Z22YH starter motor part number ?

omega2498

My car is a late Nov 2005 `facelift' Signum 2.2 petrol. Does anyone know the part number for the starter ?
What sort of a job is it to replace ? Regards

evocarlos

some part numbers listed for the starter
-->here<--
edit:- and some here to http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/opel/93175890.html
and someone posted the other day just a few bolts and the wire terminals i believe he said

omega2498

That what I like about Vauxhall / GM. Why have one part number when you can have a dozen. Thanks anyway :-)

evocarlos

they do it so the can increase price of items and have newer superseded items
i don't have tis so can't get proper part number
easy way is to ring your local vx and get in touch with the parts guy an ask for the part number
or just get yours reconditioned

omega2498

Well - the GM part number is 55556245 ; and that will be £357 pounds please sir :-( So off to find a recon one !

evocarlos

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAAB-STARTER-MOTOR-93-SPORT-2LTR-PETROL-2004-2006-B207-55556245-/261117835429?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ccbd5f8a5

taiko

Hi there, I also have troubles with my starter motor for Z22YH
The thing is I found another port number for the starter motor:
55350543 6202044 1,7 kW 11 tooth cog

the one mentioned before is
55556245 6202125 1,4 kW 9 tooth cog

So now I'm stucked to find out which one to buy 🙁. Any idea ?

omega2498

taiko said:
Hi there, I also have troubles with my starter motor for Z22YH
The thing is I found another port number for the starter motor:
55350543 6202044 1,7 kW 11 tooth cog

the one mentioned before is
55556245 6202125 1,4 kW 9 tooth cog

So now I'm stucked to find out which one to buy 🙁. Any idea ?

I don't think the 1.4 kw motor is man enough for the 2.2 YH petrol. Have a look on Ebay for an outfit called aapoldham - Andy's Autoparts Oldham. The starter from them was OK, but I don't think the solenoid was brand new. All that was wrong with my original starter motor was the solenoid (contacts). Solenoid has a clenched over end cap, and cannot be re-built. A new (Chinese) solenoid was £36 at my local starter specialist. From memory, I think a brush set was £24 + vat, armature £48 + vat. Maybe you can do a re-build if you are handy with the spanners.

taiko

omega2498 said:
I don't think the 1.4 kw motor is man enough for the 2.2 YH petrol. Have a look on Ebay for an outfit called aapoldham - Andy's Autoparts Oldham. The starter from them was OK, but I don't think the solenoid was brand new. All that was wrong with my original starter motor was the solenoid (contacts). Solenoid has a clenched over end cap, and cannot be re-built. A new (Chinese) solenoid was £36 at my local starter specialist. From memory, I think a brush set was £24 + vat, armature £48 + vat. Maybe you can do a re-build if you are handy with the spanners.

I see I'm replying to you also on http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk 😃. Did you fix your starter?

omega2498

taiko said:
I see I'm replying to you also on http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk 😃. Did you fix your starter?

I am still running on the Ebay refurbished one from aapoldham. The solenoid on it had a Lucar type male blade terminal, so I had to make up a converter lead to the original ring eyelet type terminal. Apart from that all is cranking well. In the meantime, my original starter is still sitting dismantled in a box, along with the new solenoid :-( I see no problems in fixing it, having worked on cars for many years, it is just that we have had building maintenance work going on, so I have been very busy. Get the voltmeter out and check you are getting at least 10-11 volts on the solenoid terminal on the starter when you crank. Otherwise check the yellow starter relay nearest the radiator in the main engine fusebox. Also check the voltage drop from the starter casing back to the battery negative. It should not be more than 1 volt or so when cranking.

taiko

omega2498 said:
I am still running on the Ebay refurbished one from aapoldham. The solenoid on it had a Lucar type male blade terminal, so I had to make up a converter lead to the original ring eyelet type terminal. Apart from that all is cranking well. In the meantime, my original starter is still sitting dismantled in a box, along with the new solenoid :-( I see no problems in fixing it, having worked on cars for many years, it is just that we have had building maintenance work going on, so I have been very busy. Get the voltmeter out and check you are getting at least 10-11 volts on the solenoid terminal on the starter when you crank. Otherwise check the yellow starter relay nearest the radiator in the main engine fusebox. Also check the voltage drop from the starter casing back to the battery negative. It should not be more than 1 volt or so when cranking.

