Cam Bearings and Lifters Need Replacing

Stu66

Member
G'Day All,

A Cam Bearing or 2 and maybe a lifter or 2 have gone in our 2004 Zafira, so I have a big question followed by the rundown.

The Big Question:
Is it feasible to lock the Cam sprockets (with KM6148 tool), leave the tension on the chain, remove the cams, replace whatever cam-bearings, cams, tappets or lifters need it, and put the cams back on, without having to move the sprockets/chain and remove the Timing Chain Cover, assuming that the chain and sprockets are currently in the correct timing locations (and of course assuming at this point that there isn't something even more drastic wrong with the head etc) ?

Here's the rundown:
Said car was running OK, timing normal, no oil-pressure light or temperature problems, until the start of a simultaneous screaching sound (reads metal-on-metal) and a constant loud rattle (reads tappets/lifters not chain) that got progressively worse so the car's now in my garage with the Cam Cover off, and pot #4 @ TDC (see photo #1 showing cam lobes up and in) and the Crank Timing marks are lined up (see photo #2 showing pulley & timing case marks and photo #3 showing secondary marks I put at bottom to make it easier to see when turning Crank with a socket drive from under the car).

Removal of the Cam cover revealed shavings of metal (including a 1 x 1.5cm concaved piece) from a bearing and metallic sludge (probably bearing ground-down with oil) sitting around the top of the head. Bearing-Cap on #4 EXH cam was loose, which I relate to the bearing now gone thus slack (see photo 4 showing the bearing missing).

The chain is still tight, and photo 5 shows INT and EXH timing marks appear in the correct alignment, but there is only a purple chain link (I can't see the chain at the location of the crankshaft sprocket but I'm happy its #4 at TDC with marks lined up).

I haven't removed the Timing Chain Tensioner or Cover yet as I'm hoping I can keep the chain and sprockets still and tensioned to keep the chain from dropping off the bottom of the crankshaft sprocket, while the cams are off.

I'd really appreciate some advice on the feasibility of just buying the Valve Timing Tool and going from there; as once back on the road the car will be sold to get a bigger 7 seater anyway, so am after the quickest, easiest and cheapest option.

Thanks for the great support and dedication you all provide to people right across the globe.

Cheers Stuart
 

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vocky

Staff
the cam bearings are actually part of the cylinder head and thus not replaceable, it sounds like the cylinder head oil restrictor has blocked which has starved the head of oil.
The only course of repair is another complete cylinder head, the cams in yours will also be scrap
 

Stu66

Member
Thanks for your reply Vocky....pity it wasn't carrying better news though :)
So I'm looking at a second-hand or reco head; I think I can source this locally (well somewhere in AUS anyway, there aren't many of these around; and I think I understand why).
GM Australia won't sell me a Timing Tool (actually they don't stock any parts for this car, yet I bought it brand-new off them only in 2004....go figure.
Is it recommended to buy a Crankshaft Pully holding tool also, or are these common enough to use an alternative ? The price for one from eurocarparts is $150.
Can you recommend a best-price UK-tool seller that will dispatch to AUS asap ?
Thanks Stuart.
 

Matt

Administrator
GM Australia won't sell me a Timing Tool (actually they don't stock any parts for this car, yet I bought it brand-new off them only in 2004....go figure.
That explains why we ship so many parts / timing chain kits out to Australia then if the deals don't sell any parts!
 

Stu66

Member
Pity I wasn't in the UK, based on the prices I've seen getting around for heads, engines and even including replacement of the entire engine, for less than the equivalent $AU of just a head without cams etc:(
Essentially many $000s of Dollars only gets a chain replacement here.
So I'm tossing around whether to take the head out and suck the cost of a rebuild, or a new one, or offload the entire car for what I can get and cut the losses.
There are a couple of complete motors here for a few $000; so is it easier in total time, to replace an entire motor, or continue with the work involved in replacing the head and chain etc ?
Any ideas guys would be much appreciated. Thanks Stuart.
 

Daveinoz

Member
Hello Stuart. My daughters 2001 Zafira, had done about 156Km's, when she bought it in May 2012. I found parts are often available from GMH, in Melbourne, but it is usually under half the price, including freight, to buy parts from the UK, for this vehicle. Autovaux is one place I had recommended to me.

