Project Freeze My engine Off (SAAB B207R Supercharged)

corsaZ22se

Senior Member
Caught me out with the first z22se in the corsa c. earth switching and live switching of relays.
even with different models of corsa they switch between the 2? :confused:
i hate doing looms but when they are done and look neat its all worth it :)
keep up the good work mate (y)
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
Caught me out with the first z22se in the corsa c. earth switching and live switching of relays.
even with different models of corsa they switch between the 2? :confused:
i hate doing looms but when they are done and look neat its all worth it :)
keep up the good work mate (y)
thanks :) its quite an easy fix just take the 12v from the main relay out put then feed the 2nd relays coil ground to the ecu output :)

found both the main and fuel pump relay were brown on top and the plastic case was brittle so bought some new ones
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the relays even got an m12 doughty seal for the oil sensor adapter
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drilled the sump for oil temp
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hope it dont leak lol
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oil pressure switch in i also rest the inlet bracket as it was set to the other engine
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wiring done for the sensor and knock
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added in wiring for the charge cooler pump 1 wire to ground the other is going to a relay in the main box but thru the infinity loom
also included the factory oil level sensor to the infinity loom i picked up the feed in the x120 plug same place the throttle pedal has been tied into
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drilled the inlet and moved the water meth jet and fitted the aem map sensor in its place
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left the factory 2.5bar t-map sensor in place and wired it for charge out temp a bit like iat1 and iat2 :)
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all thats left todo today is the injectors ,water temp sensor,oil temp sensor,boost solenoid,fuel purge solenoid and the ground to the whole loom
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evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
the ecu has its own diagnostic firmware where all outputs coils and injectors can be triggered both test out ok
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also found the issue with the fuel pump not coming on when cranking the lowside output table was inverted
before 0's (top box left 2nd row)
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after 100% and on when cranking :)
puel fump.JPG
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
Be interesting see what the difference is between the IAT 1&2 is after multiple hard load pulls.

Good work on the loom (y)
thanks took ages to do lol
well atm the t-map dont work at a guess the sensor needs 5v to make the thermistor work a wire ive not given it lol

next issue crank sensor out of aliment
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bit of jiggery pokery and its in the right place with about 0.7mm gap
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and the infinity likes it and i like the odds of starting lol
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evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
after tinkering with a few wires and the software i got the mil lamp to work from errors on the aem and then the brake switch
abs is plugged back in and just the t/c lamp on from no accelerator pedal or ecu
2 options for that
1, disconnect the lamp
2, get the unit for just "abs"
clutch switch is wired but not working i need to look at the wiring
also need to tap into the temp probe to make the cooling module and get the coolant gauge working
WP_20161029_16_18_15_Pro.jpg

had it running for over 30mins with good idle and keeping its slef cool and the afr was not to bad
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evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
had to rewire the clutch and brake switches for ground switching as they were they switched 12v and the aem dont like that
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also the a/c request switch is 12v switching but i will have to fit a relay to swap to ground switched so the engine rpm will increase when the pumps on

even managed to wire in the lsj boost control solenoid so i can have more or less boost pressure
info from the inter web on how the factory lsj boost control works
Boost Control System -Theory of Operation (from 2005 FSM)
Quote:
The PCM controls boost pressure by using the boost control solenoid. The boost control solenoid is normally an open valve. Under most conditions, the PCM commands the boost control solenoid to operate at a 99-100 percent duty cycle. This keeps the solenoid valve closed and allows only inlet vacuum to control the position of the bypass valve. At idle, engine vacuum is applied to the upper side of the bypass valve actuator, counteracting spring tension to hold the bypass valve open. As engine load is increased, engine vacuum is decreased, causing the spring in the bypass valve actuator to overcome the applied vacuum, closing the bypass valve and allowing the boost pressure to increase.

The bypass valve starts to close when the vacuum measures 250 mm Hg (10 in Hg) and is fully closed at 90 mm Hg (3.5 in Hg). When reduced boost pressure is desired, the PCM commands the boost control solenoid to operate at a 0 percent duty cycle. This opens the solenoid valve and allows boost pressure to enter the bypass valve actuator at the lower side to counteract the spring tension, opening the bypass valve and recirculating excess boost pressure back into the supercharger inlet.

Supercharger boost pressure is regulated to prevent engine and drive train damage. When the engine is operating under high boost conditions, the powertrain control module (PCM) limits boost pressure to 83 kPa (12 psi). The PCM disables boost under the following conditions:

• When reverse gear is selected
• When the engine coolant temperature (ECT) is excessively high
• When drivetrain abuse is detected
• When the vehicle is decelerating
• If an intercooler pump failure is detected
• If the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor 2 becomes excessively high
• Under heavy load in first and second gear at engine speeds above 5,800 RPM
Boost System Diagram
(1) By-Pass Valve Actuator
(2) Boost Signal
(3) Boost Control Solenoid
(4) Boost Source
(5) Supercharger
(6) Intake Plenum
(7) By-Pass Valve
(8) Throttle
(9) Air Cleaner
(10) MAF Sensor
(11) Inlet Vacuum Signal
closed
LSJ_BOOST.JPG
open
LSJ_BOOST2.JPG
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
bit more done
finally got the wiring done for the booster pump and charge cooler pump now triggered to only come on when the fuel pump is active
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went and bought a new timing light so i could confirm the ignition timing was 100%
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locked to 0 in the software and showing 0 on the crank pulley the offset was 251.5*
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now to work on the log file and get the ve table close..
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
had a puddle of oil under the car at 1st i thought it was the gearbox as it was drenched on the under side
tracked it back to the vacuum pump with the engine running there was a drip every 2 sec onto the thermostat housing
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took the rocker cover off and pulled the cam cap and pump off and resealed the cam cap to the head and put some sealant on the seal of the pump
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seams all good now
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tryed to make the temp gauge work on the dash with no joy even tryed a 12v vec b probe with the same outcome
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drive the car out side and played with the crank sensor air gap then while messing the software crashed and the ecu was bricked
no connection or anything
luckily aem put in a forcible flash wire you put to 12v then reflash the ecu to the default firmware
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now back on track and working as it should :confused:
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HarleyPete

Senior Member
Makes you wonder what VX would think if they ever got their hands on your car. They'd probably be mmmming and aaaaahing all over it looking at all the cool mods your're doing. Great work mate, always intrigued by what your doing with your car.
 
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