turns over, not start

brchippy

Hi all,
I cant manage to start my astra coupe 2.2. It has a recon engine in it about 2 years old.
Before I gave it an oil change/flush, the tappets seemed a little noisey, so whilst doing oil change I took camshaft cover off to see if any oil was getting up there, I cranked the engine over with the starter motor and saw oil around my chain and some appeared around the rocker areas.

I then disconnected the battery as I was going to poke around in there with my fingers (like you do).

Anyhow boxed it all back up and I cant get the thing to fire up, just turns engine over but wont start.

Not sure if my key is synchronised or not, I can unlock/lock the doors with the keyfob buttons.

It doesn't do any synchronising when I put key in ignition and turn to all lights on dash are on and then press unlock or lock. Does that mean its already synchronised.
I have checked all wires are plugged in and earth strap bolted back to cam cover, so don't know why it wont start up now.
Any ideas?
Thanks

IDI_AMIN

maybe you fucked the starter motor, out of petrol,or get a new battery for your key fob

brchippy

IDI AMIN said:
maybe you fucked the starter motor, out of petrol,or get a new battery for your key fob

Starter motor is turning the engine over as stated above
Put petrol in Friday afternoon, not been able to drive it since then as it wont start up.
keyfob battery is ok it locks and unlocks the doors no problem.

IDI_AMIN

plenty power in your battery ? or you must have missed a plug or wire somewhere or put the earth on the wrong place the work you done should not affect the car starting

brchippy

IDI AMIN said:
plenty power in your battery ? or you must have missed a plug or wire somewhere or put the earth on the wrong place the work you done should not affect the car starting

Battery power could have been a bit low when I first tried to start it, so I will charge it up tonight to be sure its full.
thanks

brchippy

I tried again with battery fully charged still wont start up, put strobe light on a couple plugs plug to see if getting electric to plugs and it flashed when turning over engine.

Next step to phone scrap man Friday to take it away, its no use to me parked up.

evocarlos

do you have fuel in the rail ? does the pump prime when you turn the ignition on?

jwalker

did you undo any earth connections when you removed the cam cover?

brchippy

evocarlos said:
do you have fuel in the rail ? does the pump prime when you turn the ignition on?

Not sure, how can I check , how best to see fuel without risk of fire?

brchippy

jwalker said:
did you undo any earth connections when you removed the cam cover?

Yes the one fastened to cam cover at back right corner, near the lifting eye, its back on.

I think am going to have an auto electrician take a look at weekend.

Unless its the fuel side that I can do something with, not sure how best to check that.

evocarlos

well normally when you turn the key you have the pump prime the fuel rail you can hear it do you have this ?
if you do then the next step would be to take the key out then put on some safety specs and bleed the rail if it squirts fuel out then you have fuel to the rail

brchippy

I don't hear it prime,
there is a bit of fuel there, when I unscrewed the black bleed screw and pressed the pin some fuel came out but not squirt more like dribble.

evocarlos

made a vid you can hear the pump priming 🙂

brchippy

evocarlos said:
made a vid you can hear the pump priming 🙂

Thanks for the video, I know the priming noise now I hear in the video.

No mine is not priming, and the pressure is low, just a dribble not a squirt like in your video.

I've been reading some stuff on here about the fuel pump and imobiliser and how the car may have to go to the dealers to get sorted out.
Just wondering if this may be the case here for me.

Can the spark from reconnecting the battery lead cause some of the electrics to go a bit haywire?

evocarlos

check you fuel pump fuse in the engine bay
does your engine light flash when you try to start the car ? if it do then the immobiliser is active

in the past ive had my car off the road for 8 or so months and tried to start the car from a battery with jump leads i could not get it going and had to ring the aa he disconnected the battery and shorted the two terminals together with a big screw driver after that it started he said it was staic from all the batteries i had connected

brchippy

evocarlos said:
check you fuel pump fuse in the engine bay
does your engine light flash when you try to start the car ? if it do then the immobiliser is active

in the past ive had my car off the road for 8 or so months and tried to start the car from a battery with jump leads i could not get it going and had to ring the aa he disconnected the battery and shorted the two terminals together with a big screw driver after that it started he said it was staic from all the batteries i had connected

All 8 fuses in engine bay are good
I insert key into ignition then turn the key until dash lights on, the yellow light(shaped like an engine) between the battery and oil lights flashes twice really quickly then stays on, even when I crank the engine it stays permanently lit.

evocarlos

did you try your spare key ?

brchippy

evocarlos said:
did you try your spare key ?

Not sure I have a spare key, I cant remember me having another key to be honest, well that's my nights entertainment sorted out a game of hunt the key🙁

evocarlos

if for some reason your immobiliser chip is not coded or snapped in half it wont start you need to go go gadget find that key 🙂
you know anyone with opcom local ? im sure you check if there programmed to the ecu with it

brchippy

evocarlos said:
if for some reason your immobiliser chip is not coded or snapped in half it wont start you need to go go gadget find that key 🙂
you know anyone with opcom local ? im sure you check if there programmed to the ecu with it

Have an auto electrician coming around Friday afternoon, sure he'll find the problem, hopefully not an expensive one.

Thanks for your help