I got a Crankshaft Pulley Holding Tool, for holding it while undoing the very tight Bolt, from Deals Direct. They not selling it any more, but it cost me about $20+
If you just want to hold the crankshaft pulley in place, you can screw bolts into it, as it has three threaded holes, and somehow anchor it by the bolts to a nearby part of the car, or engine, using a bit of flat steel. When you have a look in that area I think you be able to sort that out.

It seems they are a decent enough engine, from later 2002, but if the Oil Filter fails/breaks up, which is can happen anytime after 10,000Km's since last oil/filter change (the GM recommended 15,000Km's service interval appears to be dangerous), it lets bits into the oil galleries, which had happened and partially blocked the oiler and Cam chain tensioner. We found that the Timing chain tensioner and oiler, had been replaced under Warranty, but from my research, both chain kits should be replaced every 150,000Km's, or as soon as strange sounds are noticed from that area, on a cold start, and that was apparent on a really cold start, soon after she bought it.

See our efforts on the Zafira engine here.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4151585554915.173112.1442166674&type=3&l=f7388b0441
 

Daveinoz

Member
I think you will need to try and find a Z22se engine, out of a wrecked Vectra or Zafira, and hopefully it has a decent cylinder head. Years ago, when I was a Qualified Parts person, working for a GM dealer in NZ, some cylinder heads, that had no replaceable cam bearings, I thought could be line bored and bushings/sleeves put in, which deals with the damage to the head, but you still need new camshafts, it seems.

You don't have to buy the GM Camshaft Holding/Timing Tool, well it is near impossible to buy the genuine one, there are similar tools available, from the UK, and I think I have seen two different brands, one is Laser and cannot recall the other. I have searched on eBay for Z22SE and Zafira, which helped a lot.

When you are taking the head off, you will have to let the Timing Chain go down through the gap/hole, in that end of the head, so as you can get the head away from the block. Working on these engines is not much fun as limited space in many areas, and we had to buy more tools just for using on it, and one needs to pay attention to Torque Settings, due to bolts going into Aluminium Alloy.

Do you have a Workshop Manual? They cover Astra and Zafira with all their engine options. They were about $45.00 at Repco and Supercheap Auto, quite a few weeks ago.

When I find more information, that may be useful to you, I will post it here.
 

Stu66

Member
At this point I will have the head off tomorrow, so this means all associated bits are already off, except for chain-cover etc, which will follow the head.

After reading the Haynes manual (already had from last year when I had to replace the alternator-that's another long story), plus heaps of very useful info on this forum, plus talking to Nigel from this blog (http://zippyzafira.blogspot.com.au/) I came to the conclusion that doing the entire motor thing would be an even bigger job than replacing several parts over time, and I simply couldn't afford to get a mechanic to do it all, so the only solution was to do the standard blokie thing of "she'll be right...I'll do it myself"; although I know it will take quite a while around work, crap weather, kids sports and the occasional footy game on TV :)

Nigel, from ZippyZafira's indicates he can get a new head from the US for around $600 including cams etc, so this is more feasible than the $1195 in AUS for only the head, no cams.
I'll get all OEM chain and gasket kits from the UK.

The manual comes in handy but I now believe I would've caused more damage than good if I'd trusted only that; many bits are either wrong (like TDC on #1), misleading or unnecessary, such as their suggestion to unbolt the Radiator and move the Air-con compressor etc, to get the Intake manifold out...I applied some logic here and there and realised I didn't need to do this and many others...although its definitely true, there isn't much room, and I must admit I've spent hours getting some small components and bolts off that only rate a "one-line instruction" in the manual, simply because some dick-head engineers seem to love putting bolts behind things so you can't get a spanner, or shifter, or socket on them.

There are some interesting notes about AUSSIE Zafira's on Nigel's blog. Seems like mine and almost all others suffered same fate from same bunch of - perfect storm type - contributing factors.

I'll keep my progress posted; thanks for all your assistance thus far.
 

Daveinoz

Member
At this point I will have the head off tomorrow, so this means all associated bits are already off, except for chain-cover etc, which will follow the head.