Yesterday I found the connections on solenoid very corroded. The one connecting solenoid to the motor ( main positive )was heavily corroded, so I managed to break it, whilst trying to unscrew it. Now its clear I need new starter motor :mad:. I'm not that handy to repair it myself.
I'm wondering if new one will solve the problem. I see you were playing with fuse box also. Do you have the electrical scheme/picture of how it is all connected? I might end-up following your path, so would be nice to have a diagram.
Before I broke the solenoid, I already tried to check the relay. Doesn't look damaged or burned. Also I tried to swapp it with other yellow relay, but the engine didn't start anyway. Also I have measured voltage between battery and different places on the engine including starter rotor. ( not cranking). Everywhere I could measure 12,50 V.
Can't check much know with starter damaged. Need to get another one. Still need to find out which type.

Also I would like to know if I can start the engine with connecting the "main positive wire to the starter motor" directly to the battery ( + ).

connect the jump lead to the ( + ) on the motor
turn the key
connecting other end of jump lead to the battery ( +) and start the enigine
remove the jump lead (first from the battery, then from the starter)
drive the car to the dealer.

Can the plan work like this?

omega2498

Sorry, but your plan will not work, as the function of the solenoid is 1) to push the starter pinion into mesh with the flywheel ring gear, and then 2) to apply 12 volts to the armature of the starter motor. Your plan would lack 1).

Wiring is fairly conventional - there is a fat' lead from the battery positive down to the main terminal of the starter. The other key wire is the thinner 2.5 square mm lead from theforward' yellow relay in the fuse box down to the solenoid contact. This is the lead that should have about 11+ volts on it only when you turn the key.

Without current flowing, all your 12.5 volt readings indicate is that there is some electrical continuity in the wiring - it does not tell you that enough current can flow down the wiring - this is ALWAYS the problem with diagnosing starter circuits.

I think your best bet would be to have the car recovered (about £40-£50 in my area) to a starter specialist. This should work out cheaper than a general dealer. Otherwise if you can safely jack and support the car (NOT on bricks) you might be able to get a mobile mechanic out to take the starter off. You need an E14 - I think - star socket, and two 3/8 inch short socket extensions. You have to feed the two socket extensions in sequentially to get at the top starter mounting bolt, which is a pig to get to, as you have to work by feel only. Also you need to remove two connectors - one to the crank sensor, and one to the oil level switch on the sump. This is simply to get enough room to work in. Be warned that the connectors have stupid little blue locking pins in them, which need to be levered out sideways, as you cannot separate the connector halves without removing these ****** locking pins.

evocarlos

aaahhh !unwatch for the 2nd time 🙂

omega2498

Andy's Autoparts (Oldham, Manchester) are on Ebay - their part number is AAP3076. This DOES fit the Z22YH engine ! Their phone is 0161 6286199. For the price they don't charge, you may not get a brand new solenoid, but you should get a serviceable one. They also have good Customer support.
Otherwise you are into £200 or so from GSF, Partco, Eurocarparts etc.

taiko

omega2498 said:
Sorry, but your plan will not work, as the function of the solenoid is 1) to push the starter pinion into mesh with the flywheel ring gear, and then 2) to apply 12 volts to the armature of the starter motor. Your plan would lack 1).

Wiring is fairly conventional - there is a fat' lead from the battery positive down to the main terminal of the starter. The other key wire is the thinner 2.5 square mm lead from theforward' yellow relay in the fuse box down to the solenoid contact. This is the lead that should have about 11+ volts on it only when you turn the key.

Without current flowing, all your 12.5 volt readings indicate is that there is some electrical continuity in the wiring - it does not tell you that enough current can flow down the wiring - this is ALWAYS the problem with diagnosing starter circuits.

