Cam locking plate/tool....

yayoboy

Hi all, can someone who has one of these get some measurements for me or even loan me it to copy so I can fabricate one at work in preparation for changing my chain. I will gladly make another for anyone that can help so they can sell it on to make it worth their while thanks, sean

vocky

you do not need the cam locking tool to replace the cam chain, just use a couple of cable ties to hold the chain to the sprockets (y)

yayoboy

Ok mate thanks, have seen that done by searching other threads. I just wanted the tool for bling factor I suppose lol

vocky

I have the tool, only used it twice and that was when replacing the cams and I didn't want to open up the engine

yayoboy

Sooooo 😉 if you have the tool any chance of tracing it for some dimensions if it not too much bother, I'll make you a shiny s/s one as a thank you lol

vocky

honestly it's not worth the effort for you to make one, they are a pain in the butt and get in the way when fitting the chains

yayoboy

Ok mate fair enough, cable ties is the best way then, with a spanner on the cam undoing and tightening the bolts....

vocky

even with the locking tool you need the 24mm spanner on the cams, the tool would shear off as it's not very robust :eek:

yayoboy

:/ forget that then lol. Also vocky while I've got you, would slack chains relate to a 'tappety' sounding engine? I put this down to a sticky lifter and thought I'd live with it as didn't want to risk running a flush through it without knowing its history, but now I've got this issue with the balance chain, made me think..... Thanks mate

vocky

change the chains and then see what noises there are, at least then you can rule out the chains

yayoboy

Well I've got the chains, gonna do it Sunday, Can't see it being to awkward of a job, but I got this place for reference so I'll be ok 😉 no real difference doing the chains on the yh to the se is there?

evocarlos

you dont realy need the sproket locking tool

yayoboy said:
Well I've got the chains, gonna do it Sunday, Can't see it being to awkward of a job, but I got this place for reference so I'll be ok 😉 no real difference doing the chains on the yh to the se is there?

same process apart from the cam sensor on the z22yh

yayoboy

Thanks for reply Carl, yes thought so the exhaust cam sprocket is different isn't it, that's all. I'll take some pics along the way and post them up when done

evocarlos

its best to remove the sensor to save it from damage
the exhaust sprocket is different for the sensor to read from

yayoboy

Yes will do mate thanks 🙂

yayoboy

Just another quick q, is the best method to tap the tensioner to release it first then install it? So in effect your winding in the tension? Or install it then tap the front of the guide where it sits? Thanks

evocarlos

fit the tensioner activated (push down on the piston and twist) will go from free moving to sprung loaded,
the only issue fitting this way is if you have any slack chain at the front guide you cant get the tensioner in may need to turn the crank a couple of degrees
once you have the slack at the back after 2-3 tries it will screw in

yayoboy

Thanks for reply Carl, but just to 110% clarify, the method your suggesting is winding the tensioner in in its set state, so in effect I would be tensioning the chain as I wind it in and have no need to tap the guide afterwards as it should already be tensioned... Hope that makes sense lol

evocarlos

yayoboy said:
Thanks for reply Carl, but just to 110% clarify, the method your suggesting is winding the tensioner in in its set state, so in effect I would be tensioning the chain as I wind it in and have no need to tap the guide afterwards as it should already be tensioned... Hope that makes sense lol

yes
the tensioner once activated becomes sprung loaded and puts tensioning the chain
no need to tap the guide as you fitting it activated 🙂

yayoboy

Thanks mate 😉