Z22SE Oil hell again

What do you think it is?

  • Breather pipe

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No idea

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2

N19JDK

Member
Hello first of all I am new to the forums!

This is my 4 vauxhall this year
1. Astra van 2lt DTI (chain snap 230k)
2. Astra van 1.7lt izzue engine (fuel pump fail 101k)
2. Astra bertone 1.6lt (to slow)
4. Astra Bertone 2.2 (oil is a myth)

So I brought this car one month ago, it had been stud for 3 months so roof was mucked, breaks rusted, anyways fixed all this.. and no service history...

Car has 150k miles

So I got to work..
EGR was blocked (cleared)
Throttle body was black and thick (cleaned)
Oil and filter was changed (5-30w)

When cleaning the throttle body I noticed oil behind where the throttle body sits I have no idea what the parts called but the MAF sits on top, TB sits on the front, air chamber maybe? There was a little pool of oil in there.. so soaked it up got it out..

Changed spark plugs as no idea how long these have been in, took them out and they was dripping in oil..

Anyways after the oil change and other bits I went away for the weekend 500 mile around trip on the way home near home I got a message on the senter console saying check oil level, so flat cardboard box under engine while parked left over night, checked box nothing.. checked around block no leaks or signs of leaks outside, checked oil level, below minimum, when I left it was max..
So roughly 1lt to 100miles
Was smoke on start up but once warm non.

So I thought maybe I used to thin oil..
So oil change again but with an engine desludger to remove sludge incase it was blocking breather pipe causing high pressure
So left to tick over 20 minutes as stated.
Dropped oil. (Come out like black water)
Filter out.
Left to drain.
New oil filter in.
Oil in topped to max (10-40w)

Now I've done 75 miles and to my shock the bloody check engine oil has come back on the console...
No smoke on start up though or when warm..

So my real consurn is where the bloody hell is this oil going?! I know big Lt cars can drink oil but this isn't normal! Even a Mazda Rx8 has better oil consumption and that says alot!

My instinct with its milage is the piston rings are f**ked but I'm hoping it's something less extream.. maybe the breather is blocked?..

Any help is much appreciated...

Mods if makes any difference..
Cone filter at short ram.
De-Cat.

Also was oil in the air intake pipe that leads to the throttle body from the breather pipe.
Engine code: Z22SE

**Edit**
Just Checked oil and level hasn't moved

When dropped it before 10-40w oil fill, was 2lt including 800ml of engine flush so the 5-30w was definitely leaking

5-30w semi
10-40w fully

DSC_0052.JPGDSC_0053.JPG
 
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N19JDK

Member
*bump*

I've orded a compression tester but won't be here till Thursday.

If not inside the engine what is a common leaking spot? (I've re done the rocker with a new gasket
 

corsaZ22se

Senior Member
oil control rings and valve stem seals.
It's most likely had a hard life and not had regular frequent oil changes and the oil control rings will be stuck.
cleaning the breather and PCV valve may help a bit but with the amount you are using sounds more like a full rebuild is on the cards.
 

N19JDK

Member
Any idea how much a garage would charge me for a full rebuild?

Everyone keeps telling me to buy a second hand engine and swap it over but to me that's back to square one because I won't know how the engines been treated ect

So I'm considering a full rebuild but it's down to price really I mean up to yet the engine seems pretty simple to work on to me and I've done so much (learning wise) with this engine so I'm considering having ago at rebuilding it myself if it's to expensive with labor on top because if I do mess it up just buy another engine and use the old one for spears I guess lol big job but be a lot of experience I guess lol it's currently my daily but I can walk to work as I have been doing so not massively needed at the moment

But how much would a garage roughly charge and how much would all parts be in total?
Guessing I'd need..
New gaskets, seals, head gasket, piston rings, after that I have no idea what I'd need,
Timing chain is my biggest fear tbh but my nabour across the road is a fully qualified mechanic so he'll give me a hand with that, but he won't do the rebuild he said it's to time consuming for him to do
 

N19JDK

Member
Been qouted £960 for rings and stems does this seem reasonable? If I have the work carried out will it make the engine like new again? Excluding bolt on parts such as TB and egr ect
 

corsaZ22se

Senior Member
the parts are what costs the money, timing chain kits are not that cheap £250-£300 for anything worth having.
then there is all the bolts you will need, head bolts, big end bolts, flywheel bolts and lower crankcase bolts. rear main oil seal and head gasket set then a tube of sealant . piston rings set, may as well do the main and big end bearings while you have it all apart.
very simple engine to work on and the timing is so simple, all marked up and coloured links on the new chain.
plenty of how to guides on here and some people who may even do the rebuild for you at a fee?
evocarlos vocky
 

KevinH

Senior Member
If your going to keep the car, depending on mileage, it might be prudent to renew the clutch and CSC as well if you plan on removing the engine to rebuild it.
 
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N19JDK

Member
True im in two minds weather to fix, engine swap (like for like) but there like trying to find a unicorn, or just get rid..

Compression test results..
(Working from chain across)
Dry.
Cylinder 1 - 175
Cylinder 2 - 160
Cylinder 3 - 25
Cylinder 4 -160
Wet (tea spoon of oil)
Cylinder 1 - 200
Cylinder 2 - 180
Cylinder 3 - 40
Cylinder 4 - 200

So some how I think cylinder 3 is abit fubar lol, is it safe to drive like that with about 40lt of oil in the boot?
 

corsaZ22se

Senior Member
do you have any history of this car?
no 3 that low it could be valve damage? worth taking head off and checking before you spend any money on parts.
 

corsaZ22se

Senior Member
take the head off then. check valves as it may just be a simple fix, bent/poor seating valve and stem seals?
Either way you can also check bores/pistons at same time
 
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