Marty's Z22SE Rebuild
- Thread starter Marty64
- Start date
Investigated on low oil pressure cause, i found another mistake :
In my oil pump, i saw that the spring is smaller compare to a Z22SE one.
What is the standard Z22se spring size ?
Does a smaller spring could have caused low oil pressure and damaged conrods bearings ?
Mine (3.15"):
The little spring was in my oil pump rebuilt engine and have part number 16804230 (not a gm)
I saw that on my VX220 engine the part number is GM 24450057
Also, can you give me the correct length that the oil filter housing spring must have ? Mine is 34.6mm (1.34 inchs)
In my oil pump, i saw that the spring is smaller compare to a Z22SE one.
What is the standard Z22se spring size ?
Does a smaller spring could have caused low oil pressure and damaged conrods bearings ?
Mine (3.15"):
The little spring was in my oil pump rebuilt engine and have part number 16804230 (not a gm)
I saw that on my VX220 engine the part number is GM 24450057
Also, can you give me the correct length that the oil filter housing spring must have ? Mine is 34.6mm (1.34 inchs)
Last edited:
Starting the third rebuild !!!
I found a good German offer of a redone engine block painted in black.
86.5mm rebored and balancing shafts removed.
The crankshaft was controlled and polishing the crank pins.
With the advice of Gil-lig I measuring clearance gap between the crankshaft and the bearings of rods:
Gap is within the constructor tolerances so I can continue.
I think, on previous build I had reversed the direction of connecting rods and also dispatch them not in order with their conrods.
As Vocky said to me : surely the main cause of my blocked engines.
I found a good German offer of a redone engine block painted in black.
86.5mm rebored and balancing shafts removed.
The crankshaft was controlled and polishing the crank pins.
With the advice of Gil-lig I measuring clearance gap between the crankshaft and the bearings of rods:
Gap is within the constructor tolerances so I can continue.
I think, on previous build I had reversed the direction of connecting rods and also dispatch them not in order with their conrods.
As Vocky said to me : surely the main cause of my blocked engines.
After that, i tried a start of the engine without fire it to see if oil pressure is growing.
Hummm, few seconds at 0.2 bar and after 0 bar.
Pffff i though another problem camed.
Control all pipes and wire connexions : all good.
Loking under car : oh noooooooooo : 3 liters of oil are on floor. WTF ?
After inspecting, oil flow by gearbox housing.
Only 2 possibilities : a crank seal failure or a leaking oil gallery.
Hummm, few seconds at 0.2 bar and after 0 bar.
Pffff i though another problem camed.
Control all pipes and wire connexions : all good.
Loking under car : oh noooooooooo : 3 liters of oil are on floor. WTF ?
After inspecting, oil flow by gearbox housing.
Only 2 possibilities : a crank seal failure or a leaking oil gallery.
I've read this topic for the first time today and i have a question for you Marty...
It's not clear for me : have you torqued your rods bolts to 75 lbft at any time in your rebuild ??? Or was it just the figures you found at first without using them to torque your ARP bolts ?
If yes, your bolts should have been changed because they are stretch bolts...
With a harrop, it can be a time bomb so be careful with overtorquing these bolts, they are VERY sensitive...
It's not clear for me : have you torqued your rods bolts to 75 lbft at any time in your rebuild ??? Or was it just the figures you found at first without using them to torque your ARP bolts ?
If yes, your bolts should have been changed because they are stretch bolts...
With a harrop, it can be a time bomb so be careful with overtorquing these bolts, they are VERY sensitive...