Any Cam Chain fixers near Chesham?

DeanMG

Member
Your only ten minutes away from me but I don't think I can do chains I reckon I'll do mine next time but if it goes wrong it's my own fault.
its a shame you can't get it to Carl he knows the engine like the back of his hand.

I know he does... Local garages don't want to know either (or want to charge a full day labour + extras) Looks like it's gonna be a DIY job with a mate soon as I get all the bits. I'm sure it will be fun...
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
I know he does... Local garages don't want to know either (or want to charge a full day labour + extras) Looks like it's gonna be a DIY job with a mate soon as I get all the bits. I'm sure it will be fun...
theres plenty of info on the forum to help with fitting :)
 

DeanMG

Member
Hi again...
Changed both chains etc over the weekend and ran the engine briefly, (didn't go bang) but it was too dark by then to check anything.
Question: When fitting the new tensioner, should it be activated somehow or just screwed in?
We just screwed it in, but if that's wrong can I just take it out, activate it, and screw it back in?
 

DeanMG

Member
Thanks for that, but thought I'd read somewhere that the Z20NET tensioner activates itself when installed... Can anyone (evocarlos?) confirm that?
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
Thanks for that, but thought I'd read somewhere that the Z20NET tensioner activates itself when installed... Can anyone (evocarlos?) confirm that?
none of the tensioners are self activating
the only time it would self activate is when the oil pressure is up but you have to crank the engine on the starter for that not advisable the chain is slack with it not activated and could jump some teeth
i fit all tensioners activated to save the chain jumping the exhaust sprocket while the tensioner is waiting for oil pressure during the 1st start up
to activate push down and twist on the piston it should go from free sliding to sprung loaded "the spring takes the chain slack up while the oil pressure is building up thats at every start up "
 

DeanMG

Member
Ah... Does that mean I buggered up the timing by firing up the engine without activating the tensioner? If not, can I just take the tensioner out, activate it, then refit it... or will I have to re-time it?
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
you may have got lucky is it running smooth ?
if the engine has been run then it will have been activated upon the oil pressure lamp going out
 

DeanMG

Member
Hi evocarlos,

Got lucky, checked tensioner, had to activate, but refitted and running smoothly now... However, serious burning smell and smoke coming from drive belt!
Any ideas?
 

DeanMG

Member
yes very lucky :)
oil on the belt ? or maybe something else ?
Hi evocarlos... Seems I may have spoken too soon, need your expertise... After driving around for about 50 miles the belt still squeaks on start for a couple of minutes and have noticed a leak from behind it somewhere.
I noticed on another query in the forum that you mention a water pump seal sharing a bolt with the timing chain cover (ah, I thought). I f this is the cause, what does a fix involve?
 

evocarlos

Stupid Bollocks
Staff
Hi evocarlos... Seems I may have spoken too soon, need your expertise... After driving around for about 50 miles the belt still squeaks on start for a couple of minutes and have noticed a leak from behind it somewhere.
I noticed on another query in the forum that you mention a water pump seal sharing a bolt with the timing chain cover (ah, I thought). I f this is the cause, what does a fix involve?
that may be the pulley on the belt tensioner squeaking there known for it
the water pump has a m8 bolt that goes thu the timing cover to hole the lower part of the pump on its the horrible bolt that you have to lower the engine right down to get out as its 5" long and the gap is 3" lol

do you have oil around you lower crank pulley ? it may be the crank seal needs changing
 
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