kenwood headunit.

evocarlos

Matt said:
Was just going to suggest that again. Swap the yellow and the red wires around on the back of the HU. Most have bullet connectors to allow you to do this easily.

Simon Ward said:
As above 🙂

deja vu 🙂

PowR_Remap

Lol

m4rtin

Thanks for yoyr help guys I swapped the connectors over and bought an ariel adaptor and it works fine now apart from the steering wheel controls but not too bothered atm.

One mote question lol! The remote turn on for the subwoofer, can I wire this in to the boot light? I've been told it will work fine by a friend who has done his this way. It would save a lot of hassle taking the hu out and having to find which one I need to splice.

PowR_Remap

If you wire the remote lead to the boot light, the amp will only come on when the boot is open, as far as I know, as its switched feed from when the boot is opened.

Either that or it will always be on and end up draining your battery.

I would suggest the proper way from the HU, from what I gather in the past, its usually the blue/white wire but you will have to consult your manual first to make sure.

evocarlos

the boot light is not going to work unless you have the boot open every time you want the amp on
it needs to be powered on by the blue wire from the back of your head unit

and when you see your mate slap him and say stop talking bollocks 🙂 for giving you bad advice lol

Matt

As mentioned already, you need to take the 5v feed from the blue wire that is on the back of the HU. It's usually labelled remote feed as well.

m4rtin

Haha I was thinking it wouldn't work but thought I best make sure first. Now you mention it the harness adaptor does have a blue wire doing nothing so this is clearly it! Thanks for the excellent help and advice as always guys 🙂 now hopefully one final question... Where's the best place to take the earth from? The lead I've got is only 2.5 feet long so can't be far haha.

Matt

m4rtin said:
Haha I was thinking it wouldn't work but thought I best make sure first. Now you mention it the harness adaptor does have a blue wire doing nothing so this is clearly it! Thanks for the excellent help and advice as always guys 🙂 now hopefully one final question... Where's the best place to take the earth from? The lead I've got is only 2.5 feet long so can't be far haha.

I always used one of the seatbelt bolts on the rear bench for my earthing point. Just make sure you file away any paint in the way to get a good contact.

evocarlos

as above but all dependant on if your end fits the bolt the samller rings need drilling to fit the seat belt bolt 🙂

m4rtin

Ok cheers. Now going to sound thick here but where about are these located? The bolts I mean.

Matt

m4rtin said:
Ok cheers. Now going to sound thick here but where about are these located? The bolts I mean.

Drop the back seats forward and you'll be able to see them.

evocarlos

lift up the rear seat bottom and there just at the bottom of the back (upright) in the middle of the car
in the right of this pic 🙂

edit_ matt beat me to it lol

PowR_Remap

I actually have the earth screwed on to the rear light securing bolts.

I crimped a ring end on the earth lead, unscrewed one of the light fixings and slotted the ring terminal over that, then just did up the fixing again.

Although mine might no be the correct way... :-/

evocarlos

Simon Ward said:
I actually have the earth screwed on to the rear light securing bolts.
Although mine might no be the correct way... :-/

mine would melt the wiring or weld the light bolt to the car if i did it that way my amps draws to much 🙂 120amp(total maximum load) draw
the piss take is the battery is 70amp the fuse for the 0 gauge is 200amp the battery would explode before the cable went🙂

m4rtin

Well its all in and working now 🙂 sounds awesome don't know why I didn't get a sub sooner! The manual says it need to be broken in over 30 hrs so its only on half way atm so should be well and truly broke in for pvs 🙂. Thanks for all the help and info guys, excellent as always! Will get pics up soon

Matt

m4rtin said:
Well its all in and working now 🙂 sounds awesome don't know why I didn't get a sub sooner! The manual says it need to be broken in over 30 hrs so its only on half way atm so should be well and truly broke in for pvs 🙂. Thanks for all the help and info guys, excellent as always! Will get pics up soon

Yes, you need to run the subs in to make sure you don't damage the voice coils on them.

daz1074

If you do want to wire in steering wheel controls, the parts you need are PC99-X06 and PC99-KEN. Both these parts are Autoleads part numbers and can be found easily on eBay and in halfords. As I say both parts are needed. Quick easy job to retro fit at a later date if needed.

m4rtin

So finally got round to taking some pics. Probably not tue best or most exciting install but considering ive never done anything like this I'm happy with the result. Thanks for all the grest help and info along the way 🙂

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