PIPER CAMS FITTED, NEED ADVICE!!!! PLEASE

monkeynuts

Hi guys,

I was wondering if anyone can shed any light on this for me?! I have fitted my re profiled cams from piper this weekend and have started experiencing some drivability issues after a few days. Could someone please tell me what to expect from these cams, I.e. what is the idle like? as mine is quite erratic down in the 680-700 area, i am also experiencing a slight hesitation/misfire on pulling away from traffic lights etc (Light throttle command and de-cel) over 1000 rpm the car runs an absolute dream pulls really well through all the gears etc, its just this idling issue/ low throttle mis fire. Now i timed it up exactley as it should be nd am dubious as wethter this is down to timing because as ive said above 100rpm its great and i am not experiencing any hard starting etc etc. Have people on here got any advice i.e is a remap essential for these, and is there any way of raising my base idle by about 100rpm which would cure it.
Also the problem seems to get worse the warmer the engine gets (90°c stat teritory) when cold it is no problem.

I hae recently had the inlt manifold and am wondering wether these problems could be down to an air leak??

Any help or advice would be hugely appreciated as im tearing my hair out now?!

thanks

jwalker

I also have piper cams and the idle is slightly lumpy, but this has got better with time. I didn't remap the car and I have no problems below 1000rpm, they were a direct replacement for the standard cams.

I would double check the timing to make sure it is completely lined up correctly. Or try disconnecting the battery for half an hour to reset the ECU and see if it changes anything?

monkeynuts

jwalker said:
I also have piper cams and the idle is slightly lumpy, but this has got better with time. I didn't remap the car and I have no problems below 1000rpm, they were a direct replacement for the standard cams.

I would double check the timing to make sure it is completely lined up correctly. Or try disconnecting the battery for half an hour to reset the ECU and see if it changes anything?

yea i am thinking this too, spose it only has to be a tooth out, just runs too well over 100 though?! thanks for you advice mate as it all helps.

vocky

have you fitted an egr blanking plate and cleaned your throttle body dunno..

monkeynuts

vocky said:
have you fitted an egr blanking plate and cleaned your throttle body dunno..

Haver cleaned my throttle body, what is the advantage of blanking the egr then? doesnt that put the mil light on?

In a twist to the tale, i unplugged the pre cat lambda sensor last night so the car was effectively running open loop and the car runs an absolute dream, of course it has put the mil light on but i dont care about this for now. So this would suggest the problem is in the map and it needs re mapping?! I cant see it still being an air leak because the idle is lovely now and no misfires atall!!

I would love to know the advantages of blocking the egr etc though?!

rushy

If the EGR is healthy, then blanking it but keeping it in the loom will work fine with no lights. However you can take it out of the car completely by blanking it and fitting a cheater thats sold in the club shop. :thumbup: VX blank the EGR on the 2.2 rather than refitting so no harm done. For me its keeping the inlet clean even with the cam breather connected as normal with no catch tank.

https://z22se.co.uk/shop/egr-cheater

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=17115

jwalker

I don't see why changing the cams would suddenly give problems with the EGR?

poundy

jwalker said:
I don't see why changing the cams would suddenly give problems with the EGR?

are these cams any good as i have head bad things about piper cams?

monkeynuts

I would hope the cams are good. But why does it run fine with the lambda unplugged?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

poundy

monkeynuts said:
I would hope the cams are good. But why does it run fine with the lambda unplugged?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

i had heard that they arent particularly good thats all.
hopefully they will be all good

Sjdickso

People have mixed views on them, if you do a search on here most that have had them fitted suffer from very lumpy idle and stalling etc at lower revs esp from setting off.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjugXFuxG0c
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjugXFuxG0c
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I presume they need to be mapped to operate correctly dunno.., but then that opens a can of worms as we hear so many mixed stories about the ECU mapping with the z22.

Matt

Don't they normally increase the idle RPM when more aggressive cams are fitted to stop it being lumpy at tick over?

jwalker

When I fitted mine I just did a direct swap and disconnected the battery for 30mins. When I fired it up and the idle settled down, it was a bit lumpy but I had no issues driving it.

A couple of months on, it's settled down much more and it's not as noticeable.

However I also run my car on LPG - it does stall and can be a nightmare when maneuvering at low speeds! Fine on petrol though.

No idea about what's going on with the lambda sensor though, sorry

Sjdickso

I dont know anything about LPG but maybe it needs resetting for more or less LPG to be used with the new setup at lower RPM?

jwalker

It's ok on LPG, just not at very low speeds.

To the OP, try and disconnect your battery for a while, see if it helps at all

MikeS

remember speaking to burt about it and he said it takes time to get use to piper cams at low revs

i chose not to fit em as i live in a busy area stop /starting

astra22bertoneauto

Matt said:
Don't they normally increase the idle RPM when more aggressive cams are fitted to stop it being lumpy at tick over?

I think they do Matt. The cams ive had did have a lumpy idle but when i touched the accel. pedal just enough to increase revs to just under 900/1000rpm car ticked over nicely.

However with aggresive cams, a lumpy idle and a massive oval tail pipe it dont arf sound nice!

Tubbe

Okay yesterday I changed the cams and I now have the pipers on. The problem is the hugh hesitation when driving and a real lack of power in my opinion. I still have the original downpipe section (precat+main cat) because of the mot that was a couple of weeks ago. The car dont seem to know where the idle is. When I drive in about 3000rpm and then lift my foot away from the pedal the car starts to engine brake but when it reaches 2000rpm it starts to inject fuel. With the original cams the injection started again in about 1100rpm after engine brake. The second thing is that the fuel consumption in idle doupled :wtf: is that normal I didn't expect it to raise that much? Also when the car is idling you can sometimes hear sneezing from the exhaust? The timing should be spot on because I used locking tool and didint touch the chain at all in the process. At the moment I'm afraid of the engine running lean because it really feels that there isn't the power that there should be? Today I'm going to change my 2,5" downpipe back on and hope that something happens 😃

MikeS

unplug ecu for 30 mins

Tubbe

Okay I have now changed the downpipe section to my own 2,5" and unplugged battery for 1-2h and the car feels better, not still good to drive when low rpm and still hesitating but at least it's better than what it was yesterday :thumbup: I know it takes a long time before the car learns the new parametres to the ecu but how many miles approx I should drive before I can say that it wont get better. I have now driven about 20miles after the reset and I think that the car keeps going better all the time. Maybe I just need to drive much more and see what it does in the end. One stupid question, is there any possibility that the car would run lean while driving and result an engine break because at the moment I don't want that to happen 😃