After reading the Haynes manual (already had from last year when I had to replace the alternator-that's another long story), plus heaps of very useful info on this forum, plus talking to Nigel from this blog (http://zippyzafira.blogspot.com.au/) I came to the conclusion that doing the entire motor thing would be an even bigger job than replacing several parts over time, and I simply couldn't afford to get a mechanic to do it all, so the only solution was to do the standard blokie thing of "she'll be right...I'll do it myself"; although I know it will take quite a while around work, crap weather, kids sports and the occasional footy game on TV :)

Nigel, from ZippyZafira's indicates he can get a new head from the US for around $600 including cams etc, so this is more feasible than the $1195 in AUS for only the head, no cams.
I'll get all OEM chain and gasket kits from the UK.

The manual comes in handy but I now believe I would've caused more damage than good if I'd trusted only that; many bits are either wrong (like TDC on #1), misleading or unnecessary, such as their suggestion to unbolt the Radiator and move the Air-con compressor etc, to get the Intake manifold out...I applied some logic here and there and realised I didn't need to do this and many others...although its definitely true, there isn't much room, and I must admit I've spent hours getting some small components and bolts off that only rate a "one-line instruction" in the manual, simply because some dick-head engineers seem to love putting bolts behind things so you can't get a spanner, or shifter, or socket on them.

There are some interesting notes about AUSSIE Zafira's on Nigel's blog. Seems like mine and almost all others suffered same fate from same bunch of - perfect storm type - contributing factors.

I'll keep my progress posted; thanks for all your assistance thus far.

Hello friend.

I wish I could have been more help, but suppose as each Forum member offers their little bit of support and advice, it all makes the tasks facing us a bit easier.

Thanks for the information, and letting us know your progress. Helpful to know of how you found a new Cylinder Head, at a reasonable price.
I found that the Haynes Manual for the Zafira and related models, is the worst I have seen, like the least accurate, limited information, muddled up, of all the Gregory's/Haynes Manuals, that I have read, but it is better than nothing.

We replaced the Water Pump, when chains were removed, which was a challenging task, but not as frightening as described on the ZippyZafira blog, but no doubt it would be a bit more trouble when chains all in place, necessitating the use of the sprocket holding tool, in the very cramped space.

Have you ever found the old Oil Filter Element, broken up or split?
Have you ever had the Fuel Gauge going very inaccurate?

We had the Engine Management warning lamp on, and had been on, and ignored, by the previous owner. It was on because of inefficient Catalytic Converter, No. 2 Oxygen sensor, so put Injector Cleaner in with the fuel, and also the next refuel of a full tank of Caltex Vortex 95, which eventually stopped that warning. The EGR Valve, more recently, triggered a warning by jamming partially open, causing the engine to nearly stall at idle a few times, but after spraying Throttle Body Cleaner into the Throttle Body, and another dose of Injector Cleaner in the fuel, car has a travelled a few hundred Km's with no more jamming EGR valve.

We have yet to find out what is required to get the Rear Screen Wiper working, and the LH Rear Door Central Locking to work. Seems it will probably need a new Wiper Motor, most likely get it from the UK.

I hadn't found the ZippyZafira blog, so glad you mentioned that. It is a really good resource.

Michelle's Zafira likes consuming oil, so intend to use Penrite HPR15 for next oil change.

We soon noticed the Oil Pressure Switch was nearing uselessness, as it took ages to activate the warning lamp, like didn't show up before starting a cold engine, so was about to be like ZippyZafira shows. Replacing that, was a torturous job, showing that the engineers didn't care about the person replacing the various units between the Starter and Engine.

In short, it appears that myself and many others, have found that the Z22SE engine will severely punish an owner, or a subsequent owner, if Maintenance and Repairs are not always implemented, on time, and to a high standard.

I like the Zafira, and am impressed with it overall, just wish the Engineers had put a higher priority on that major item under the bonnet. Be great if GMH were to bring out the Zafira B, but guess they have a big enough product range, and a poor history on the Zafira A, would be difficult to overcome, so sales would be so slow to build up. Previous owners, now living in Italy, tell me there are a lot of Zafira's there, and are quite cheap to run and maintain. Most of them would be the B series.

