Start up after overhaul.

colin002

piston 1 and 4 will be both tdc ...rotate the crank till tdc and make sure the rear lobes of the cams are ,exhaust roughly 1 o clock
and the inlet 11 o clock .. rear meaning gearbox side ...

jwalker

As above, pistons 1 and 4 reach TDC together. You can't have the crank at the wrong TDC, the woodruff key at the timing end should be at the top. If you've got the cams in the right position as colin just said then the chain should go on with the coloured links against the timing marks and the timing should be ok

sandyc

That's what I have done. Im going to recheck it all on sunday along with a few other things.

sandyc

Grrrr. My local VX stealer messed up my order and got me a pair of crank pulley bolts instead of the cam sprocket bolts. To top it all off every time Ive gone outside and popped the bonnet the clouds burst. I discovered my ECU wasnt earthed very well so Ive sorted that but still no difference. I cant get the correct boltsfrom a decent VX dealer till tuesday now.
Im going to rip it apart and re check it all again on my day off on tuesday.
I got no fault codes so Im ruling out a sensor issue.
It could only be the timing still out as it pops out of the air intake when it cuts out.
Either that or the fuel pressure regulator. I had to transfer my old one onto a new fuel rail because the threads on the inlet stripped when I undid it.
Given the cost of petrol these days a gallon of unleaded and a box of Swan Vesta's is going to be another expensive route to sort it out.

sandyc

Right,
Timing done again. Cant possibly be wrong now.
New set of genuine VX inlet manifold gaskets fitted dry with no sealent.
TPS, ECU and most electrical connections cleaned with aerosol contact cleaner.
There were no fault codes whenI had it scanned however when the engine cuts out the coolant light comes on and the cooling fans cut in.
Its still popping like mad when I try to rev it and it simply cuts out after a few seconds.
Im now suspecting the CTS and/ or the crank sensor and perhaps the fuel pressure regulator.

astra22bertoneauto

CTS sensor is ignored till engine starts getting upto temp.
Crank sensor = car would not start at all

Fuel pressure try pinching return pipe a little bit (not completely.

jwalker

Do you have an Astra?

There is a coolant control module behind the front bumper on the passenger side, check the connections although maybe it's on its way out dunno..

sandyc

Finally after much headscratching, swearing and threatening to torch the thing ITS ALIVE.... :-)
Ive spent another day on it as all the symptoms were pointing to the timing. Ive messed about with that, still the same.
Then I decided to check the fuel pressure, nowt again. So I crimped the return pipe and bosh it ran sweet although there is fuel spraying from the return pipe or the fuel rail therefore it aint maintaining pressure.
Early morning scrappy trip is in order tomorrow for a new fuel rail and while Im at it I'll pick up a coil pack for my now spluttering Vectra which will be up for sale next month as Im looking for a Frontera for the winter.

astra22bertoneauto

Glad you found the problem :thumbup:

I had a fuel rail do this to me once. Return connection started coming away from the rail..... :shock:

sandyc

It may simply be the O rings or it may be a crack in the rail. Im going to see if I can get some O rings from VX along my travels tomorrow. I'll dig out a roll of PTFE tape for good measure too.

astra22bertoneauto

If you do need another fuel rail i have 1 spare that i have tested working. Also got spare injectors & FPR.

sandyc

I wish I'd looked here before I ordered one on Ebay. :evil:
Ive just traipsed round 2 of the largest scrappies in my area looking for one with no joy.
Never mind it wasnt a waste of time.I treated my Vectra to a new coil pack and it seems happy now.
Also picked up a couple of cheap but good batteries to get the other 2 jalopys in my garden started too.
Thanks anyway mate.

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