help removing inlet manifold

patricks

Hey guys @[deleted] @[deleted] @[deleted] just removing my inlet manifold so i can clean the check valve between ports 2 and 3, Almost there but the below is stopping progress

Not sure how to remove the ecu plugs - the bits that ive circled red are in the way and i dont know how to take them off so i can free the ecu. See pic below
Not sure what its called but there is a hose/pipe that connects into the inlet manifold from the gearbox side and near the oil filter housing - not sure how to remove it. I can only see one pin on top of the connector that i can push down but doing so doesnt seem to free the pipe from the connector....

Help with pics is appreciated cheers..........

vocky

you press down on the plastic tab (upper arrow) whilst pulling the metal lever upwards, you may find it easier to push the two plastic guides at the same time as lifting the metal lever (lower arrow)

patricks

Cheers think i understand what u mean tho i cant see the image u posted. What about the pipe that goes into the side of the inlet manifold? How do i take it off? Looking inside the manifold thru the throttle opening im kinda concerned even tho the EGR is removed there is still oil coming into the inlet...where could that be coming from vocky?

vocky

it's probably easier to remove the rubber hose than the actual vacuum plug, on the side of the manifold.

Oil can still come from the cam cover breather hose or from the small vacuum port between cylinders 2 and 3

patricks

Ok cheers @[deleted] metal lever is in up position and i now have direct access to remove the ecu plugs. Should I just now lever them off with a flat head screw driver?? Not wanting to break anything and i'm applying a fair bit of force they appear to be stuck.

Also the vacuum pipe looks like it is one piece without a hose (first pic below) so i cant remove the hose and leave the plug on. I know what u mean tho i have seen various pics on the net some appear to have a hose (like a coolant pipe) and others not (second and third pic). So how do i remove the vacuum plug since i dont have a hose......

vocky

the ecu plugs should simply pull upwards and off, no need for any tools to help them.

You have the solid vacuum pipe, so remove the yellow retainer clip and the hose will simply slide straight off, use a small screwdriver to get the clip to come out

patricks

Legend @[deleted] ECU plugs are off hurrah!!!! What i didnt realise was that the metall levers need to be completely pushed all the way back to the opposite end of the plug and given a further push when they are there. Last obstacle is the hose clip its going nowhere is there a vital piece of info that im not aware of? I am trying to push the clip towards the manifold with a flat head screw driver whilst depressing the pin on the hose plug and pulling the pipe towards me......but no go....?????....

vocky

just noticed you have a cable tie holding the clip in place, remove the cable tie and then totally remove the yellow retaining clip

The yellow clip comes straight up

vocky

patricks

You have very good eye sight @[deleted] yeah thats a cable tie! But thats not my engine its just a pic i posted for reference. My one looks EXACTLY like the pic below - my phone is on the blink - so i cant use pics of my car. There seems to be a pin/button on the plug that i can depress but doing so doesn't make the pipe slide out. The yellow bit sticking out of the pipe rotates not sure if that info helps. Ill have another go at trying to remove it tonight its a shame to have to stop give up and reassmble everything having come this far tho......

vocky

you have the later type fitting, two options

one - remove the complete pipe from the servo

two - if I remember correctly, you need to pull the yellow clip towards the inlet manifold and depress the two tabs (in the black connector) that it is trying to stop you from pressing

patricks

You mean take the pipe off from the brake thingy end on the firewall -thats a good idea. Figure what im going to try is to just remove the manifold with pipe on as far as it can go to give me a better view of the plug it makes sense that there are two tabs/buttons on the plug as u say but i can only feel one. Phones working so ive attached a pic. The green dot is where the button is that i can push in that ive managed to mangle lol....

Just tried to take the manifold off it wont clear the injectors by the smallest of margins so off comes the fuel rail tomorrow......oh well.....

patricks

@[deleted] sorry this is a bit long winded.

manifold is off the head YAY but it is still inside the engine bay!
injector rail is resting on top of the manifold - injectors are still connected to the wiring harness as i didnt know how to remove the clips......

Id now like to put the injectors back in the so i can get on with cleaning the manifold pcv port BUT i dont know how to handle the injectors correctly. Is it ok to just lightly clean the body of the injector with a clean lint free rag and then just blow some air on the tip? Asking because i cant take the manifold out the engine bay fully until i put the injectors back in.....PS have cleaned injector ports and made sure no debri has gone inside...

vocky

I would recommend you put some engine oil on the O ring seals, makes them go back in so much easier. You can clean the body of the injector, but do not clean the tip where the fuel comes out.

You will probably find the wiring loom is still cable tied to the inlet manifold underneath

Also carefully remove the cable ties and unclip the knock sensor plug from the manifold.

patricks

Had already detached the wiring loom underneath, along with the dipstick tube and the knock sensor before. Injectors now back in - thanks for the tip @[deleted] they went back in nicely. Spent some time trying to wrestle with the manifold getting it out but realised im not going to get far unless i move the wiring loom that is hooked up to the dipstick tube completely out the way oh and of course that brake servo hose.....seems like the oil filter housing and air con pipes are in the way.......almost done......ill be gutted if this doesnt fix the oil consumption problem lol

patricks

Just wasted 2 hours trying to remove the inlet manifold. Dunno what harry houdini tricks u guys had up your sleeve to get it out. Bad lighting isnt making it any easier. Would u say removing the alternator (4 bolts?) is my easiest option to make the room i need to get it out?? @[deleted] @[deleted]

KevinH

Hi @[deleted],

Are you positive you have removed all the induction manifold nuts and bolts (not telling you how to suck eggs). There are five M6x35 bolts and two M6 nuts on studs that secure the induction manifold to the cylinder head. You shouldn't have to remove the alternator to remove these or the manifold.

evocarlos

There is to zip ties holding cables on the bottom thats the worst bit it shold come out easy when the dipstick is unbolted and moved round

vocky

tilt the inlet away from the injector rail and then it lifts straight up, might be easier without the fuel rail in place, but can be done with it fitted

patricks

KevinH said:
Hi @[deleted],

Are you positive you have removed all the induction manifold nuts and bolts (not telling you how to suck eggs). There are five M6x35 bolts and two M6 nuts on studs that secure the induction manifold to the cylinder head. You shouldn't have to remove the alternator to remove these or the manifold.

Please tell me how to suck eggs i obviously dont know how lol. Yes the manifold is no longer connected to the head had to remove the injector rail to get the manifold past the studs

evocarlos said:
There is to zip ties holding cables on the bottom thats the worst bit it shold come out easy when the dipstick is unbolted and moved round

Yep done that.

vocky said:
tilt the inlet away from the injector rail and then it lifts straight up, might be easier without the fuel rail in place, but can be done with it fitted

Ill believe that when i see it lol. The air con compressor has only three bolts that looks the easiest option i can move the air con pipes out the way then. Removing the stud bolts in the head looks tempting but with over 500,000km on my engine im kinda concerned they might break half way if i try, Point of fact if i look at the image in my previous post i can see that the head stud bolts have actually been removed............