I am disgusted with the poor support, and extremely high prices of many Opel/Zafira parts, from GMH. I used to be happy to have worked in a GM Dealership for many years, but now find it embarrassing! A new or used Holden vehicle, will definitely be low on my list of vehicles to buy.

Thanks for sharing your encouraging information/reports, wishing you success as you take on the job. I am keen to learn from your experiences, with this interesting vehicle.
 
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Stu66

Member
Hi David, thanks for your info and support.
I started out thinking I could get the cams off, fixed and put back on without even touching the chain :ROFLMAO:.
It is very true that people like yourself and other members of this forum, make it feasible for us mere desk-jocks to tackle these types of DIY jobs.
I've taken a heap of photos, notes and hints since starting this crusade, so I think it might be useful for other members, if I started a separate thread on just that topic, "Replacing a Head and Timing/Balance Chain kits", rather than burying it deep in this one; what do you reckon ?

In answer to some of your last notes from the top:
- the manuals certainly come in handy, especially for the specs; I think you need both, to read all the threads on these forums just to get ideas, hints and warnings, and then hit it with the book at hand.
- I'll do the water pump too; while all the gear's off I figure the extra $ and time are worth it. I've just put an order in the Autovaux for all the kits.
- my oil filter is all split; obviously this contributed to the sludgy mess up top; I've ordered two new filters, I intend to use one upon 1st start with a Nulon cleaner and fresh oil to pick up any residue (hopefully), then replace it again with the final-fresh oil.
- my fuel gauge has always been OK; although I have run out of juice before; the light can seemingly appear fully-on suddenly, when you think there's still plenty in; however there's never an excuse for letting it get down low anyhow huh ?
- my wipers have been no trouble (yet); however, my LH Rear Door Central Locking doesn't work either (??); I've noted the wiring to the connectors in the doors are too tight, and tend to pop out and get squashed in the door.
- my Engine Warning light was on for a few years; this scared the s**t out of me when it 1st came on about 100km from home, but several services never picked anything up. A lot of time on the Zafira forums revealed useful info about the relationship between sensor-errors and physical problems; ie. the mechanics plug in the diagnostics, and charge for a new sensor without asking/looking at "why" the sensor might be going off. Usually its a dirty "throttle" as in your case too; or in my case, the previous mechanics who had replaced the Brake Disc Rotors and pads, unwittingly "hung" the break calipers from the cables, not knowing that (now the manual even states this:rolleyes:) you "Don't hang the calipers from the cables, as the Speed-Sensor wiring is co-located with them". From all this I gleaned that it'd be useful to get hold of a diagnostics tool, find the code, and go looking for the fault, before replacing any sensors.
- If you damage the (internal) speed-sensor wiring, the ABS/Trac control lights come on, the ABS comes on by itself (also off-putting), and the ECU thinks because there's no movement in one of the wheels, tries to compensate and then you get a surging of revs, and sometimes it would stall at the lights etc. So after I forked out AU$1000 (at the GMH dealership) for the 1st new speed sensor, and $150 for the 2nd (second-hand) speed sensor, the ABS/Trac and Engine Warning lights promptly went off, stayed off, and the car ran beautifully from then (except until now of course). So I guess there's little lessons for us all in this, and I plan on putting some of these notes into separate threads too.
- I've never seen our oil-light come on, other than at startup-test. Interesting note on zippyzafiras indicates that NO Zafira oil-switches work but some would be empty others would be over-full of oil. This leads me to think of putting a separate cockpit-gauge in it's place when I put this mother together again. I'll troll this forum 1st of course, to see if anyone's got some ideas/hints.
- support from GMH in AUS is woeful. I needed an alternator last year, and they (local dealer as well as subsequently GMH head office) stated they didn't have to keep parts as the Zafira was obsolete (although we bought brand-new only 7yrs prior), so I had to source it from a guy in QLD who brought it in from Mitsubishi Electrics (Taiwan) where they were made, at a cost of $540.
- All in all though, the Zafira has been a great little car; the fuel economy great, speedy, folding rear and mid seats for filling up with all sorts you just couldn't do with much bigger, fuel-guzzling cars.
If this major project comes off well, the missus will probably keep the car and I'll update my aging AUII instead.
Cheers Stuart.
 

