Z22SE Z22SE Timing and balance shaft kit renewal

I've bought these 2 kits and was wondering how long it would take , I'm confident of doing it as I went to college for 4 yrs for mobile plant, worked in plant industry for 15yrs been away from it for a lot of years doing traffic management 20+,I've been told to start my own thread as the one I was on moved away from this , I've had the car for 3rd year to the week, so I've done alsorts to it , fan belt , ect, I've got video of fault if I can work out how to get it uploaded ,my last questions was if i could do the chain without the tool just using the coloured links, and if you can get in by taking the mount out and putting it on an axel stand, because theirs not much room, I don't have an air box just an induction kit, I over tightening no 4 plug well don't think I did last year and water came up plug chamber,plugged it with instant metal it worked but think I should do a helty coil while doing this much, and do a wee bit port polishing with my new dremel lol, anybody help me with this job, been to few garages and when I tell them it's 4-5 hrs max and I hav the parts they don't get back to me HELP PLZ ??


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figo126

Senior Member
you need to take the rocker cover off , turn engine so exhaust cam at number 4 is at 2 oclock , inlet at 10 oclock, drain oil , jack engine up , remove aux belt and tensioner , remove engine mount ,remove front pulley , all the 6 mm bolts holding the oil pump housing plus one long 8mm bolt , take engine cover off , put rag in bottom of engine so nothing falls in , or you will be taking sump off , remove all 6mm bolts holding guides on, remove tensioner from side of engine 32mm socket, cam sprockets, remove 6mm bolts holding balance shaft guides , and tensioner ,put new crank sprocket on should have a white mark on it ,line up coloured links to balance shafts only can go one way, take your time, fit guides keeping a eye on the crank mark , it will fall off best to wedge it with something, fit all guides , tensioner last , double check all marks line up, if all ok , get a cuppa , fit exhaust sprocket, put new chain in make sure it goes in correctly, theres a big lump in the middle with a little gap, you need to make sure it goes around the back , or its a ball ache to get it around with guides fitted look down from top of engine, line exhaust coloured link to mark on sprocket tie wrap to sprocket , same has inlet tie wrap it to mark so it cant move, put new crank sprocket on wedge it again so coloured link stays in place fit guide inlet side , fit exhaust guide , triple check all links in position , if ok fit tensioner at the back of engine pass the tensioner on a piece of wood to get it to tension it should quite hard to push it into the hole will take a bit of pressure to push it in, don't forget to torque all the 6mm bolts I think its 9-10 newton metres, make sure you pay attention to the crank marks sometimes it looks ok but might be out half a tooth, rebuild all bits back , just try take your time,,
 
you need to take the rocker cover off , turn engine so exhaust cam at number 4 is at 2 oclock , inlet at 10 oclock, drain oil , jack engine up , remove aux belt and tensioner , remove engine mount ,remove front pulley , all the 6 mm bolts holding the oil pump housing plus one long 8mm bolt , take engine cover off , put rag in bottom of engine so nothing falls in , or you will be taking sump off , remove all 6mm bolts holding guides on, remove tensioner from side of engine 32mm socket, cam sprockets, remove 6mm bolts holding balance shaft guides , and tensioner ,put new crank sprocket on should have a white mark on it ,line up coloured links to balance shafts only can go one way, take your time, fit guides keeping a eye on the crank mark , it will fall off best to wedge it with something, fit all guides , tensioner last , double check all marks line up, if all ok , get a cuppa , fit exhaust sprocket, put new chain in make sure it goes in correctly, theres a big lump in the middle with a little gap, you need to make sure it goes around the back , or its a ball ache to get it around with guides fitted look down from top of engine, line exhaust coloured link to mark on sprocket tie wrap to sprocket , same has inlet tie wrap it to mark so it cant move, put new crank sprocket on wedge it again so coloured link stays in place fit guide inlet side , fit exhaust guide , triple check all links in position , if ok fit tensioner at the back of engine pass the tensioner on a piece of wood to get it to tension it should quite hard to push it into the hole will take a bit of pressure to push it in, don't forget to torque all the 6mm bolts I think its 9-10 newton metres, make sure you pay attention to the crank marks sometimes it looks ok but might be out half a tooth, rebuild all bits back , just try take your time,,

Brilliant, thanks , I'll use this as a reference when doing it , think I will be able to do this job, what do u think I should do to the head without spends too much for bit extra bhp, because I need to take head off to repair the overtightened spark plug it's been plugged with a ball bearing size of instant metal, it did stop leak for over a year


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figo126

Senior Member
port out to the exhaust gasket, do same to throttle body , veccy c inlet pipe , most mods are on here , just need to search for them pal,,,,,,,
 

figo126

Senior Member
cant answer that 1 , bought mine with 16 bent valves asked on forum for mods ,porting was 1 of them so while I had engine in bits ported and polished the head,
 
cant answer that 1 , bought mine with 16 bent valves asked on forum for mods ,porting was 1 of them so while I had engine in bits ported and polished the head,

Cheers, I'd be as well doing it if I hav to take the head of to fit a helicoil [emoji1303][emoji1303]


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figo126

Senior Member
sorry pal I don't but while its off get porting, the inlet is huge so doesn't need anything , but exhaust you should be able to take out too the gasket ,
 

corsaZ22se

Senior Member
porting will add more bhp, and with supporting mods such as cams, exhaust or a blower you will see more gains.
if you have an over tightend spark plug you will be very lucky if you dont have a cracked head. :(
no fix for this apart from a new head.
cams are not cheap for the z22se, time you have got new ones and springs (10-15bhp gain) you are 2/3rds of the way to a supercharger (100-130bhp gain)
i know what i would rather spend the money on ;)
 

KevinH

Senior Member
if you have an over tightend spark plug you will be very lucky if you dont have a cracked head. :(
no fix for this apart from a new head

There is a water/coolant gallery that runs very close to No.4 spark plug so if it has been overtightened at some point, then as corsaZ22se says it's more than likely the head has cracked and water ingress is occurring.

Spark plug torque setting = 20 Nm (15 lbf ft)
 
porting will add more bhp, and with supporting mods such as cams, exhaust or a blower you will see more gains.
if you have an over tightend spark plug you will be very lucky if you dont have a cracked head. :(
no fix for this apart from a new head.
cams are not cheap for the z22se, time you have got new ones and springs (10-15bhp gain) you are 2/3rds of the way to a supercharger (100-130bhp gain)
i know what i would rather spend the money on ;)

Ive been looking into superchargers frm america, i really do want one , hav u done the conversion, its so dear, nearly a G , but would be good fun.


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corsaZ22se

Senior Member
a charger is still way more bhp per £ than cams.
done one in the corsa, and planing a second at some point.
mine was still climbing at 283bhp on stock engine with a flowed head and exhaust system. and that only cost me £1500 with mapping. :)
to much gain for a stock engine but proves how much power you can get for little cash.
 
Im going to take A day off and do the job myself , i put a bit instant metal in next to plug and it has held fr over s year still holding , just hope it comes out ok ,i do want to fit a blower bit at s time ae, got parts , nobody really wants job at just 5 hrs


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