urgent please

al6600

Stopped before I've even started my chain. My crank bolt is half covered by some metal work of the wheel arch don't tell me I have to drop the sub frame, anyone

al6600

Don't worry it's not in the way any more

Dave_Gilbert

Just remove the wheel arch liner and drivers wheel

HarleyPete

When Carl did mine he didn't even remove the o/s/f wheel. He removed the inner arch cover and top engine mount on drivers side.

al6600

For some reason the part of the inner bodywork that has the screw to hold the wheel arch liner is right in front of the bolt I just bent it up

evocarlos

just lower the engine on a jack after removing the engine mount 🙂

al6600

I see that now, it was just was making sure I could get the bolt out before I started which is why I had a problem
Thanks

al6600

Why can't I get the long guide out I've tried pulling it in every direction I even asked it nicely. I have to take sump of later. Forgot to block the opening and dropped a bolt down there aagghhh

al6600

Ah just needed a break to think about it, take it out the top, I must be to tired

HarleyPete

Oh dear, I'm trying to remember how Carl took mine out. Think it was down and out of the bottom once the crank pulley was off.

HarleyPete

Lol, obviously I wasn't paying that much attention, shame on me, lol.

evocarlos

i still say its easier to bring them to me 🙂

al6600

At this point I say it would be easier taking it to you too

al6600

So I think it was the balancer tensioner and chain that was faulty, the timing chain seemed ok but the balancer chain was seriously loose, and now I see how much because it's quite tight now with new one before I even fitted the tensioner, does that sound right

al6600

ive got all the chains back on ,timing marks all line up im surprised how snug they are compared to what i took off.
i had a dirty pants moment, i was tightening the balance chain tensioner and one bolt did not feel right it seemed like it wasnt getting tight then it just went loose, i thought no way its stripped thats gonna be a pita, the bolt was loose so i pulled it out, well half of it anyway as it had sheared, next panic was is there any thread sticking out the block luckily there was plenty and it was very loose .
I re fitted with the old bolt and it torqued up no problem
it quite difficult and took me a few attempts to get the coloured link to sit on the crank timing mark it kept slipping a tooth every time i put the intake cam sprocket on , is it ok that i had to put some tension on the exhaust cam to turn it a bit to get the inlet sprocket on. all the marks line up and my cam locking tool lines up too.
i was also thinking is there no mark on the block to help line up the crank sprocket im sure it would help.
ok one more thing is there a procedure for fitting the sump i have the gm sealant

KevinH

Sounds like you've done the chains perfectly - the slack on the timing chain sits on the exhaust side and you have to rotate the exhaust camshaft slightly when fitting the sprocket, making sure the chain doesn't jump a link when you're not looking 🙂

For the sump, you need to run a 2-2.5mm bead of sealant around the mating face (ensure both faces are clean) and also around the oil intake pipe area. Then offer the sump up and loosely fit all the retaining bolts. Working out from the centre in a diagonal sequence, progressively tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Let the instant gasket dry for an hour or so before filling with oil.

Hope that helps.

al6600

that does help thanks kevin
hate having to wait an hour to fill with oil though lol oh well im sure ill find something else to do i suppose i can do the sump before i put timing cover etc back on

KevinH

The instant gasket does 'go off' quickly but allowing some extra time will help to ensure there are no leaks.
(Incidentally have you fitted a new crankshaft oil seal to the timing cover ? - they have a tendency to leak when they've been disturbed)

Torque settings (from Haynes)
(Edit - read wrong page :confused🙂
Sump bolts:
Sump-to-cylinder block baseplate bolts: 25 Nm / 18 lbf ft
Sump-to-transmission bolts: 40 Nm / 30 lbf ft
Sump drain plug: 25Nm / 18 lbf ft
Timing chain cover bolts : 25Nm / 18 lbf ft

Hope that helps 🙂

al6600

not fitted it yet but i will , thanks that is very helpful and appreciated

evocarlos

http://www.speedsterclub.nl/bibliotheek/technische%20documentatie/tis/Standard%20Information/Engine%20and%20Engine%20Aggregates/00110323-Oil%20Plan,%20Remove%20and%20Install%20(Z22SE).pdf