I think your best bet would be to have the car recovered (about £40-£50 in my area) to a starter specialist. This should work out cheaper than a general dealer. Otherwise if you can safely jack and support the car (NOT on bricks) you might be able to get a mobile mechanic out to take the starter off. You need an E14 - I think - star socket, and two 3/8 inch short socket extensions. You have to feed the two socket extensions in sequentially to get at the top starter mounting bolt, which is a pig to get to, as you have to work by feel only. Also you need to remove two connectors - one to the crank sensor, and one to the oil level switch on the sump. This is simply to get enough room to work in. Be warned that the connectors have stupid little blue locking pins in them, which need to be levered out sideways, as you cannot separate the connector halves without removing these ****** locking pins.

Thank you very much for the advice and ideas.
Talking about my plan I have tested it and I can confirm what you say. Starter motor turns, but as pinion didn't engage flying wheel, the engine didn't start.
Very helpful note about current in the wires. Didn't think about this before. If resistance too high indeed, not enough current in the wires, to turn the motor. So next to voltage I will measure resistance as well. I think I should not get more than few Ohms, right? Thinking high level and I forgot high-school stuff 😃.
Unfortunately I don't have any starter specialist in my area ( I'm from NL ) and also I'm not sure he would be able to help me as I stupidly broke the terminal on the solenoid.
So I'm looking for the spare, still trying to find which one I need. ( 1,7kW or 1,4 kW ). Original GM are indeed more expensive, but found one from Bosch for 100GBP on http://www.vauxhallworldparts.com/vauxhall.php?partnumber=55556245&partid=16665&ecode=&vid=18 but its the one with 1,4kW and 9 tooth cog, so searching searching searching. Going to call few Opel dealers tomorrow to confirm correct spare part type. Will post updates

omega2498

I'm pretty sure you need the 11 tooth, 1.7 kw type. A high compression ratio 2.2 litre 4 cylinder needs a fairly big' starter. Opel part numbers may include 12567585 - 12575626 - 55556245 - 6202015 - 6202037 - 6202055 - 6202125 - 93175890 - 93175908 - 9512772 - Vauxhall R1540016. In fact my original Starter is a Delco-Remy, and there is a very faint number punched into the body. From this my local Starter specialist could identify a replacement solenoid, so don't worry about the broken off part. There may be some sort of Auto Electrical specialist who can help you, as Starters are fairly basic. Have a look on Youtube for some ideas on the re-build process. FWIW you are looking for fractions of an ohm down thefat' wiring, and I stripped back some of the main loom to clean off corrosion from the main terminal connector tag.

taiko

omega2498 said:
I'm pretty sure you need the 11 tooth, 1.7 kw type. A high compression ratio 2.2 litre 4 cylinder needs a fairly big' starter. Opel part numbers may include 12567585 - 12575626 - 55556245 - 6202015 - 6202037 - 6202055 - 6202125 - 93175890 - 93175908 - 9512772 - Vauxhall R1540016. In fact my original Starter is a Delco-Remy, and there is a very faint number punched into the body. From this my local Starter specialist could identify a replacement solenoid, so don't worry about the broken off part. There may be some sort of Auto Electrical specialist who can help you, as Starters are fairly basic. Have a look on Youtube for some ideas on the re-build process. FWIW you are looking for fractions of an ohm down thefat' wiring, and I stripped back some of the main loom to clean off corrosion from the main terminal connector tag.

Ooouh man why didn't I listen to you?
I called four opel dealers, gave them my VIN number and they all said I need GM55556245 6202125 for my vectra C Z22YH, so I bough its Bosch equivalent (0986019840). This is smaller starter 1,4 kW with 9 tooth cog.
Guess what happened, when I removed my starter from the engine? It was bigger one, with 11 tooth on top of it different part number then I found before. Its 55352105. I believe its also Delco-Remy, because there is delco-remy number on it as well ( 9000952 )

So now I'm confused. Is it possible that opel mounted bigger starters before and later they realized smaller 1.4kW will be sufficient? The smaller has less tooth, so it might be less power will be needed to turn flying wheel, because the gear is changed between starter cog and fying wheel. Or maybe some spares became obsolete, so the have been replaced by others. ?

Anyhow I'm completely puzzled with all these part numbers.
55350543 6202044 1,7 kW 11 tooth cog
55556245 6202125 1,4 kW 9 tooth cog
55352105 6202090 11 tooth cog

Going to the dealer personally, hope he will be able to explain, why I have starter motor which has different part number and of course properties, then the one they are refering as the correct spare for my vectra C Z22YH.