Daveinoz

Member
I
Hi David, thanks for your info and support.
I started out thinking I could get the cams off, fixed and put back on without even touching the chain :ROFLMAO:.
It is very true that people like yourself and other members of this forum, make it feasible for us mere desk-jocks to tackle these types of DIY jobs.
I've taken a heap of photos, notes and hints since starting this crusade, so I think it might be useful for other members, if I started a separate thread on just that topic, "Replacing a Head and Timing/Balance Chain kits", rather than burying it deep in this one; what do you reckon ?

In answer to some of your last notes from the top:
- the manuals certainly come in handy, especially for the specs; I think you need both, to read all the threads on these forums just to get ideas, hints and warnings, and then hit it with the book at hand.
- I'll do the water pump too; while all the gear's off I figure the extra $ and time are worth it. I've just put an order in the Autovaux for all the kits.
- my oil filter is all split; obviously this contributed to the sludgy mess up top; I've ordered two new filters, I intend to use one upon 1st start with a Nulon cleaner and fresh oil to pick up any residue (hopefully), then replace it again with the final-fresh oil.
- my fuel gauge has always been OK; although I have run out of juice before; the light can seemingly appear fully-on suddenly, when you think there's still plenty in; however there's never an excuse for letting it get down low anyhow huh ?
- my wipers have been no trouble (yet); however, my LH Rear Door Central Locking doesn't work either (??); I've noted the wiring to the connectors in the doors are too tight, and tend to pop out and get squashed in the door.
- my Engine Warning light was on for a few years; this scared the s**t out of me when it 1st came on about 100km from home, but several services never picked anything up. A lot of time on the Zafira forums revealed useful info about the relationship between sensor-errors and physical problems; ie. the mechanics plug in the diagnostics, and charge for a new sensor without asking/looking at "why" the sensor might be going off. Usually its a dirty "throttle" as in your case too; or in my case, the previous mechanics who had replaced the Brake Disc Rotors and pads, unwittingly "hung" the break calipers from the cables, not knowing that (now the manual even states this:rolleyes:) you "Don't hang the calipers from the cables, as the Speed-Sensor wiring is co-located with them". From all this I gleaned that it'd be useful to get hold of a diagnostics tool, find the code, and go looking for the fault, before replacing any sensors.
- If you damage the (internal) speed-sensor wiring, the ABS/Trac control lights come on, the ABS comes on by itself (also off-putting), and the ECU thinks because there's no movement in one of the wheels, tries to compensate and then you get a surging of revs, and sometimes it would stall at the lights etc. So after I forked out AU$1000 (at the GMH dealership) for the 1st new speed sensor, and $150 for the 2nd (second-hand) speed sensor, the ABS/Trac and Engine Warning lights promptly went off, stayed off, and the car ran beautifully from then (except until now of course). So I guess there's little lessons for us all in this, and I plan on putting some of these notes into separate threads too.
- I've never seen our oil-light come on, other than at startup-test. Interesting note on zippyzafiras indicates that NO Zafira oil-switches work but some would be empty others would be over-full of oil. This leads me to think of putting a separate cockpit-gauge in it's place when I put this mother together again. I'll troll this forum 1st of course, to see if anyone's got some ideas/hints.
- support from GMH in AUS is woeful. I needed an alternator last year, and they (local dealer as well as subsequently GMH head office) stated they didn't have to keep parts as the Zafira was obsolete (although we bought brand-new only 7yrs prior), so I had to source it from a guy in QLD who brought it in from Mitsubishi Electrics (Taiwan) where they were made, at a cost of $540.
- All in all though, the Zafira has been a great little car; the fuel economy great, speedy, folding rear and mid seats for filling up with all sorts you just couldn't do with much bigger, fuel-guzzling cars.
If this major project comes off well, the missus will probably keep the car and I'll update my aging AUII instead.
Cheers Stuart.

Gidday Stuart.

We are both disgusted with GMH, for good reason. It is so irresponsible, to say these vehicles are obsolete, as sales of them were simply discontinued, in Australia, just a few years ago. Was it about 2005? And as far as I know, in Europe they are still made, the series 2, or B version.

