ATOM_X JohnnyN said: My chin nearly hit the floor for a few minutes until you wrote that you had mechanical intervention from a lathe and balance. Fair play to you! Never thought that i'd see material being removed from a flywheel by the means of an angle grinder?? :thumbup: Antipodean engineering Fact Qantas airlines have the best air accident record in the world Opinion "Worlds Fastest Indian" best film in the world But iI will never send my dynamic balancing to B & B
cavaddict Bloody ell!!! Angle grinder eh. Liking it and top marks 😃 Gotta say though....think i'll stick to milling the front and turning the rear. Made the boss to hold it on both machines now, so i'll be doing some serious cutting this week!! :buffer
b_b_custom cavaddict said: Bloody ell!!! Angle grinder eh. Liking it and top marks 😃 Gotta say though....think i'll stick to milling the front and turning the rear. Made the boss to hold it on both machines now, so i'll be doing some serious cutting this week!! :buffer hi mate, & sorry about this long post i'v gone into a bit of detail. & thank's to all the positive remark's as well :thumbup: **Our old man taught us if there is a will there is a way **yep & done a good job to i reckon 😃 , Wish i had access to a mill as well 🙁 would of saved a lot of hard work :buffer . Most people do get at surprise what can be done manually :o . The verniers i used were digtal for accuracy & i measured the scollops in [i can't remember] i think it was 8 or 10 different spots, from the top of the scollop on the inside down on to the clucth surface & on the outside down on to the starter ring gear so that i knew it would be flat & even. I sat the clutch plate inside the flywheel & marked all the way around to give me a guide mark berore i started grinding went to it as close as i could & then started the file finishing :buffer . the hardist part was getting the preasure plate post accurate lot's of measuring & remeasuring :crazy: I never took any thing off the height of the post's get's done when clutch surface is done to keep the right preasure on the clucth plate. so if you are going to machine the hole of the top surface you will have to take the same depth of material off the clucth surface you probley know this anyway [i'm just being cautious]Here's some more pic's you might be able to use. this is the groove i measured [ no deeper than the tapper ]so the machinest could lathe off the outside edge of the flywheeli think it was 3.5-4mm instructions for machineist looks like this after machining front of flywheel before machining after, the low righting is there just for refrence for the machineist as this side of the fly wheel was low in this area in the begining [not from my filing] back of fly wheel before machining, notice the rasied edge above the ring gear only the height of this was taken off no extra, the ring gear still has the same amount of surface area retaining it on that it originaly had a must have after, i did not go any further into the center because i have concerns about to much heat build up whitch would cause the fly wheel to fail [ever seen the carnage from a shattered fly wheel it's not good] you can see the balancing mark's i did not do this neither due to the same concerns as with the back of the fly wheel hope it is of some help cheers.. b&b
cavaddict Yeah, with regards to the posts, we have a dividing head on a Bridgeport at work so this makes getting all the posts the same size a whole lot easier. Still think i may be taking a bit more out of the back than you have as this is a very thick section and could certainly stand to lose a bit of meat. Still well impressed by your work though there mate :clap:
JohnnyN Looks quite an average tool room lathe to me. I went for a job interview at a company called Bristol Tool & Gauge going back 15 years ago. The chuck that they had there was so large in diameter that I was able to stand upright in the jaws!! :shock:
Blue_2_2 JohnnyN said: Looks quite an average tool room lathe to me. I went for a job interview at a company called Bristol Tool & Gauge going back 15 years ago. The chuck that they had there was so large in diameter that I was able to stand upright in the jaws!! :shock: That is big! what the heck to they make? Im not a machinist (any more) i use to make aluminium sex toys!!!!!
JohnnyN Rather large components for Rolls Royce Filton amongst other things. Babcocks just down the road from us have a massive turning centre too. They produce work for Rolls Royce Marine and Nuclear Power.
cavaddict Yeah its getting there. Yeah this is just the run of the mill toolroom lathe, nothing like our cnc stuff. Got a bit more done today including finishing the post off 😃
cavaddict hoping for somewhere around the 4kg range....think it may be slightly over, but it will be close.
ATOM_X cavaddict said: hoping for somewhere around the 4kg range....think it may be slightly over, but it will be close. sorry I was given incorrect info i was told 3.9kg but that was mass removed so 5.6kg or less will equal or beat courtenay item
ATOM_X cavaddict said: Phew!!! Glad you said that....was gonna struggle getting down to 3.9kgs lmao :clap: The research is not reliable I will do it myself in future
JohnnyN TBH looking at the pics last night I was wondering where you were going to take the remainder of the weight from?
b_b_custom cavaddict said: Yeah its getting there. Yeah this is just the run of the mill toolroom lathe, nothing like our cnc stuff. Got a bit more done today including finishing the post off 😃 Your on fire mate :twisted: lookin good. Mine is around 6.8-7.2 kg's original weight was 10.2-10.4 kgs mine was weighed on the old type industrial sliding weight type scale's. Knowing how it changed the way my astra rev's it still pull's hard but also improved it a hell of a lot up top :razz: .I can imagine how your's is going to be at about 4kg's :o , i just have a concern about how safe it is going to be seeing that it is only a cast type flywheel because they don't like to be to thin. I noticed that you are smaller in the posts & have gone all the way down to the clutch surface as well that will make it lose lose a bit more than i did, i didn't do that because i was worried about the chance of them cracking at the base due to the load factors. Seen that you have done this i would drill a tap the preasure plate bolt's all the way through the fly wheel so it help's give the posts a bit more strength. But than again you are going to be lathing some meat off the back as well :?: so probley won't be anything to go into. good luck & cheers.. b&b
cavaddict Yeah, will be taking a fair bit out of the back, took the Cav one down to 8.5mm thick from 17mm and its still going strong after many years and a quarter of a million miles. With regards to the posts, i have put a radius on the base to give it a bit more strength and left more metal there anyways than i really wanted to so should be fine.
b_b_custom cavaddict said: Yeah, will be taking a fair bit out of the back, took the Cav one down to 8.5mm thick from 17mm and its still going strong after many years and a quarter of a million miles. With regards to the posts, i have put a radius on the base to give it a bit more strength and left more metal there anyways than i really wanted to so should be fine. Yep seen that :thumbup: mine looks to be a right angle but it's not there is a little radius only small though, done with the round file in the pic. Is your car camed up, ported head etc & remapped with a changed rev limt :?: , mine hasn't got cams or a map yet :thumbdown: thats another reason i didn't wan't to go any lighter :buffer yet so i would keep some of the torque. I'll have to keep up with your progress to see how your's goes [torque loss], if it goes ok i might take mine a bit further. P.S COULD YOU MEASURE THE THICKNESS OF YOUR'S AT THE CLUCTH SURFACE & ACROSS THE TAPPER BEFORE & AFTER YOU MACNINE IT & POST IT UP HERE :?: I would appreciate it 😃 Thank's b&b
cavaddict It's 18mm full thickness at the clutch surface now and i will probably half this (although i'll put a big radius under the starting ring) and match the taper at that thickness too to give me a 9mm section throughout. This will be a bit thicker than the Cav which had loads of mods on it taking it from 130 bhp to 175bhp. No mods done yet on my Vectra except airbox stuff although i will be doing cams, balance shaft delete, exhaust manifold and custom inlet manifold too. Once this is all done i've gotta find someone who can map it up properly.
