Z22SE Insane oil usage

Thank you! My mechanic wasn't planning on removing the crankshaft tho, because apparently you can hone and replace the rings without doing that?
Also, I need a hone device / tool for the cylinders, but I'm not sure what size I need. Does anyone happen to know?
And do you happen to know what gaskets and seals there are? Headgasket, and on the carter, is that also a seal?
You can hone the bores without removing the crank but while its out and part stripped you may as well do a full rebuild.
I would go for an adjustable honing tool like this type,

Head gasket, timing case gasket, crank shaft seals, cam cover seal. Lower crank case and sump both use sealant, be sure to use the correct type as standard rtv/silicone will leak given time. It used to be about £3.50 a tube from the main dealer 3-4 years ago.
Thankyou! Will do! Also, a bit off topic maybe, but I saw a while back on some forum that measuring oil on the z22se is different than other engines? Like you can't measure oil on it when it's cold, you need to run it hot and then wait 10min to measure. Is this actually True..?
When they have an oil cooler fitted (only the VX220 had one from factory) you should run them for a few minutes and check oil level after 1-2 minuets.
All the others can be checked cold.
I normally use Shell Helix H7 in the Z22SE's or the GM oil if it's the first fill for 500 miles as it was cheaper but now the Shell oil is cheaper in UK.
The current tensioner is intact. Could be from a previous owner maybe.
Sorry I thought carter was English, it's on the bottom of the engine, the oil pan in English I believe.
Not sure what sump is.
Thank you for your quick response, I hope corsaZ22se knows what's up


Senior Member
That's what i thought.

Sump, oil pan , Same thing. Carter is english, but it does not mean oil pan.

The spring could be from inside the old tensioner , Still can't think what the other piece would be from or the small washer.


Senior Member
Those bits are from a failed balance chain tensioner.

The balance chain tensioner has an internal ratchet mechanism which operates via oil pressure, but it also has a spring to keep the tension when the engine is not running. The oil pressure will push the tensioner to the nearest click on the ratchet as the chain stretches slightly.

The early GM chain tensioners had three press marks to hold the cap on (large disk in photo) whereas the revised tensioners have four press marks.
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As the others have said they are parts of the balancer chain tensioner. If yours are all in place then they will be from a previous failure and not removed from the sump/oil pan. Poor workmanship to leave parts floating about.
Thank you guys! I thought something was seriously broken haha.
I have replaced the piston rings and honed the cylinder walls. Gap from the rings is now almost half of what it was, must make a difference. I'll see soon enough.

Also I replaced the oil sensor since I thought it was broken but now it's still saying check oil level, is a new sensor just plug and play or is there more to it?


Senior Member
I would think that the oil level sensor is just plug 'n play, but I've never had to renew one (so I could be wrong).

Are the contacts clean and presumably there are no breaks in the wiring or loom?
I replaced the end of the wiring and it's fixed now. Also the EVAP had a cable failure which I also fixed, so no check engine light anymore! :). I have driven 250km so far and oil is still on Max. So far it looks good. I got MOT in 2 months and looks like it might just pass!

When I use an OBD scan tool it says no fault codes, but Katal.Monitor = incomplete, not sure what to do with that tho
Well done. sounds like it is all good now.
Not sure what Katal.Monitor is? Catalytic converter o2 sensor maybe? but that would put a fault code on.?
Thank you!
Yes that's what I thought too, not sure what it is, something with the cat, I'll ask them at my work Tuesday. I work at a volvo dealership. All I know is that it's bad for MOT.