LSJ cam sensor onto z22se

#1
Not much info about fitting a cam sensor onto the z22se inlet cam take off. You only need a cam sensor if you want to fit an aftermarket ECU and even then not all will need one.

If I had two long camshafts in my Saab B207 head I would not need to modify the LSJ cam sensor, it could simply bolt onto the exhaust take off. But I purchased a pair of z22se cams from CatCams - one long and one short.

I am currently planning on changing the ECU on my Webcon throttle bodies and have a small wish list;

sequential injection
LSJ individual coils
LSJ cam sensor
60-2 or 36-1 external trigger wheel
Penny and Giles throttle position sensor
PWM signal for Stack dash coolant temp gauge

I machined 4mm from the mating face of the LSJ cam sensor, basically until the oil seal groove was gone

cam 2.jpg

I had to remove the internal section to allow it to be machined, plus I need the hex drive for my CatCams (they machined the hole, but never installed the hex drive). I simply removed one from a spare camshaft

cam 1.jpg

reassembled

cam 3.jpg
 
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#2
Next job was to create an adaptor flange - to include the oil feed and oil return

You can see the oil feed slot and the oil return cut out in this photo, plus the recessed bolt required to mount it on the inlet cam

cam 4.jpg

cam 5.jpg

you can see the oil return groove in this photo

cam 6.jpg

I just need to remove the oilway blanking screw from the cylinder head and then fit the modified cam sensor
 
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#3
That looks great! and thanks for sharing (y)

Bet you knew I'd turn up here:)

Small bearing puller on the hex drive to remove the internal bit and a brave pill?

How thick is the spacer plate?

Do you have any more cams you can butcher so I can buy the insert from you?

How were you planning to seal everything to keep the oil in the right places?

There's more but I'll just get the cardboard out and see if I can figure it out. :)
 
#4
adaptor plate is currently 10mm, but I might reduce it depending upon depth required for the Hex drive.

Internal bearing puller will easily remove the hex drive, unless it's welded in :LOL:

I plan on using engine sealant and leaving it 24hrs to set, I have thought about fitting O ring seals or a paper gasket.

Central hole is 52mm. Bottom bolt is tapped M8, the other two will use the M8 thread in the cylinder head.

I expect a few minor tweaks when I get around to fitting it to the engine.
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
#8
ok :)
well with the lsj coils and the aem infinity ,without a cam sensor it would only run semi sequential to run full sequential it needs the cam sensor
i started with semi sequential and a 60-2 external trigger on the crank the aem supports any kind of trigger setup and it can be mix and matched
15726649_10154886168372509_6847239447327444786_n.jpg

i then found the aem epm (engine position module) from a cam driven input it gives an 24x crank and 1x cam signal
16300227_10154992763622509_7006094611988532582_o.jpg

to make it fit i started with a saab b207 power steering pump
0.jpg

after alot of cutting and sanding i got the flange part i needed
16422455_10155003733027509_2500213723625164270_o.jpg

the sensor unit is optical
16403078_10155004158622509_8906866196644210653_o.jpg

after making a back plate and cutting the shaft to suit the drive of the epm it all got sandwiched together
16251639_10155003733087509_6455352863574682918_o.jpg

2 pilot screws keep the 2 halves in line
16252281_10155005259687509_1759185321952698430_o.jpg

after initial testing i then added a circlip to stop the shaft popping out to far and disengaging from the drive
16300222_10155005259837509_8464825612150530072_o.jpg
 

Attachments

#9
Ok made a start.

Drill guide (made from the end of a Linde 316 sideloader kingpin :))

drill jig resized.jpg


A lot of swarf :eek:

swarf!.jpg


Tapped to M10. (There is blu-tak jammed into areas to trap the swarf)

tapped cam.jpg


Trouble is the quote that came through from the engineering firm for this custom drive coupling is a lot more than I was hoping :(

custom cap head scott spencer.jpg


I'm going to check how well I've managed to centre the thread with a long m10 bolt and a DTI gauge then take a view on if it's a sensible idea to spend £135+VAT on a freaky cap head :unsure:
 
#11
or an even better idea;

weld a suitable washer to the OEM hex drive and use a bolt, then you can make sure it's 100% central before nipping it fully tight, it would need some threadlocker on the threads to ensure it did not come loose.
 
#12
For my modified LSJ cam sensor I have machined the adaptor piece down from 10mm to 8mm. I originally removed 4mm from the LSJ cam sensor, so now it will mount only 4mm from the original position.
By not inserting the Hex drive fully into the camshaft I will gain another 2mm, so the Hex drive will only be 2mm off OEM, I can live with that

By reducing the adaptor plate by 2mm has a couple of benefits;
- the LSJ cam sensor Hex driveshaft has more depth into the end of the camshaft
- the 52mm central locating lug has greater depth into the cylinder head, so should be perfectly located

8mm adaptor plate.jpg

I also machined down a Vectra B seat mounting bolt to use on the lower z22se mounting position, the reason I choose this type of bolt is that the Torx key hole is deeper and thus less likely to round off.

torq bolt.jpg
 
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#13
Do you have any more hex inserts Vocky? (Forget you no know how much its worth to me :D)

Depending on depth I was thinking of starting off with an oversized cap head ( metric or imperial) and getting it machined to accept the insert and the thread turned down to m10. The lathe at work is s**te but there are a few local places I know who would do it for beer money (y)

Plate wise I'm struggling with the best way to seal the interface between head oil outlet and plate - there's less than 3mm around the edge in places giving no room for error and even less for an o-ring groove o_O

To keep the sensor side plate clean im going to try using an M6 stud on the lower plate to head fixing point. M8 would obviously be better but there is no room to turn a 13mm nut from the back and I don't fancy die grinding right next to where the oil is coming fromo_O
 
#14
I only have one spare Hex drive but you can have it for free, just email me a postal name and address

Why not replace the oilway blanking plug with a suitable grubscrew - drill a hole down the middle for the oil, then you get more room for a seal. I will be using that method on mine.
 
#15
Thanks Vocky you are a legend

Yeah I was playing around with cut down m12 CSK bolts last night but something in the back of my mind is nagging me I've seen something better. Buggered if I can remember though
 
#17
Thanks for the hex drive Vocky

Having spoken to SCS the sequential injection is of very little real world benefit and sequential ignition is only really of benefit to the rev limiter. It would be "cool" to do this mod as I'm finding the challenge interesting, but an additional falure point needs to have a worthwhile reason otherwise it's just a folly.

Would you like the hex back Vocky?
 
#19
I finally got around to fitting the sensor yesterday. The oilway grubscrew was drilled to allow oil pressure to reach the LSJ cam sensor assembly and also filed down the height a little so it was flush with the rest of the head.

I had to allow the sealant 24 hours to set and so today I started up my vx to check for any leaks, none apparent.

LSJ cam sensor fitted.jpg

I just need to fit a shorter bolt to the lower position, saves a little weight :rolleyes:
 
#20
Way neater than what I had in mind(y)

So it was a drilled grub screw with a smear of gasket seal around the area?

I was thinking of doing that but getting an o ring to seat around the grub screw in the taper for a bit of extra support.

The ideal solution for me would be an orfs hydraulic fitting as it is sealed on the face but nothing off the shelf will fit m12 or sit flush(n)

See - I'm still thinking about it even though I don't need it:D
 
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