Oil pump seal

csd_19

Didn't get a chance to phone and confirm the details of the uber cheap pump, so ended up going for the Autovaux one. Also ordered a new thermostat plus a load of new o-rings, gaskets etc, there goes another pile of pennies...

For the o-rings on the water pump pipe, does it have to be a silicon grease or can I use a rubber-safe grease instead? I've got a tin of the red Rubberlube grease in the garage that I'd forgotten I had 🙂

vocky

I just use a tiny amount of engine oil, but rubberlube will be fine

KevinH

It helps to prevent the 'O' rings from perishing and 'flattening' due to the engine heat which is why silicone grease is recommended (by Haynes) but as mentioned rubberlube should be OK.

csd_19

Cheers Vocky - the biggest problem I'm having with arranging this job is being 2 1/2 hours away from the car, so I'll need to make sure I take everything when I go 🙂

Last thing I need to check is... what size of socket are you using to install the oil seal, or do you have the GM tools? From what I've seen, the oil seal has an OD of 55mm, so I reckoned a 38mm impact socket would probably do it once the outer dimensions are taken into account (be closer to 53mm). It wouldn't need to be a deep socket, just one big enough to push the seal into place.

Kevin,

Thanks again for your input!

KevinH

Yes, that size socket should be fine (as close fit to the the outer diameter as possible).

'Carefully lever the old seal out of the cover using a large flat bladed screwdriver. Fit the new seal to the cover, making sure it's sealing lip is facing inwards. Press/tap the seal into position until it is flush with the cover, using a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal' (Haynes).

csd_19

Afternoon folks - well it's been a windy and fun day stripping bits off to do the chains and the waterpump and the thermostat etc...

Can anyone advise a way to get the crank pulley off as the bolt seems to be a tad stuck?? It's been hit with a 240V impact driver without any luck. Biggest problem I've also got is it's an auto so no way to lock the crank by sticking it into gear and having someone stand on the brakes.

Help!!

csd_19

Right got the bastid off...

Trolley jack & big spanner to lock the pulley, and a massive long blast with the impact gun got it moving. Now it's the fun of that long bolt in the timing case, trying to carefully lower the engine without crushing the power steering pipes against the subframe...

HarleyPete

Yeah @[deleted] said the same thing on mine. Glad you got it undone though.

KevinH

For reference the official tool that Vx dealers use is KM-J-31822-A but Kent Moore tools are very expensive.
Sealey do an equivalent in a setting/locking & coolant pump kit (VSE5875) which includes the camshaft locking tool (KM-6148 equivalent).

Another alternative is to use a long breaker bar with socket on the pulley bolt, rest it on the ground and turn the engine on the starter.

Looks like your well on your way now though. 🙂

evocarlos

you dont really need to remove the cover to do the seal
just pop the old one out with a screwdriver once the crank pulley is out then as vocky said wipe the inside and out side of the seal with oil and push it in with your thumbs

KevinH

but he's renewing the chains 🙂

csd_19

Well tomorrow will see the new waterpump installed, along with the new thermostat and new timing and balance chains - along with new gaskets and bolts everywhere.

At this moment I'll say thanks to everyone who has offered support and advice on this thread so far - cheers all! :cool:

Dave_Gilbert

Not sure if its been said but the guide bolts when refitting make sure you clean out the threads with brake cleaner or similar so they can be tightened correctly.

csd_19

Thanks Dave - that's to protect against stripping the threads isn't it? Couldn't remember where I'd heard about the brake cleaner but I did get some.

Dave_Gilbert

Thats the main thing I remember @[deleted] say about doing the chains.

same with all the bolt holes really that may have got oil in
to make sure theres no oil in them.

its about torque settings the holes have to be dry I believe.

HarleyPete

That's true, this was discussed at some point. It's all to do with torque settings. The oil will make it difficult to torque the bolt down as it will compress a bit and then seep up the thread loosening the bolt again. At least that's how I would assume it would happen.

KevinH

The bolts in the GM kits do not have a problem, it's the pattern kit bolts to be wary of, but it's prudent to clear the threads of any oil.

It's pretty difficult to torque the bolts to 10Nm unless you have a small low setting torque wrench so just a 'nip' will do. 🙂

csd_19

Okay guys... today's question is... what is the best way to install the new style timing tensioner? I've heard of "activating it prior to installation" but I couldn't see it doing anything like the older tensioner did. Pressing on the tensioner rail after installing didn't seem to make much difference either.

Am I missing something obvious here?

KevinH

It is recommended to install the timing chain tensioner activated, that way you know it will function properly.
Be sure that any slack on the chain is toward the rear rail then when fitting ensure the slot in the end of the tensioner engages on the rear guide rail correctly. 🙂

csd_19

Right new Z20NET tensioner removed, pressed against a big bit of wood then reinstalled, now activated 🙂

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