Marty's Z22SE Rebuild

the crank should polish out.

The con rods can go either way around, it's the pistons which must be fitted the correct way around. The gudgen pin hole is offset in the piston.


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Investigated on low oil pressure cause, i found another mistake :

In my oil pump, i saw that the spring is smaller compare to a Z22SE one.
What is the standard Z22se spring size ?
Does a smaller spring could have caused low oil pressure and damaged conrods bearings ?

Mine (3.15"):

The little spring was in my oil pump rebuilt engine and have part number 16804230 (not a gm)
I saw that on my VX220 engine the part number is GM 24450057

Also, can you give me the correct length that the oil filter housing spring must have ? Mine is 34.6mm (1.34 inchs)
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the later oil pumps had a shorter spring to lower the oil pressure.

The vx220 oil filter spring looks fine.

I would say that your big end bearings failed due to the conrod caps being the wrong way around.


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Some news about my project:

I drive my Harrop SC VX220 with stock engine with 5400rpm rev limiter since 2 years.
I decided that was time to continue my rebuilt project.
Before that, a dyno test was done :



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Starting the third rebuild !!!

I found a good German offer of a redone engine block painted in black.
86.5mm rebored and balancing shafts removed.
The crankshaft was controlled and polishing the crank pins.
With the advice of Gil-lig I measuring clearance gap between the crankshaft and the bearings of rods:

Gap is within the constructor tolerances so I can continue.
I think, on previous build I had reversed the direction of connecting rods and also dispatch them not in order with their conrods.
As Vocky said to me : surely the main cause of my blocked engines.


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Pistons into new block :

I get my old chain sprockets of balance chain with a home-made tool (inspired from masses of inertia of coachbuilders) because they are inserted in brute force:



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Now time to remove my N/A standard engine from vx:

Doing this, i saw that the slave clutch cylinder is a little seek:

So, i decided to put a new LUK one:

Also fitting a lightweight flywheel:


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Fit the new forged engine into VX:

Without rocker cover to see if oil lubricate timing chain.

In same time, put on the board oil temp, pressure temp and boost gauges to see if all values are fine:


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After that, i tried a start of the engine without fire it to see if oil pressure is growing.
Hummm, few seconds at 0.2 bar and after 0 bar.
Pffff i though another problem camed.
Control all pipes and wire connexions : all good.
Loking under car : oh noooooooooo : 3 liters of oil are on floor. WTF ?
After inspecting, oil flow by gearbox housing.
Only 2 possibilities : a crank seal failure or a leaking oil gallery.


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Once again, i remove the engine from the car to analyse situation.
Found this:

Find the mistake !!!
Really disapointed that the old owner addn't remove black tape who's hiding oil gallery hole .
Angry to see this........
I've read this topic for the first time today and i have a question for you Marty...
It's not clear for me : have you torqued your rods bolts to 75 lbft at any time in your rebuild ??? Or was it just the figures you found at first without using them to torque your ARP bolts ?
If yes, your bolts should have been changed because they are stretch bolts...
With a harrop, it can be a time bomb so be careful with overtorquing these bolts, they are VERY sensitive...