Rattle on start up??

evocarlos

i can 100% guarantee they will be in the sump under the metal plate
heres a pic with the tray removed you may need to take out the pickup pipe to and make sure the end is clear

looking at your leftovers alans was a bit worse the front chain guide had been eaten and dropped in the sump

Burnzi

The leftovers out of the sump strainer needs cleaned out like any one stripped the oil pump are any gaskets or o rings needed

Burnzi

evocarlos

the alloy chunk is part of your engine broken off and the spring i think may be from the alloy chain guide as you can see somthing sticking out of it
here the oil pump overhaul manual for a vx220 🙂
http://tinyurl.com/pctygm7

Burnzi

I just want to check to make sure no bits of plastic are kicking around in the pump housing after that im not botherd the filter can catch them hopefully the spring and metal bit are tiny the camera makes them look bigger ill check the block and head when i rebuild it to see if i can see where its from i suspect it will be around the chain guide thats smashed to bits area cheers for oil pump info

Burnzi

Sump and oil pump all cleaned out a few plastic shavings in the oil pump like just the chain to fit now and sell it lol

evocarlos

dont forget to activate the tensioner 🙂
would be ashame to sell it now you have gone to the effort of fixing it

Burnzi

I couldin sell it its had all round discs and pads new exhaust and by next week 2 timing chains they sell for peanuts it wouldint be worth it plus i like the car

Dave_Gilbert

looks messy, i still need to do mine(still original at 72500) but im going to practice on a couple of z10xe and a z12xe engine first.i think you have been very lucky reading through your thread. nice 1

vx-chris

david gilbert said:
looks messy, i still need to do mine(still original at 72500) but im going to practice on a couple of z10xe and a z12xe engine first.i think you have been very lucky reading through your thread. nice 1

Get evocarlos to do it mate and save yourself the hassle.
He has just done mine and its the best it's ever ran since I've had it 🙂

Dave_Gilbert

We did speak about it but hes about an hour n half away from me and he said to allow for 6 hours for the job i think, so it would be 3 hours driving and 6 for the job. but i still mite get him to do it me. Nice 1

Burnzi

Probally the luckiest z22se outthere. I just went for it one day ive did a few timing belts in the past so thought how hard can it be but at the time i didint know about this site so failed badly at my first z22se timing chain all because of a unactivated tensioner sumps going back on this week balance shafts gettin timed up and cam chain fitted hopefully

evocarlos

david gilbert said:
We did speak about it but hes about an hour n half away from me and he said to allow for 6 hours for the job i think, so it would be 3 hours driving and 6 for the job. but i still mite get him to do it me. Nice 1

im all but a pm away 🙂

Burnzi

It would be worth it david doing it earlier before the chain is loose enough to chip away at the guides it will save the job being longer by not having to take the sump off unless they are already broke away you just dont know i was shocked with mine didint expect to see as much damage as i found suprised it still ran

Dave_Gilbert

i know i know, it needs doing its just cash and time, on another note has anybody done a timing chain on a z10xe engine? iv got 2 1.0 timing chains and a 1.2 timing chain im 99.9% sure there all the same kit. i know there not the right engine but corsa-c.co.uk are really helpful(NOT) and theres alot more room in the engine bay on them. sorry for highjacking this thread, i should start a new 1 nice 1

Haydn_Meager

I did my chain about a month ago and also have a rattle when starting. I have always questioned whether the tensioner activated or not. I wound it it then once fitted pressed on the guide rail, but starting to think i might have to take it back off. Glad you saved your engine though mate.

vx-chris

Haydn Meager said:
I did my chain about a month ago and also have a rattle when starting. I have always questioned whether the tensioner activated or not. I wound it it then once fitted pressed on the guide rail, but starting to think i might have to take it back off. Glad you saved your engine though mate.

Did you activate it before you put it in the block or just put it in and hoped it would do it itself?

Burnzi

If its the flat head tensioner id just change it to the z20net tensioner but you can remove the rocker cover and see if the chain is slack between the cams

evocarlos

Burnzi said:
If its the flat head tensioner id just change it to the z20net tensioner but you can remove the rocker cover and see if the chain is slack between the cams

to be fair the flat tensioner with the nicks in ain't that bad just that it can come apart if the chain is stretched and rail is broken at the front
the slack in the chain between the cams dont mean much and the the slack is removed that the rear where the tensioner and rear rail sit if you had slack between the cams you would just turn the crank in the rotation direction till the slack was at the rear then fit the tensioner
the timing tool is good for checking if cams and bottom sprocket line up right 🙂

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