Robo22sri astra Edition 100

robo22sri

Senior Member
How has he got that out?

Doesn't look like he split the head lights?

I am on my phone so can't translate it
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
hows this :)
Convert indicator bulb from Xenon headlights

Hi
So I've searched through the forum but found nothing suitable undone so a new topic. So here I show you how I changed the häslichen yellow bulbs. 1 The xenon headlights (bake), so open complete. 2 The Yellow Hat remove / expand. 3 Another indicator bulb companies (Philips PSY24WSV +) that are installed in the Golf 6 Xenon. , the indicator bulb is a long-life bulb and costs approximately 20 - 30 € (A) 4 The installation: . Yeah well soldered before 2 with ferrules on the contacts of the indicator bulb then I got the indicator bulb on the Abdekkappe from both sides glued with a drop of super glue, because I know nothing turned pale to the rapid how I should obstruct otherwise and the indicator bulb good mood fit the cover on the cover screwed xenon headlights on it. DONE PS: THE FIRST PICTURE IS THE TURN SIGNAL BULB WITH ALREADY INSTALLED Much fun and success in the replica when baking ;-)​
 

robo22sri

Senior Member
Well car failed its mot! it failed for 3 lamps! and fuse :LOL: so £4 later for new side light, rear number plate light and a 10a mini blade fuse and rear twin filament lamp got an MOT :)
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
blow lamp and big hammer
if you're doing the rear axle put spray paint on the bolts for the hold downs before removing so you can get it back in the right place i had a right game getting it back in without the wheel catching

fronts which bones are easy just make sure the genuine arms then you will be ok
front arb is a tight squeeze but can be done front engine mount is easy to
not done the gearbox one yet :) there are some pics spotted in my project thread
 

robo22sri

Senior Member
blow lamp and big hammer
if you're doing the rear axle put spray paint on the bolts for the hold downs before removing so you can get it back in the right place i had a right game getting it back in without the wheel catching

fronts which bones are easy just make sure the genuine arms then you will be ok
front arb is a tight squeeze but can be done front engine mount is easy to
not done the gearbox one yet :) there are some pics spotted in my project thread

Was the trailing arm a pig to do?
 

robo22sri

Senior Member
Well I replaced my window runner parts and it was still knocking!

I found that the 2 10mm nuts that hold the window frame to the inside of the door were loose!

1 nut fell off it was that loose, so bit of lock tight and bolted back on no more knocking :)
 

robo22sri

Senior Member
Cambelt and water pump done! found the bloody alternator was the wrong one :( mine has 100A alternator and i bought a 70A one! no bloody markings on the top to tell the difference!

was lucky my cars cambelt had not come off! the bloody tensioner was shot as the last idiot who fitted it murdered it up so tight it was not putting tension on the belt properly!
 

Sjdickso

Staff
Cambelt and water pump done! found the bloody alternator was the wrong one :( mine has 100A alternator and i bought a 70A one! no bloody markings on the top to tell the difference!

was lucky my cars cambelt had not come off! the bloody tensioner was shot as the last idiot who fitted it murdered it up so tight it was not putting tension on the belt properly!

That sounds lucky.
 
Top