Wll come back with the updates

omega2498

taiko said:
Ooouh man why didn't I listen to you?
I called four opel dealers, gave them my VIN number and they all said I need GM55556245 6202125 for my vectra C Z22YH, so I bough its Bosch equivalent (0986019840). This is smaller starter 1,4 kW with 9 tooth cog.
Guess what happened, when I removed my starter from the engine? It was bigger one, with 11 tooth on top of it different part number then I found before. Its 55352105. I believe its also Delco-Remy, because there is delco-remy number on it as well ( 9000952 )
[ATTACH=full]14350[/ATTACH]
So now I'm confused. Is it possible that opel mounted bigger starters before and later they realized smaller 1.4kW will be sufficient? The smaller has less tooth, so it might be less power will be needed to turn flying wheel, because the gear is changed between starter cog and fying wheel. Or maybe some spares became obsolete, so the have been replaced by others. ?

Anyhow I'm completely puzzled with all these part numbers.
55350543 6202044 1,7 kW 11 tooth cog
55556245 6202125 1,4 kW 9 tooth cog
55352105 6202090 11 tooth cog

Going to the dealer personally, hope he will be able to explain, why I have starter motor which has different part number and of course properties, then the one they are refering as the correct spare for my vectra C Z22YH.

Wll come back with the updates

Taiko - welcome to GM confusion again. Yes, my original starter has the same number punched on the body of the starter as your photo. This is GM55352105; although the zero has a slash through it so that in some lights it can look like a badly punched 8'. Underneath that you also have 90009522 - this is the number that my starter specialist entered into his database to order me the new solenoid. You may well be right that Opelcheapened' the starter motor to a 9 cog one with lower 1.4 kw power. I guess the cranking speed will be lower with the 9 cog one if this is the case? My advice would still be to strip the starter, as chances are it is only the solenoid which needs replacing if the brushes and armature look OK - and that is normally visible to the naked eye.

taiko

omega2498 said:
Taiko - welcome to GM confusion again. Yes, my original starter has the same number punched on the body of the starter as your photo. This is GM55352105; although the zero has a slash through it so that in some lights it can look like a badly punched 8'. Underneath that you also have 90009522 - this is the number that my starter specialist entered into his database to order me the new solenoid. You may well be right that Opelcheapened' the starter motor to a 9 cog one with lower 1.4 kw power. I guess the cranking speed will be lower with the 9 cog one if this is the case? My advice would still be to strip the starter, as chances are it is only the solenoid which needs replacing if the brushes and armature look OK - and that is normally visible to the naked eye.

Indeed this is also an option, as I found local company repairing starters and alternators. Will see what opel dealer will say tomorrow, if he will be able to put some light on the spare part management :-) . Also I'm courious what part would they install, if I would ask them to do so and what they would charge me :-).
Then I might/will try the starter specialist as well. Hopefully I will get chance to do so, as my wife is pushing me litle bit to let it repaired whatever the costs are, " so we can live normally with car available" :-).

omega2498

taiko said:
Indeed this is also an option, as I found local company repairing starters and alternators. Will see what opel dealer will say tomorrow, if he will be able to put some light on the spare part management 🙂 . Also I'm courious what part would they install, if I would ask them to do so and what they would charge me 🙂.
Then I might/will try the starter specialist as well. Hopefully I will get chance to do so, as my wife is pushing me litle bit to let it repaired whatever the costs are, " so we can live normally with car available" 🙂.

Yes, my Wife is always on at me to take it to the Garage'. Problem is 50% of the time the car comes back with mangled and bodged work. A common Vectra C problem with suspension drop links is that the so calledTechnician' manages to cut the rubber boot when installing , water gets in, and the link only lasts 10,000 miles 🙁 My Son has a high performance MG/Rover, and he asked a Garage to align the wheels - they took the steering wheel off (???? - why) and managed to wreck the airbag rotary coupler (aka ` clock spring'). So that is another job for us to do ....... he won't be going back to Chester Auto Services ! I have had many quality related problems with our local Vauxhall dealer with my previous Omega 2.5 TD - that Garage is now closed down. In the UK poor quality of work from Garages - even say VW Main Dealers at high £/hour - is a regular problem.