Recent content by John T

Tools required; 30mm deep socket, 18mm socket, 18mm ring spanner, rachet, T bar, large flat blade screwdriver, cold chisel, a couple of wrecking bars, lump hammer, stanley knife, pliers & WD40 or similar. I would also advise the following, a carrier bag (for all the crap), large roll of paper...

John T submitted a new resource: Vectra B Outer CV Joint inc ABS ring renewal (version 1.0) - Vectra B Outer CV Joint inc ABS ring renewal Read more about this resource...

Crankshaft seal replaced at the weekend, engine degreased & power washed down, just need to keep an eye on her every day & check for any obvious leaks. Thanks to all of those who advised, will update if I have to go for the oil pump gasket.

Cheers vocky.

Another, is it necessary to replace the bolt on the pulley wheel, will phone tomorrow so that I know I will have it for weekend.

Thats spot on that jwalker(y), just a few more questions for ya fella, the seal, does it just slip back in or does it need to be tapped in square using a socket as in the haynes manual, should I oil the seal before putting it in? anything else I ain't asked that you think I should know?

Is this the correct item for the crankshaft pulley seal, had a look on the epc again & it seems to be the only crankshaft seal listed, it's just the word "REAR" that has thrown me a bit. Does anyone have any thoughts on the sump seal/gasket, any recommendations or preferences.

How easy is that, I ain't an overly experienced mechanic but willing to give it a go?

I ain't sure exactly what the leak is from, it's mostly around the joint of the sump & covering the sump itself at the timing end. The Haynes manual says to remove all traces of sealant & the GM parts catalogue doesn't list one for the vin number of my car.

Does the Vec b have a sump gasket, I can't seem to find one on the GM epc, ebay however have this, haynes manual says silicone sealant. If either would do which is the better. The leak is at the timing end & seems to be concentrated around the joint of sump/block, doesn't appear to be...

As above folks, want to do a complete change on the steering fluid, Haynes manual states nothing about renewing the fluid, only topping up. I know I can use the turkey baster method, but that still leaves the old fluid in the rack, I've also read that you can't run steering pump without any...

Sounds good fella, hope there's more to come!! better than that crap they charge £15 for a double cd in the shops.

Just wasn't sure if you had to be a "premium member" & only post in for sale section etc etc.... :thumbup:

Why oh Why do these people live sooooo far away :( :( cry.. cry.. cry.. Sorry for going off topic bud.

Listen mate, if you need a pressure switch I have one here, genuine GM working & not leaking, £10 posted, sorry mods if this is wrong. I had the same problem, replaced the switch, turned out the switch was fine & it was the oil filter cap or seal that was the problem, pm if interested mate...