Think I Need New Piston Rings

IDI_AMIN

Thanks for the tips about the knife edging

I felt that these on your rotary tool do the job just as well and give you a bit more control cause i butchered up a couple of ports at the beginning just lack of practice with the burr and maybe only use the burr to widen the port to manifold bit on the head i think it is possible to do the majority of the work with these sanding drums ,
I'm happy now i have managed to sort out the ports i arsed up a bit found these quite useful, recommended for amateurs like myself
Great caution with the burr tool i would advise people

Few pics of the other side not much work left here i feel just they finishing touches in those narrower areas a couple of the tips on the valve guides have copped it

A wee trial with some autosol buffed in with a felt wheel

Gives a nice shine and feels amazing:smuggrin:. nice and smooth should give a better air flow in the end up

1 with auto sol and 1 without it. pretty cool stuff,i am impressed 🙂

evocarlos

yes the burrs you have to be careful with 🙂 ive got the best part of 12years experience with them i have to use them day in and day out at work on the cast iron castings 🙂
i have a good selection but the a bitch on alloy as the flues get clogged up you have to cook them with a blowlamp and wire brush then and keep them dipped in oil the round one is my favorite for porting

as for the drums i made a 6mm bar with a slit in the one end then just load it up with 8" of emery cloth 🙂
to make it sharp again you rip 1" off 🙂

ive got plenty of emery to work with 🙂

IDI_AMIN

Sometimes you catch the shine better without flash

The autosol'd one from another angle . Very nice:smug:

The hardcore side of the burr tool just a lack of experience really

Managed to smooth that to this

Wonder if i could fill it with solder or something worried about going down any further or up as it's the roof part at tensioner end

Is it ok to bring these circled bits in a little more

And a few more pics
i think there is a potential to spend a long long time on this work without knowing when to stop

How does it look apart from my little concerns ?

evocarlos

looks great 🙂
if you put the gasket on then get a few bolts holding it in place you could open the EX ports to the gasket to ""gasket match"" the ports 🙂 you can then take the gasket to the manifold and open the manifold out the same 🙂

and i would still knife edge the bridge in the middle of the port 🙂

IDI_AMIN

Cheers Carl(y)
So would i use one of the thinner burrs to thin out the bridge in the middle then ?
I can imagine it will be tough work to open up the manifold , but it does make sense
What about the little hole i think if it got welded it would maybe warp the port would it be ok to put solder in there or do you think it would be safe to smooth down some more

evocarlos

IDI AMIN said:
Cheers Carl(y)
So would i use one of the thinner burrs to thin out the bridge in the middle then ?
I can imagine it will be tough work to open up the manifold , but it does make sense
What about the little hole i think if it got welded it would maybe warp the port would it be ok to put solder in there or do you think it would be safe to smooth down some more

dont worry about the hole as long as its not thru to the water cavity you will be fine it will soon be filled with soot 🙂

yes a small pointed burr then just do one side and bring the other side to it then polish with a sanding pad after 🙂

IDI_AMIN

Opened up the outlet ports to pretty much the outline of the gasket i would say that job is done

Have had a few setbacks. the replacement piston ring i ordered on ebay , first they send me the wrong one, it was too small and did not meet the specs then when i do get it i break a bit off the side when inserting into bore so had to order another single piston ring set i eventually got it fitted.

Maybe @[deleted] can sort the pic

The replacement single piston set Yenmak is the brand name with a fancy pouch showing which ring is which> These also meet the required specs stated in the Haynes manual

Another little concern before i put sump back on is that the crank is very hard to turn seemed like it was not wanting to rotate but then i got it moving and after a few rotations it turns a little easier but not as freely as i would like it too, i was wondering if this is because there are new rings fitted and eventually it will be a lot easier to move need some advice on this matter if possible

Also the crack on the valve guide is indeed on the inlet side . Ordered one on ebay it is an Fai brand but the dumpling sent me one for a diesel car which is 46mm in length the one for petrol engine is 36mm in length so beware anyone that needs to order one for their self sometime. Information i fed into the drop down menus told me this particular one would fit but kind of my own fault as the Haynes tells you the correct length of the valve guide but never checked that till after it was posted to me.

So these setbacks have caused delays as you can imagine

Also been doing the porting the hard way as i was using the burr bits in a cordless drill which was not much use as i was only getting so much done then having to stop to re-charge the battery up. So taking a lot longer than it should have this was also the cause of heavy dig marks in the port areas which i never realised until after buying an electric drill the burr was giving a finish which was quite smooth and was not quite hardcore as i first thought. it was the cordless drill which was the problem

Matt

Sorted the picture for you 🙂

evocarlos

the crank will be hard to turn with new rings and honed bores
put some oil on the bores and see if its smother

IDI_AMIN

I think i am done with all the porting business just a final run over with some autsol to add a little bling . It's starting to do my head in to be honest . Sometimes you are doing it and think this is good fun and other times you are like this is doing my tits in.
So how does it look now i think i have knife edged it as best i can, if i go anymore i think the centre bit will collapse🙂

And i have the correct size valve guide now, it looks the same at both ends so i don't think it matters which way round it goes in .
But which way do you put it in, is it down through the valve area or from the camshaft area . do you just smack out the old one with a round punch and same for putting in the new one ?

evocarlos

heres how i did pauls 6mm and 3mm flat cut punch the 3 mm had tape on to make the gap up to 6mm so it could pass thru the head to get the guide all the way out also use a heat gun to apply a little heat around said cracket guides to ease their removal
https://z22se.co.uk/threads/cam-chain-fitted-part-1-day-1.24072/#post-1209077

and heres the info for refitting you will need a set of caliper

porting looks great 🙂

IDI_AMIN

Carl's the man with all the info. Is the caliper to measure the height of the valve guide

evocarlos

IDI AMIN said:
Carl's the man with all the info. Is the caliper to measure the height of the valve guide

yes mate when you tap them in they need to be 11.2-11.5mm up so the valve stem seal fits on

evocarlos

evocarlos said:
yes mate when you tap them in they need to be 11.2-11.5mm up so the valve stem seal fits on

top tip put the valve guides in the freezer over night before fitting should make them a little easier to go in just tap carefully

IDI_AMIN

evocarlos said:
top tip put the valve guides in the freezer over night before fitting should make them a little easier to go in just tap carefully

Ok Carl you are that good you are quoting yourself now(y)

evocarlos

evocarlos said:
top tip put the valve guides in the freezer over night before fitting should make them a little easier to go in just tap carefully

it must of been late or early 🙂 lol^

IDI_AMIN

I have another dilemma I realise that I have 2 cracked valve guides 1 is worse I only have 1 new one with no chance of getting one till Monday tried to remove 1 from another head it broke how hard is it to put new 1 in I am now worried about putting new 1 in fearing I break this also do you use oil to insert it @[deleted] have you broken any new ones putting them in

evocarlos

is your punch flat faced ? i broke the 1st one i ever did then after that they were all good ive never actully fitted new ones yet only used ones that were in good condition
i never used anything on refitting just tapped them home clean sharp blows with a 2lb hammer and the head on 2 blocks of 2x4 wood

IDI_AMIN

yes flat faced but not big enough have slightly mushroomed the head also really need the car running for Monday so panic mode again
so that did not happen to you then with mushroom where valve was a little tricky to push in

evocarlos

IDI AMIN said:
yes flat faced but not big enough have slightly mushroomed the head also really need the car running for Monday so panic mode again
so that did not happen to you then with mushroom where valve was a little tricky to push in

nope they came clean out

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