Supercharger Fitting Guide Astra G

vocky

convert to a TMAP like the vx220 guys have done, just a simple CS remap to suit the new sensor.

evocarlos

vocky said:
convert to a TMAP like the vx220 guys have done, just a simple CS remap to suit the new sensor.

cheers neil saved me a phone call 🙂 i did just ring them but the line was busy 🙂
i can also then fit an N- type display and see the inlet temps 🙂
are they using the let 2.5bar ? i had one for awhile but was unsure of fitting

evocarlos

got thru on the phone
yes to mapping the 2.5bar but no fitting till map time 🙁

dewismotorsport

That 4 wire sensor above what's the extra wire for? I have one so think it's a 2.5 or 3 bar not checked part number yet. But the one I got in the kit from Steve's car is a 2 bar but only 3 wires.

Also when you split the charger how is the pulley removed? Is it just pressed on? And can you remove the large casing without having to take all bearing apart? As I want to port it out but not if I've got to buy new bearings etc

evocarlos

dewismotorsport said:
That 4 wire sensor above what's the extra wire for? I have one so think it's a 2.5 or 3 bar not checked part number yet. But the one I got in the kit from Steve's car is a 2 bar but only 3 wires.

Also when you split the charger how is the pulley removed? Is it just pressed on? And can you remove the large casing without having to take all bearing apart? As I want to port it out but not if I've got to buy new bearings etc

the 4th wire is a n type probe that gives air temp from the inlet the other 3 wires are the same as the 2bar but mapping is different for the 2bar vs 2.5bar

the pulley is just pressed on but thats not as easy as it sounds unless you have a big press to push it off you don't need to remove anything from the charger to get the pulley off
50 ton press makes it light work and wont damage the pulley or bearings just remember to catch 🙂

the charger splits into 3 parts snout/rotor pack/case
if you remove the bolts from the charger be ready to buy charger oil and red(alloy2alloy) anaerobic sealant 🙂

some more pics here
https://z22se.co.uk/threads/eaton-m62-supercharger-rebuild-porting.25646/

pottsey

dewismotorsport said:
That 4 wire sensor above what's the extra wire for? I have one so think it's a 2.5 or 3 bar not checked part number yet. But the one I got in the kit from Steve's car is a 2 bar but only 3 wires.

Also when you split the charger how is the pulley removed? Is it just pressed on? And can you remove the large casing without having to take all bearing apart? As I want to port it out but not if I've got to buy new bearings etc

iirc steves charger was already ported ,as I remember him saying when he bought it from the bloke in the states

dewismotorsport

evocarlos said:
the 4th wire is a n type probe that gives air temp from the inlet the other 3 wires are the same as the 2bar but mapping is different for the 2bar vs 2.5bar
[ATTACH]49950[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49952[/ATTACH]

the pulley is just pressed on but thats not as easy as it sounds unless you have a big press to push it off you don't need to remove anything from the charger to get the pulley off
50 ton press makes it light work and wont damage the pulley or bearings just remember to catch 🙂
[ATTACH]49951[/ATTACH]

the charger splits into 3 parts snout/rotor pack/case
if you remove the bolts from the charger be ready to buy charger oil and red(alloy2alloy) anaerobic sealant 🙂

some more pics here
https://z22se.co.uk/threads/eaton-m62-supercharger-rebuild-porting.25646/

Cheers, so where does the extra wire go though? If I wanted to swap at a later date where does the wire go back to? Which Ecu pin?

I currently have the bottom one in the pic with the red seal on.

Cool I have a 100 ton press at work so will piss that, just wanted to double check as didn't want to force anything off incase there is a retainer or something.

I have new oil coming but will have to check on which loctite sealent I have in stock.

Cheers

dewismotorsport

pottsey said:
iirc steves charger was already ported ,as I remember him saying when he bought it from the bloke in the states

He told me that but tbh it looks standard as I've compared it to the other charger I have, only bit that's different is the map sensor hole has been welded up and it's had a polish on the outside.

evocarlos

dewismotorsport said:
Cheers, so where does the extra wire go though? If I wanted to swap at a later date where does the wire go back to? Which Ecu pin?

I currently have the bottom one in the pic with the red seal on.

Cool I have a 100 ton press at work so will piss that, just wanted to double check as didn't want to force anything off incase there is a retainer or something.

I have new oil coming but will have to check on which loctite sealent I have in stock.

Cheers

the ntc probe wire goes no where unless you have the dutch software then it can be wired into the iat wire but on the cs map it would cause issues as its not setup that way in the mapping
the one with the red seal its the 2bar map thats the normal requirement for the supercharger

im not sure about the cs pulley either as i have had the stock pulley and the zzp modular pulley i think cs made there pulley with an 8mm hole only ?

dewismotorsport

evocarlos said:
the ntc probe wire goes no where unless you have the dutch software then it can be wired into the iat wire but on the cs map it would cause issues as its not setup that way in the mapping
the one with the red seal its the 2bar map thats the normal requirement for the supercharger

im not sure about the cs pulley either as i have had the stock pulley and the zzp modular pulley i think cs made there pulley with an 8mm hole only ?

Ah right so I can just leave the 4th wire out and just wire the other 3 in when the time comes to up the boost as it's a 2.5 bar one.

