Tubbe At the moment I really don't like to drive with the car because it feels like it is braking all the time under 4000rpm. How the car should change after the pipercams because it really has lost all the low rpm torque and at the moment nothing happens before 4000rpm. Also when I turn the car off the engine keeps rotating much longer than before the cams were installed. It really feels like low compression notsure.gif And like I said before it constantly every now and then shoots to the exhaust in the idle and the car is vibrating a lot in the idle. When I accelerate lightly the car jerks at 2000rpm and after that keeps going on. Sometimes it starts to jerk at 2000rpm even when not accelerating so it's not very nice to drive at the moment. How would the one teeth miss in the timing affect to the car because at the moment I'm pretty sure that the timing is out 🙁 And still one notice that I have made is that when i change gear at the 2000rpm the car rises the rpm to 3000 even when foot is of the pedal dunno.. I can put a video of the idle for you if there is any help from it.
JohnnyN It would be advisable to recheck the timing. 1 tooth out will make all the difference. There are 46 teeth on the sprocket so the cam could be 7.8 degrees out to one another.
Tubbe I was thinking that can I check the timing by removing the rocker cover and then put the crank pulley to tdc mark and then look if the locking tool goes to it's palce in the camshaft sprockets? The only problem is that I donät know where the crank pulley mark is and where is the other mark on the block?
Tubbe Okay checked the timing today and it was out so problem solved. Luckily it didn't kill any valves from the head. Car works really nice now and the powerband is nice. Now I could be driving unless there wouldn't be oil and water mixing 🙁 Is there any possibility that the water could get to the oil from the waterpump because it has been leaking and I think that the waterpump is still original. Also the car has been drinking coolant all the time but know it drinks the bottle to empty very fast when the revs are above 3000rpm 🙁 I have been thinking that the car should give white smoke if the head had cracked or the head gasket had gone but there isn't very much white smoke. Off course there is coming white smoke from the exhaust because of the cold weather in Finland but last year smoke amount was equal and it wasn't drinking coolant this much. Is it very common that the z22se head will crack? The car has 245000km in it so it's about 153000 miles. I would really hope that changing the waterpump would do the trich because if the head has gone it would make sense to replace piston rings and stuff like that at the same time but my money situation isn't that good at the moment.
vocky water can get into the oil from the water pump shaft seal, the oil seal is a very common failure. However the oil usually leaks out of the pump - covering it in oil. the z22se head does crack when the spark plugs are over-tightened :thumbdown:
Tubbe Hopefully the problem is the waterpump but I'm afraid that when I'm in contact with this kind of problem it's always the most expensive way to fix it. Well I have to be honest I was very lucky with the head as the valves didn't broken when the timing was out :thumbup: The recommended torque value for spark plugs is 25nm and I have always used the 30nm in my torque wrench. When I removed the spark plugs todat they came off easily so no overtightening.
jwalker I think you'd know if the head was cracked as I think the spark plug would be surrounded by water
Tubbe Is it possible that the head gasket has gone but there are no other symptoms than mixing oil and water? There might have been a smell of exhaust fumes in the expansion tank, but im not sure and no bubbles in the bottle while running. So what does that mean then?
Tubbe So yesterday took off the head no visible problems or cracks. When the head was still on I pressurised the coolant system and the coolant was leaking to the timing chain chamber from the head gasket area. The water was coming down from somekind of channel of the timing chain chamber but when I took off the head there weren't any channel in that position in the head so where is the water coming from to the timing chain area? Also I noticed that my engine is running out of it's life because the pistons were moving sideways in the cylinders no matter in what position the piston was. So that's not good or at least I think so. Can the block be fixed by honing and putting new piston rings or do I need to fit oversized pistons or something like that? The engine sounds okay when driving and it burns oil about some amount that all the other engines with bad piston rings so about 1L/1000-1500km What about if buy a z22yh block can it be fitted to the vecy b and with the z22se head?
Tubbe Sorry for offtopic but I continue writing to this topic about my oi andl coolant mixing. So the engine have been in bits and now it has honed block and new piston rings. Also the head gasket, water pump seal and head bolts are new. The problem is still there the water gets in to the oil. Yesterday when I was emptying the oil I noticed that it smells like fuel o_O The car drinks all the coolant from the expansion tank in about 10 miles... The coolant isn't mixing to the oil until the car reaches operating temperature so about 80 it starts to leak. Could this be a cracked head as I'm not getting any coolant to the plugs but all the pistons have moisture on top of them? Car runs fine and no extra pressure in the coolant system. Could someone give me any tip what to do next. The water pump was fine when I checked it so I didn't change it. So the water pump seal is also the option for leak? What about the block I have read that it isn't very common that it fails.
vocky If the water pump seals have failed you will get water into the timing chain area, so you have two choices - it's either the water pump or the cylinder head
Tubbe Problem solved. It was as expected the cylinder head. I put 1,5 bar compressed air to the cooling system and I could hear the water dripping inside the rocker cover. Right now the car works nice, I only put some cooling patch material to the coolant and gave it some time to cycle in the cooling system. After that new pressure test was made and no water leak sound under the rocker cover :thumbup: I wasn't very interested in buying new cylinder head at the moment because I have just made the headwork and complete recondition to the old one. If the head starts to leak water again then I'm going to search for new head. Right now I'm happy with the old one 🙂 Also the engine reconditioning seems to be okay it's not burning oil anymore and when driving I can feel that the car pulls much stronger than before :thumbup:
BURT150 It more than likely wont settle until about 2-300 miles. I didn't know what to make of mine when the good doc fitted them in. It was lumpy to the point of cutting out and didnt drive very well at all but they settled eventually and it still hesetates out of junctions if you dont give it some stick but thats normal really. What people dont understand is cams are a great but they always effect the idle. The more agressive cams you get the worse the idle is. Once they settle youl get used to it and be happyer hitting the loud peddle😉