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Wierd Acceleration Issue

Discussion in 'Engine Queries' started by DeanoVIP, February 21, 2018.

  1. I obviously didn't look at your picture hard enough :banghead:. So would it be the fuel injection pressure regulator vacuum pipe that has broken (part # 12564135) - they are rather thin and fragile.
  2. Yeah thats the one I ordered not sure whether it's a good idea to drive the car or not without it.
  3. I'm surmising that it would probably affect the running, so it may be prudent to avoid using it until the replacement comes.
  4. That's what I thought, also worried about taking things apart as the plastic clips holding the wires together seem so fragile. To be fair I should of expected myself the break something. The TB looked fairly clean. It's weird the car seems pretty smooth just between 2500rpm and 4000rpm peak power it kangaroos if you play with the accelerator. I will be doing a full service next Sat myself including sparks so see what happens. Failing that I might look at the coilpack.
  5. Dean, when you replace the spark plugs be cautious when you undo them, especially on cylinder No's 1 & 4 as if the plugs have previously been overtightened, it''s quite common that the cylinder head can crack due to water/coolant galleries running near to the plug threads. It's best to use progressive force rather than sudden pressure.

    The plugs are quite deep in the head so you will require a long extension bar and they have quite a long thread (which you will notice on the new ones). Again be cautious when putting the new ones in not to cross thread them and ONLY torque them up to 20Nm.

    Hope that helps. :)
    #25 KevinH, February 25, 2018
    Last edited: February 25, 2018
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  6. Everything has been ordered, Filters, plugs, oil and tools to do it as I'm a novice. I also ordered a cheap cd player as it came with a tape deck and cd changer but think it was just put in to fill a hole. Also some new headlights at £55 which are black inserts but standard looking, along with some nightbreaker bulbs as I have always found VX lacking in the brightness deptartment.

    Will tackle the sparks first as the engine should be cold I've read, then the fuel and air filter. Then I will warm the oil up slightly and do the oil change last, i bought a sissor jack and 2x axle stands, hoping I can get away with just jacking up one side. Although Im unsure where the jacking points are or where to place the axle stand :)
  7. ^ Yep never remove spark plugs from a warm engine, wait until it's cold.

    Be careful tightening up the new spark plugs, they are conical seat without washer and require less tightening torque than the more common flat seat with washer type. If you overtighten you may ruin the cylinder head.

    Here's some info:
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  8. Brilliant so 20nm will do it looking at that.
  9. Update, so I havent driven the car yet due to stil waiting on this vacuum pipe from Germany, hopefully today or tomorrow. But I have however fully serviced the car, I'm a complete novice and generally will break something but it went well. The spark plugs were a doodle looked quite dark brown around the bottom, not sure if that indicates anything. Fuel filter literally took 5 minutes, changed both headlights. I didnt fully remove the bumper just dropped it, they look a millions times better compared to the old hazed ones. The only thing that gave me grief was the sump plug! Pain in the backside to remove, it was so siezed felt like I was going to break an arm, however a different rachet, some oil to lube it up and a hammer it came off. I put 4.8 litres in and the dipstick looks full, with new nice golden oil compared the pitch black oil that came out. It took me about 3 hours and an hour was spent messing around with the sump.

    If anyone else is considering servicing their own car, go for it. Seems daunting but actually is fairly straight forward and you know its done right. Hopefully when I drive it the kangeroo accleration and decceleration would have gone, if not I will look at the coilpack and egr.

    I also have a knocking at the front which at a guess maybe a droplink.

    Thanks Kevin for you help, as you made it easy!
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  10. Well done Dean!
    Completing jobs on the car successfully does give you a great deal of satisfaction knowing you've saved some money by avoiding garage labour costs and that you've probably learnt something during the process.

    The knocking at the front is, as you say, more than likely one of the droplinks. Have a look at this resource link for drop link replacement:

    The replacement parts are:
    Joint,Rod,Front Stabiliser Shaft, M12 X 1.75 - part # 13327928 (x2)
    2 x Nut, Hex,.M12X 1.75,Link Rod to Stabiliser Shaft - part # 11609282
    2 x Nut, Hex,.M12X 1.75,Link Rod to Shock Absorber Strut - part # 11609282

    • Like Like x 1
  11. Cheers Kevin, to update the car feel a bit smoother to driver but still the dreaded judder or kangeroo is there. For example yesterday evening was behind a car we approached a 30 so released the accelerator to coast, as we left to go to a 60 the car in front speeded up, so I put my foot down, maybe half way and it feels like the engine just chokes, nothing happens revs dont move for a second then it kicks in. You get a small feeling of whiplash when it does, it can be random, doesnt seem to happen in 1st or 5th and more happens between 2500-3500rpm.
  12. Certainly worth checking both the coil pack and EGR valve.

    The only other thing I can think of that may be causing your issue is that the timing chain may have stretched. It is certainly due for renewal from the mileage covered (Vauxhall recommend 10 years or 100K miles whichever is sooner), and of course it is prudent to renew the balance chain at the same time. :)
  13. I think the coil pack is my next port of call. If it was the chain I would of thought I would hear something on starting. Also throughout the revs not just around 3k.
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