I needed to replace the Auxiliary Belt Tensioner Pulley (bearing noisy, worn too much to ignore), so found the Dayco part number for it, and only cost us $18.00, compared to up near $200.00 to get a complete Assembly from the UK, or the identical part close to $400.00 via a GMH Dealer.

I see you are really thinking things through, very well. Pity the oil filter is split, as that usually causes blocking of oil supply to chain oiler, tensioners and worst of all, the cylinder head camshaft lubrication. How often were you changing the oil filter? I am going to change my daughters Zafira oil and filter, every 7,500Km's, which is half the Km's GMH recommend. Seems the failing Oil Filter is the major problem with these Zafira's.

Before I put on the chains and tensioners, I poured oil into the gallery, via the appropriate hole where the Oil Filter fits, so as to try and flush out bits of the oil filter, that may have been there. Messy job, as it runs out the oiler and the hole for the Balance Chain Tensioner, and onto the garage floor. Also it would be wise to dismantle and clean the Oil Pump, as ours had bits of oil filter stuck in it.

I wish you success in getting the Zafira back on the road. Probably best to start the new Thread, as you are thinking of, as every persons experience with these engines is going to be helpful.
The Oil pressure switch seems to get blocked up, or gummed up, after a few years. So ZippyZafira blog, is right to warn us about this, but I don't agree that they never work properly. Such a difficult job to replace them, too.

I bought an Op-Com unit, from a UK Seller, which I hook up to my laptop PC, and find out how things are going, clear error codes and generally learn about what is going on under the bonnet, from the ECU. It has an older, more basic version of software included. Looks like it costs a lot to buy/obtain the latest full version. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vauxhall...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4166a0d7d6
The included download link for a TIS iso image, for a GM Service Manual, didn't prove to be fully functional software.
AutoVaux seem to be one of the best sources for Zafira/Opel/Vauxhall parts.

Weird how some mechanics are quite careless/lazy, as if they got qualified, then soon forgot much of what they learned.

We bought a smaller Torque Wrench, which had a low range, being good for correctly tightening the many smaller bolts around the Chains area. We found it very hard to undo the Spark plugs, which I am sure must have been over tightened.

Your AUII is a decent car, I reckon the AU series are quite refined, and reliable.

Thanks for sharing your experiences, with your Zafira, as every bit of information is helpful.
 

Stu66

Member
Hi David,
I "used to" only get oil filter changed when service done (obviously still not regular enough though:(). I will do these myself forever now, and will take your lead and do it in all my cars from this day on, about every 6mths/5-7.5K just to be sure they get what they need (the cost is negligible when you think about it); even bought cleaner/treatment/filter/oil for the AUII today also, just to be on safe side.

Is there a suggested cleaner solution you can use on the alloy to clean the gunk and old oil off all the bits and galleys etc without ? My pistons are really grotty too, like the car was running on oil not fuel (though never saw any smoke:confused:) and I'll need to clean these up for the new head. I'll check the oil-pump too, this is in the back of the timing case yeh ?

I think if I keep the car when its back on the road, I'll also buy a diagnostics unit. I've got other forum notes that show how to do it with a safety pin etc, but its not dear for the units I believe.

The small torque wrench is a goer too, was thinking about this the other day when using my small socket wrench to get some small ones off, wondering how the hell I'd get them back on with the right torque. The only good thing that comes out of these projects, is being able to buy new tools without the "Chief Financial Officer" arching up ;).
 

Daveinoz

Member
Hi David,
I "used to" only get oil filter changed when service done (obviously still not regular enough though:(). I will do these myself forever now, and will take your lead and do it in all my cars from this day on, about every 6mths/5-7.5K just to be sure they get what they need (the cost is negligible when you think about it); even bought cleaner/treatment/filter/oil for the AUII today also, just to be on safe side.

Is there a suggested cleaner solution you can use on the alloy to clean the gunk and old oil off all the bits and galleys etc without ? My pistons are really grotty too, like the car was running on oil not fuel (though never saw any smoke:confused:) and I'll need to clean these up for the new head. I'll check the oil-pump too, this is in the back of the timing case yeh ?

