Think I Need New Piston Rings

evocarlos

personally i would crank the engine off the battery with the coil pack unplugged until the oil pressure lamp goes out before running for real

the oil low could be a stuck sensor but do you have oil on the dipstick ?

IDI_AMIN

evocarlos said:
personally i would crank the engine off the battery with the coil pack unplugged until the oil pressure lamp goes out before running for real

the oil low could be a stuck sensor but do you have oil on the dipstick ?

There was a little on the dipstick so i topped it up more and did not check it again i would say there is roughly 4 litres of oil altogether in there now
but cause of duff battery i never continued waiting for someone to come and give a jump start. can i not just keep turning engine over without removing coilpack will it not eventually kick in anyway?

evocarlos

its better to prime the engine bearings than starting then waiting for pressure
if its got 4l in once the oil filter is filled it will be 0.5l less 🙂

IDI_AMIN

Cool you're the man(y) i will do it how you suggested

IDI_AMIN

Can't get it to kick in may need to get a brand new battery

IDI_AMIN

I am suspecting the timing is slightly out as it still will not fire up. not the actual positioning of the sprockets but maybe the crank was slightly off tdc
I am sure the cam sprockets are in correct position correct me if i am wrong

Not got a pic of crank position but when i think about it, it did move slightly when trying to loosen crank bolt so may have to re set again and do balance timing to be 100% sure but i am sure i read that if balance shafts are cut you do not need to time it

evocarlos

IDI AMIN said:
I am suspecting the timing is slightly out as it still will not fire up. not the actual positioning of the sprockets but maybe the crank was slightly off tdc
I am sure the cam sprockets are in correct position correct me if i am wrong

Not got a pic of crank position but when i think about it, it did move slightly when trying to loosen crank bolt so may have to re set again and do balance timing to be 100% sure but i am sure i read that if balance shafts are cut you do not need to time it

heres the only pic i could find ive colored in the links 🙂

IDI_AMIN

evocarlos said:
heres the only pic i could find ive colored in the links 🙂
[ATTACH]52837[/ATTACH]

I would say that part of mine is fairly accurate do you think then that the crank moving could be my problem .
The last time i put new chains i got it spot on first time beginners luck i think but this time i did not mark my extension bar with some masking tape to show that piston was at it's highest point when i think back this was a mistake

At first i thought it was duff battery but got new battery and still the same . used contact cleaner on injector connectors to see if that was my prob , so i will plug them back on tomorrow spend maybe half an hour there and then probably start stripping down again and redo all to be certain what do you think of that plan of action

evocarlos

you dont need to use the extension bar 🙂
the key on the crank should point straight up to the spark plugs (timing cover off)
the cams should be at 2 o clock EX and 10 o clock INLET over number 4 cylinder gearbox end (you already have this)

at this point you would use the colored links(tipp ex) on the chain to make the timing right

with the lower crank pulley on you would use the notch on the pulley and the mark on the timing case and the cams should be in the same place

IDI_AMIN

evocarlos said:
you dont need to use the extension bar 🙂
the key on the crank should point straight up to the spark plugs (timing cover off)
the cams should be at 2 o clock EX and 10 o clock INLET over number 4 cylinder gearbox end (you already have this)

at this point you would use the colored links(tipp ex) on the chain to make the timing right

with the lower crank pulley on you would use the notch on the pulley and the mark on the timing case and the cams should be in the same place

I would say then what you have described is practically how it was done, i wonder if maybe a little persuasion with some easy start would help
before i got new battery it did seem like it almost kicked in, but i was thinking the poor battery was letting me down and i was using a corsa and some poor jump leads to help jump start
will maybe give it another go tomorrow and double check all connections to make sure i have not missed anything out

IDI_AMIN

Still no joy:banghead: new plugs almost went 1st time, then tried some easy start no difference don't think it's a starter prob i think a compression test is next step
Never quite straight forward with teething probs last time round

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYsn81Whss4

evocarlos

do you have fuel at the rail ?

IDI_AMIN

evocarlos said:
do you have fuel at the rail ?

There is fuel at the rail and also seems to be getting to the plugs as you can smell it on the plugs and they are a little wet also ,the number 2 plug was blacker than the rest before i changed over the plugs for new ones
I am a little lost now

IDI_AMIN

Getting zero readings on compression tester :cry: the haynes tells you this should be done with the engine warm but i need it running to do this so pretty clueless now what to do next
This is a major ball ache i do not know if this is down to the honing i done on the bores to remove the scratches maybe went to far but piston rings were gapped to proper specs after this was done so would assume that would be okay

My baby has died on me :inpain:

evocarlos

sounds like the timing is out
that z22yh i did of lolnuts was only out by 2 links and was no compression

did you do a wet test ?

IDI_AMIN

evocarlos said:
sounds like the timing is out
that z22yh i did of lolnuts was only out by 2 links and was no compression

did you do a wet test ?

Tried the wet test made no difference should i start it all again then redo all timing ,balance and the big one i never touched the balance timing as i am sure i read by you that with balance shafts cut you do not need to time that part, probably should have done it anyway to bee 100%

IDI_AMIN

I have got my crank in position (maybe) but i think it is a little out of position it has been a couple of years since i last done this
So just need someone to confirm , does the crank need turning a little to the right. the key is not quite pointing straight up the way
It is very hard to turn still although it is getting a lot easier it can not be done by turning the wheel by hand, like before fitting new rings, the bolt has to go in and turn using a breaker bar. i also do not have a proper tool for holding crank while loosening bolt i am using a big stilson wrench to grip one of the three spokes. the handle of the wrench catches on the bit sticking out the sub frame this makes it a little trickier for positioning crank although it does work
Will need to search through the forum again for pics of the balance shaft marks to make sure it is done right

evocarlos

edit
pic of the balancer chain markings
note the colored links are not in location but the marks on the sprokets are

IDI_AMIN

Cool. thanks Mr C(y) i think i am right then crank needs a little turn to the right
I've never seen a yellow link on the balance chain before and i have a GM genuine 1

evocarlos

IDI AMIN said:
I've never seen a yellow link

thats the chain from the b207r no idea why it has a yellow link

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