2 years ago---> http://www.bassjunkies.com/?pid=30593&s ... urce=brand

elthrin

Yes that one whould do the trick.

Would have to make sure you don't have the gain up too high as that actually has slighly more power than you need.

furn

that wiring is shocking im an electrician down a mine and see some rough work but that is crap for a professional outfit , sextons should put that right for you.

who said sony and jbl were cheap brands, bull.gif

if you are entering sound offs then high end stuff is worth buying, but if you just want good loud music to drive round listening too maybe cheaper brands might be worth a try (sony kenwood jbl)!

i had a kenwood amp for 7yrs in 3 cars and it never gave me any trouble and i always used jbl speakers ,again never any trouble.

Andy

well it seems my amp maybe repairable after all.

i've taken it to sextons who will get a qoute on how much it'll cost and i'll go from there.

Matt

furn said:
that wiring is shocking im an electrician down a mine and see some rough work but that is crap for a professional outfit , sextons should put that right for you.

who said sony and jbl were cheap brands, bull.gif

if you are entering sound offs then high end stuff is worth buying, but if you just want good loud music to drive round listening too maybe cheaper brands might be worth a try (sony kenwood jbl)!

i had a kenwood amp for 7yrs in 3 cars and it never gave me any trouble and i always used jbl speakers ,again never any trouble.

I totally agree with you. I've had my JBL sub and amp now for nearly 4 years, and it's been used every day that I've owned it, and it sounds as good now as it did when I'd just finished running it in.

Andy

i think i'll still buy a new amp but wait untill money isn't so tight lol.

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