I think if I keep the car when its back on the road, I'll also buy a diagnostics unit. I've got other forum notes that show how to do it with a safety pin etc, but its not dear for the units I believe.

The small torque wrench is a goer too, was thinking about this the other day when using my small socket wrench to get some small ones off, wondering how the hell I'd get them back on with the right torque. The only good thing that comes out of these projects, is being able to buy new tools without the "Chief Financial Officer" arching up ;).

Hi Stuart. I like your humour.

I have never completely stripped and rebuilt a car engine, just gone as far as stripping an old Morris 1100 one down, many years ago, and sending it off for a Crankshaft regrind and Cylinder re-bore, then I assembled everything back onto the block. Not real keen to get into major overhaul of a Z22SE. Had the head off a SOHC Mitsubishi, and the old XF Falcon.

I used a De-Greaser fluid, I think in a 2 or 3 litre container, much like is in a spray can you would buy from Repco, and a stiff parts wash brush, to clean parts. Not sure about cleaning the pistons. Scraping them carefully, without gouging the surface would be fine, as you don't need to thoroughly clean the pistons, and they should remain smooth, like no bits of metal sticking up to cause a hot spot, resulting in pre-ignition when engine is running again. Baked on muck takes a few attempts at cleaning, and soaking overnight, too.

Seems like the Oil Control Rings on the Pistons, and/or the Valve Stem Seals, may not be doing the job that well. I expect the Head Gasket Set may have new valve stem seals in it, so you could renew them, before installing the Head. Did you need to often top up the engine oil, between changes? if not then probably just changing the oil about every 7,500Km's, and using Penrite HPR15, or similar SL or SM rated Synthetic or Synthetic blend 15w-50 oil, should reduce the mucking up of the engine, quite well.

Looks like you are studying up what is necessary, to make a thorough job of getting the Zafira Engine in good condition. I find it encouraging, how you are taking on the challenge, and learning from various sources. It is worthwhile looking at these sites, too. http://www.opelaus.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?11-Zafira-Models http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk http://opeloem.com/vauxhall/astra_g__zafira_a_1998_/

Thanks for posting your thoughts and progress, as it helps more than we may realise.
 
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Daveinoz

Member
The Degreaser I got from Cheap as Chips, I reckon. It was 5 Star brand, 2.5 Litre. If it doesn't do the job well enough, on certain parts, then I used Mineral Turpentine. I cleaned the Bolt Holes with a rag with Turps on, then the bolts with thread lock on them, which come in the Chain Kits, should hold in place better. Best you get a new set of Cylinder Head Bolts, too, as that will ensure a stable, long term, even torque on the Cylinder Head.
 

Stu66

Member
Get this: I got a box full of Timing and Balance chain kits, crankshaft seal, head/rocker/timing-case gasket kits, water pump, head bolts, 2 x oil filters and spark plugs, from AutoVaux for AU$730:cool: delivered to my door.
The same kits from GMH locally was AU$2050(n).
I also got a fully reco'd head, including cams and valves for AU$580:cool:, from Clearwater Cylinder Heads at www.cylinder-heads.com in Mexico, delivered to my door. Thanks to Nigel at ZippyZafiras for this contact(y).
A new head from GMH locally was AU$6850 with cams but still no valves(n).
And that's for parts only (more than the current market value of the car); imagine what it would cost for labour to fit all this s**t:eek:.
:finger:to GMH !!
Only issue now, is that Autovaux didn't send me the sprockets and bolts for the balance-chain, so to use old sprockets with new chain and all other new bits, would be 95% new 5% old, sort of defeats the purpose:confused:.
Also, the bag of head bolts, although fully sealed, contained one bolt different than the other 9; thinner and shorter thread, rendered the whole batch useless:mad: I can't even buy a single bolt locally, has to be a full bag at $110; hopefully Autovaux come through:cautious:.
I got some Selleys degreaser and am pretty much hitting everything I come across :) using a toothbrush, degreaser, cloth and air-blower or vacuum to get rid of the particles.
To clean the pistons I used a vacuum cleaner + plastic scraper for the big flakey stuff, then toothbrush + degreaser for the oil build up, then a light touch of 1500 wet and dry + degreaser for the carbon build up and block surface.
So between the head bolt and balance-chain sprocket saga, I'm stuck in the mud:grumpy:.
 