I'll do some digging about the pulley, cheers

vocky

evocarlos

evocarlos said:
yeah thats the other way (flow thru) you still get air trapped in the cooler

the expansion tank is the way i will be setting it up as i dont have the engine at the wrong end so no need to run 20ft of pipe to meet the cooler 🙂 and it will be self purging

even the option B setup for the cobalt is different (shows dual pass) and pumps to the rad 1st then inlet but still has the expansion tank on the pump feed to keep constant water supply
[ATTACH]38746[/ATTACH]

heres the standard cobalt loop without duelpass
[ATTACH]39416[/ATTACH]

@cs no the loop is set up right on miles car 🙂

White_estate

Great Write up is this top work,thanks for now giving me a charger bug ha ha ! Im toying with the idea of b207 management on t8 suite as I've got a few friends on the trionic forum that will be keen to develop a manageable non immobiliser based map as I've been a test dummy on t7 closed binary files with open immo setups which works. Sorry if I've kind of hijacked a bit :unsure:

evocarlos

t8 is mostly can based and as far as im aware you cant run the ecu with out the bcm cim and other units
i know a few of the guys who do the mapping on the t8 and when i asked it was a no go it may have all changed by now

thanks 🙂 it is only a simple guide but it will get it up and running the factory z22se ecu is more than capable up to 280hp with out the loss of any functions or the way the car runs its after then it get funky

the t8 suite is free to down load im sure i have it somewhere just never got around to all the faffing and went after market ecu much happier

White_estate

This is the issue i had with the t7 management in my astra g the saab dash uses can comms p bus and i bus lines are interfaced through the clocks so i had no option but to leave my existing ecu in place. Oh well i knew the t8 would be this way too and I've asked on the trionic forum if a pwm could be utilised for an rpm and eml output but without re writing the code its not worth doing for a few conversions although there are many spare ecu outputs as the ecu has 3 extra injector triacs for the 6 cylinder engine (uses same ecu).
On my t7 ecu i can use an open bin which gives me live mapping capability but its a basic bin and has many functions missing in the symbol table for newer engines/sofware updates especially manual gearboxes and is more suited to the auto boxes.
Like you said the best is to go for aftermarket as its much easier for a rolling road operator to setup and for basic auto tune functions via wide band for initial setup.
Great work And i love your coupe 19psi on the s/c very nice

evocarlos

only thing can on he mk4 is the abs to ecu connection for the torque request function of dbw i figured that one out when fitting the aftermarket ecu
the rpm gague is just a pwm and im almost sure the temp gague is to need to do some more messing to figure that one out
ive left the factory ecu in place to run the temp gauge(also runs the engine cooling module and a/c functions),fuel vent,oil pressure,crank sensor for rpm and immobiliser functions
the aem ecu is now running the engine its also doing the drive by wire so ive lost the input to the factory ecu meaning there's no torque request feed to the abs ecu
just the lamp on the dash its going to be rewired to the aem as it has its own tc strategies and it can make the lamp flash for slip and come on for when its deactivated 🙂

thanks 🙂 its been off the road so long now i forgot what it was like to drive its so much smoother than the standard 2.2 ive been driving round in lol
been for a trip out tonight and its up to 20psi under 4000rpm
just reworking the ve table it was set with no load but now its been driven under load alot of the boosted areas are way too rich

Terho

Hello, I have an astra g with z22se and I have thought about superchargin it. The largest problem that I have is an TUV approval, which is required for registration in Finland. Do you happen to have an approval for the Eaton m62 or some other supercharger that would bolt in to z22se?

Cheers
-Terho

vpreda2003

Hello,
Please, help me!
I have an Opel Vectra C 2003 with Z22SE engine. I want to convert him from naturally aspirated to supercharged. But, in my country, for cars older than ten years, we are obliged to make technical verification (TUV) in every year and I think that conversion will cannot not be legalized. So, I want to make this conversion in that way that in any moment to can be revert back to initial state. I have medium knowledge for auto mechanics and is my favorite hobby. I understand that I should purchase, the supercharger with manifold, and to make some parts relocations, but I have some other questions:

For beginning, if I'll keep original injectors, engine will run at a lower power or will not work at all?
Do you have a picture with idler pulley with A/C?
For cooling manifold cannot be used same engine coolant system?
I saw that exist a dual pass manifold. What is the difference in HP?
For beginning, if I'll keep original ECU with my base map, engine will run at a lower power or will not work at all? I'm sure that I will get some errors, but I don't want to spend money on remapping and to see that does not work. Remapping procedure is not cheap.
Seems I will be forced to revert for few days in every year to obtain technical periodical inspection TUV, I thing is more cheap to buy a second ECU with base map and set for my car, kept only for swap.
What do you recommend, to buy a plate or a 68mm throttle?
Thank you very much!

Keyride216

I am looking to install a charger onto my astra, and I cannot find a guide that is still a bit up2date, @[deleted] is there a chance you could maybe update this? Most of the pictures are no longer showing unfortunetly.

Cheers

evocarlos

Keyride216 said:

I am looking to install a charger onto my astra, and I cannot find a guide that is still a bit up2date, @[deleted] is there a chance you could maybe update this? Most of the pictures are no longer showing unfortunetly.

Cheers

I have done quite a few now and have many detailed pictures the guide above was done a long time ago and many of the pictures were on photobucket and there no longer accessible by me or anyone and I dont think I have to originals backed up any more
But I do intend to redo the guide at some point in the future when I have more time

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