what do I need

al6600

Hi everyone
I will be doing my chain next Fri or Sat. I'm fairly confident doing it I've done plenty major jobs on my cars
Of course the usual, I have a stack of good tools but seems like every job I do I need something I don't have.
So is there anything special you think I need to do the job
I've got a good socket set
A big torque wrench
Decided to get a cam locking tool aswell
And all the usual garage stuff, hammers screw drivers etc
Also parts I need
Timing chain set (gm)
Balance chain set (gm)
Oil
Oil filter
If you can think of anything please let me know
Thanks

KevinH

Hi and welcome @[deleted],

You will obviously require torque settings for reassembly - they are available here (if you don't have a workshop manual):
https://z22se.co.uk/resources/2007-l61-2-2-bolt-torque-specs.29/

Tools:
It's handy to have an electric/air impact wrench for the crankshaft pulley bolt (or a long extension bar to give more 'purchase') as they are mighty tight to undo.
A low profile 32mm socket for the oil filter cap as the inlet manifold obstructs it.
A dial gauge for the torque wrench.

Parts:
Vx recommend that a new crankshaft pulley bolt is used as it is a stretch bolt, but most people here reckon it can be reused.
It might be worth getting a new auxiliary drive belt, but if not renewing it make sure you mark the direction before disassembly..

I'm sure other members will add to this.

Hope all goes well. 🙂

al6600

Thanks for link. Never thought about torque setting, I would remember while I was doing the job then try to find them lol.
Aux belt direction I didn't know it had to go in certain direction does a new one have arrows on it as I will just replace everything while I'm doing this. Also not sure about best oil to use

al6600

Oh and dial gauge forgot about that

KevinH

If you are renewing the drive belt the direction doesn't matter (they don't have arrows), but if replacing the old one mark the direction of travel so that it goes back on the same way, otherwise they have a habit of whining for a while afterwards. 🙂

I personally use GM 5w30 fully synthetic oil. (I'm sure you will get more recommendations).

vocky

you will certainly need these tools, plus a few other normal tools

24mm spanner for the cams
18mm spanner or 18mm 1/2" socket for the cam sprocket bolts
32mm socket for the tensioner
21mm socket for the crank pulley
10mm 1/4" socket for the cam guide bolts
10mm allen key for the cylinder head plug (top guide bolt sits behind it)
1/2" 450mm breaker bar
1/2" torque wrench

HarleyPete

@[deleted] has got it pretty much spot on mate. If there's anything else then I would pm @[deleted] and politely ask him as he's the man who is the guru of all things chains here. From what I've seen (and was told for someone who hasn't done one before) when Carl did mine, I would allow at least a day to do yours. I would also get a new sump plug and some sealant to reseal the sump should you find the front guide has broken. This will be down to the fact that you'll have to clean out the sump to remove all the bits from in there. Obviously you can re-use the old gasket on the chain cover but to be honest I would change it (hopefully your kits will have the gasket with it). It's worth changing the crankshaft oil seal on the cover as well I would say just as a precaution. Again when Carl did mine that's what he did, which was easier to do whilst the cover was off. There is one bolt in the water pump that is quite long and requires the engine to be dropped on the drivers side down to the subframe to get it out. Can't think of anything else but I'm sure someone will add something else to this.

Dave_Gilbert

Brake cleaner/carb cleaner to clean the threads for refitting the balance tensioners and guides as the bolts cant be torqued up correctly if oil is present(I beleive) they pull the threads out

al6600

All very helpful thanks everyone, I'm writing out as list as it's posted, it will really help on the day. Does the sump only use sealant and no gasket.
I think the gm kit I'm getting has a new gasket and oil seal

HarleyPete

As far as I remember from when Carl did mine he did say the sump has no gasket only some sealant to seal it.

al6600

Dave Gilbert said:
Brake cleaner/carb cleaner to clean the threads for refitting the balance tensioners and guides as the bolts cant be torqued up correctly if oil is present(I beleive) they pull the threads out

that makes sense, i might not have thought about it at the time but yes if there is oil in the hole the screw would act like a hydraulic piston and as the engine is aluminum and the oil would have no where to go the pressure would probably just rip the threads out

evocarlos

al6600 said:
that makes sense, i might not have thought about it at the time but yes if there is oil in the hole the screw would act like a hydraulic piston and as the engine is aluminum and the oil would have no where to go the pressure would probably just rip the threads out

the oil just affects the clamp down pressure book says 10nm dry if they're wet with oil then it would be like 5-6nm to get the same pressure as 10nm 🙂
this is why people stretch the bolts then complain they can't get 10nm the oil on the thread makes 10nm more like 20nm final clamp down 🙂

al6600

evocarlos said:
the oil just affects the clamp down pressure book says 10nm dry if they're wet with oil then it would be like 5-6nm to get the same pressure as 10nm 🙂
this is why people stretch the bolts then complain they can't get 10nm the oil on the thread makes 10nm more like 20nm final clamp down 🙂

Ah that also makes sense and I thought I knew everything

al6600

What's the difference between the sender se and the yh for some reason I thought the se was fitted on the later cars, but luckily the place I ordered the chains from phoned up to check my reg no. And it's the yh I can only think the yh is direct injection and se isnt

KevinH

You are correct, the YH has direct injection and the SE is multi-point injection.
The YH has a compression ratio of 11.5:1 compared to the SE's 10.0:1

The timing chain kit for the YH has a different exhaust camshaft sprocket but the balance chain kits are identical.

Timbo

Little torque wrench 5-25Nm
E sockets / spanners (female torx)

al6600

Thanks for the info, just realised my big torque wrench won't do the small stuff

al6600

I can't believe all this hassle because I dropped a bolt in to the sump. What clown put the sump bolt above the sub frame and didn't think it would be a could idea to have an access hole.
Anyway how do I get the sump off, bolts are out, dip stick is still in but not attached to anything else. There is not enough clearance, is lifting the engine up a bit enough to clear it, if so how do I do that i have been jacking under the sump but I can't do that because I'm trying to take the sump off, I have a crane should I lift it up with that a bit