Phase II - saab head + 11:1 CR

alanoo

Raw numbers are useless without being on the same dyno as the very first one (TMS) 😉

vocky

Exactly !

which is why I have not posted any figures.

I plan to organise a rolling road in Aylesbury or Milton Keynes for August / September, then I can compare the bhp figures between a standard vx220T, vx220sc, standard z22se and mine.

otherwise the figures are useless as Alanoo rightly said above.

winstar

vocky said:
phase 2 gained 50hp at the wheels

did the mods give a godd gain in torque or is most the power from the extended rev lmit?

vocky

my biggest problem is TMS gave me graphs for their dyno, the 'phase I' mapping was done on Northampton Motorsports old dyno and 'phase II' on their new dyno. So every chart is different 🙁

The torque is a very similar shape to 'phase I', but slightly more across the rev range.

I have drawn the FLYWHEEL bhp graph from 'phase I' onto the 'phase II' graph, this shows 'phase II' bhp has more power from 3000 rpm.

20 bhp gained at 5000 rpm
25 bhp gained at 6000 rpm
35 bhp gained at 7000 rpm (the previous rev limit)

rik1083

vocky said:
I

Hi Vocky

I'm in the middle of porting my saab head and just wondering if it's a good idea to touch the valve guides at all (I don't intend on getting new ones fitted)..
I notice you have touched them slightly, but in the cnc one it has totally wiped them out..

Cheers
Richard

vocky

I used to remove them, but these days I prefer to just round off the edges (thats how the GM racing valve guides are supplied)

for a race engine it's worth removing them, but for a road car it's better to keep them the original length - this makes the valve guides last longer too.

the reason the cnc heads have them removed is it's easier to machine the ports, so cheaper and more profit

rik1083

vocky said:
I have finally sorted a permanent solution to the coil pack extensions, I simply fitted another small spring inside the extension to allow positive pressure on the coil pack to plug (like on the z22se standard set up)

you could also fit a longer single spring to replace the original if you so wish 🙂

I also have fitted a set of NGK BKR7EiX Iridium Plugs, the standard saab plugs were an unknown quanity so had to go.

springs in z22se coil pack don't reach far enough into saab head to touch spark plugs?

vocky

the saab head uses different spark plugs, the ones with a flat washer rather than taper plugs, so the tip is slightly lower than the z22se plug.

To ensure a good contact it's best to add another spring in the spark plug extensions, in fact it's probably best to use the later spec extensions anyway.

rik1083

any idea where/what to buy?
Cheers

vocky

Might be best to get a spare coil pack off ebay or buy some new springs from an industrial supplier.

The old coil packs had a 'resistor/something' in between the two springs, the later coil pack has a single spring, I used one of the old style springs with a new style spring to create a longer spring.

old coil pack = 12567686, new coil pack = 12580537

rik1083

ah!
I have 2 coil packs actually.. will have to see which ones they are.. do the springs just pull out?

Cheers

vocky

I pushed them out with a screwdriver 🙂

rik1083

vocky said:
the 'saab / lsj / z20net' cylinder head has an extra ancillary drive fitted to the exhaust cam. The z22se exhaust camshaft is shorter so unless you use 'saab / lsj / z20net' cams you need to blank off two oilways.

the first is for the cam bearing and the second is an oil feed for the exhaust cam driven ancillary.

I had several ideas to blank these off but decided on a simple method, drill and tap M10x1.5 and fit a matching grubscrew with some threadlocker.

These are the two oilways circled in red, I have already drilled and tapped them :thumbup:

tip: to open up the oblong cam bearing oilway I started with a 4mm drill bit and then increased the hole size in steps of 0.5mm until I reached the required size for the tap.

vocky, thinking of tapping the exhaust ancilliary to 1/8" npt to run an oil temp sensor, I think it's conveniently about the right size.. what do you think?
also whats the minimum thinkness of plate I could get away with using?

vocky

you could tap the oilway coming out of the end, then you would only need to blank off the big hole with some thin plate

I used 2mm alloy plate on the harrop build to blank that off :thumbup:

rik1083

u used some kind of instant gasket/sealant for the plate to head mating surface? never sure what to use in these situations (didn't bother on my throttle adapter plate.. but this is more oily 😛)

vocky

I used the same instant gasket as the stuff I used for the sump pan etc :thumbup:

rik1083

vocky, and idea what the thread size is on the banjo bolt for coolant vapour takeoff is? i think it's either M10x1 or M10x1.25
the other hole (meant for second coolant temp) is a standard m12 which is no problem, but the banjo is a really thin thread

vocky

you have two options,

buy a brand new pipe which comes with a brand new fitting and O ring seals - £17 ish

I have the original bolt from my saab head - somewhere :lol:

ps: m10 x 1

rik1083

thanks.. grabbed one off ebay for a few quid with an 8mm normal type hose connection
For the temp sensor hole I really want to fit a real temp guage.. but converting M12 to 1/8npt with a thread adapter bolt may be impossible since they are such a similar size 🙁

vocky

I used a S1 elise temp sender, perfect fit :thumbup:

they work on resistance to ground, so you get two outputs in a single S1 sender

the z22se ecu sender works on resistance across the two pins and won't run a seperate gauge or the stack dash gauge :thumbdown:

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