Daveinoz

Member
Get this: I got a box full of Timing and Balance chain kits, crankshaft seal, head/rocker/timing-case gasket kits, water pump, head bolts, 2 x oil filters and spark plugs, from AutoVaux for AU$730:cool: delivered to my door.
The same kits from GMH locally was AU$2050(n).
I also got a fully reco'd head, including cams and valves for AU$580:cool:, from Clearwater Cylinder Heads at www.cylinder-heads.com in Mexico, delivered to my door. Thanks to Nigel at ZippyZafiras for this contact(y).
A new head from GMH locally was AU$6850 with cams but still no valves(n).
And that's for parts only (more than the current market value of the car); imagine what it would cost for labour to fit all this s**t:eek:.
:finger:to GMH !!
Only issue now, is that Autovaux didn't send me the sprockets and bolts for the balance-chain, so to use old sprockets with new chain and all other new bits, would be 95% new 5% old, sort of defeats the purpose:confused:.
Also, the bag of head bolts, although fully sealed, contained one bolt different than the other 9; thinner and shorter thread, rendered the whole batch useless:mad: I can't even buy a single bolt locally, has to be a full bag at $110; hopefully Autovaux come through:cautious:.
I got some Selleys degreaser and am pretty much hitting everything I come across :) using a toothbrush, degreaser, cloth and air-blower or vacuum to get rid of the particles.
To clean the pistons I used a vacuum cleaner + plastic scraper for the big flakey stuff, then toothbrush + degreaser for the oil build up, then a light touch of 1500 wet and dry + degreaser for the carbon build up and block surface.
So between the head bolt and balance-chain sprocket saga, I'm stuck in the mud:grumpy:.

You are doing fantastically well, and far more thorough than most qualified mechanics would be, in my view. Pity about the shocking pricing GMH has on parts for these engines.
The genuine Vauxhall Balance Chain kit doesn't contain sprockets for the balance shafts, as they wear very little, like it takes little energy to turn those shafts, so usually sprockets are in good condition. I would recommend when replacing the Water Pump, to check the Sprocket on it, for obvious wear, if it has you may be best to replace it, but best ask others like Vocky or Daz, to see if they would replace it, and in what circumstances it is advised.
Autovaux should see you right, re the head bolts, as they have a good reputation, in Australia.
Did you get a new Bolt, for the Crankshaft Pulley, as it is recommended to use a new one.
That reconditioned head is an amazing price.
Bye for now.
 

Stu66

Member
I would recommend when replacing the Water Pump, to check the Sprocket on it, for obvious wear, if it has you may be best to replace it, but best ask others like Vocky or Daz, to see if they would replace it, and in what circumstances it is advised.Did you get a new Bolt, for the Crankshaft Pulley, as it is recommended to use a new one.
A new sprocket came with the WPump, so all new:).
Thanks for reminder; just checked and realised I also don't have the crankshaft bolt:mad:.
I was advised by Nigel from ZippyZafira (who gets these all the time) that chain kits include all necessary items including sprocket and bolts; I took this as meaning "all related sprockets and bolts", hence expecting the Balance Chain sprockets and bolts too; I asked for full kits including bolts, but (now obvious:grumpy: ) incorrectly assumed that as the crankshaft sprocket was included, so too would be the bolt; and having eyed the crankshaft sprocket, cam sprockets and the two cam bolts, thought they were all there, not thinking about the crankshaft bolt. Anyway...stiff s**t...I'm gunna have to call AutoVaux (lucky its after midnight here and still worktime there;)) and fork out a few more bob.
 

Stu66

Member
crankshaft bolt can be re-used (y)
All starting to make sense now Vocky...if an OEM kit don't include it, then reuse them.
What confuses me is how the manual says replace them when you take them off, and the cam-sprocket bolts are included with the cam-sprockets in Timing Chain kit.
Yet the crank-sprocket bolt is not included with the cam-sprocket in the Balance Chain kito_O
Its all just sooo confusing:nailbiting:
Lucky us hacks have all you blokes on this forum to put us straight ;)
 
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