Swirl Flap removal?

Nick_2

Hey all,

I've got a 53 plate Signum 2.2 Direct which after a while of bad economy and holdiong back at 4000rpm as if it can't breath, i had a look about and found the swirl flap actuator arm has come away from all the flaps, just lying there on top of the inlet manifold.

Now i can't afford the £130 for a new set of swirl flaps, so my question is, can i remove the flaps? If so how, and will it affect it's performance lower down the rev range much as i understand it's to help low down torque?

Thanks for any suggestions. 🙂

evocarlos

im sure someone said on here that removing the flaps but leave the flap actuator plugged in should work
but dont hold me to that its just what i read here
can you not reconnect the arm ? or is it broken

Nick_2

well a while back i noticed that 1 of the flaps had become disconnected from the bar so put it back through but there's some kind of retaining clip which was lost, so i imagine it'll be the same for the rest.

Good point about leaving the actuator plugged in to keep the ECU happy tho.
I was thinking i'd have to keep the flap assembly there so the intake length is the same and it all bolts together alright (i dont think i could bolt the manifold directly to the head). Perhaps I could just remove the flaps themselves, I.E. use some wire snips to take out the spindles?

Daz

The only problem with removing the flaps is that the gasket is an integral part of the flap assembly's. So you won't be able to seal manifold to head

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Nick_2

yeah, that's what i mean, I can't take the whole assembly away, if for no other reason than the bolts will be the wrong length!
But would removing the actual flaps themselves, but leaving the part they attach to in place be OK?

Also, before i remove it and have no car to get to the local motor factors, are there any gaskets or bolts that need replacing when removing and refitting the intake? or are they re-useable?

Daz

You cant remove the flaps as they are part of the gasket assembly. unless you can find gaskets without holes in them,

Nick_2

Ahh, i see. that does throw a spanner in the works.

Maybe use some of that liquid sealant gasket stuff? or failing that remove the plastic flap material but leave the spindle in place? Although is is seeming more and more like a bodge job. 🙁

Nick_2

Right, it's been a while but since the arrival of a 2nd car I can spend more time taking the Signum apart.

I want to remove the flaps, but leave the spindles so i can leave the gasket in place. If i can pull the manifold off just enough to take out the flaps assembly, i can cut off the flaps and refit. hopefully i wont have to remove every other device attached to the inlet!

Does this sound feasible or am i kidding myself i can do this without too much hassle?

Daz

Manifold will have to come off... worst part is getting the injectors out the head.

Nick_2

you have to remove the injectors!?!? Seriously? i can see the ecu, and throttle body, various sensors and breather getting in the way, but tbh i didn't see the injectors. I assume they're buried underneath other stuff?

Daz

Just hunting for a pic..

Nick_2

just read the haynes manual, which may as well be a "Point Horror" book! I have to remove everything! I wouldn't be surprised if i had to take off the back box too!

Intake pipe work
Throttle Body
Breather
ECU
Alternator
Aux belt
Dip stick
every sensor you could mention

Nick_2

Just had another thought. with the control arm off and the flaps disconnected, would they be pulled shut or open by the air flow?

If they're pulled open by the airflow (i'm hoping here!), could the engine issue be that a flap is jammed shut (with oil\soot\crud)? Which would also point to the reason why the control arm broke off in the first place.

I'll try putting a coat hanger down there to hook the flaps and see if any are stuck.

Dazzler

Any more news on this thread?

Teit

I have removed my swirl flaps and in the seal I made 8 mm threaded and screwed an 8 mm bolt in (and cut it off in so it is only fill the plastic) the with faster glue.it is working. and the swirl flaps engine just need to be connected

SuperHeavy1203

How did it drive and perform de-flapped?

Teit

SuperHeavy1203 said:
How did it drive and perform de-flapped?

It is still working no problems don 300000 km

SuperHeavy1203

Ok any noticeable difference in acceleration either good or bad?
Any change to mpg?

Thanks again.

Teit

better at full, my avg is 10/11 km/l at 80/90 km on small roads it can do 15 km/l on hire way 115/120 km/t 12/14 km/l

my is a 22yh whit exhaust and optimized ecu