Oil sump tray

Gary_Cusdin

Thats what I am dredding.
I think there is a bigger issue here and I aint resolving this anymore

IDI_AMIN

Usually water and oil mixing means the head gasket has gone and constant overheating these are symptoms have you had the gasket done recently

Gary_Cusdin

Yes, rebuilt engine last year.
Everything was fine for around 1000 miles. Oil turned up in header and massive water leak around pump area. Pump changed, oil only in header and never come back (presume was left in water channels when stripped). 100 miles later.
Pump changed and misfire occured at 3434 rpm.
Fuel pump, FPR, coil and plugs changed. No differance.
When water pump was changed I was told of 3 missing bolts from sump tray. Now I have what looks like major oil leak (think only when running).
When I removed heat shield to check for blowing manifold I looked under to see the leak. It looked like oil mixed with water.
In short this car is going to be going for spares soon as I can't afford more work or redoing previous work.
Let alone the 2 slow punctures I have on the rear tyres.
It still looks like oil is coming from fuel pump seal, looks wet around the gearbox area. I checked water pipes from header and get to the big pipes with the flange or metal thing in the middle (under EGR valve) and under this fitting I can feel oil

IDI_AMIN

You should talk to whoever rebuilt the engine sounds like they have went wrong somewhere

MikeS

hmm i be more inclined to look at the water pump m8 as the source of the leak, instead of wasting your time clear off the excess oil and water and start looking from where it is coming from

very rare these engines have HG failure unless mechanical such as water pump

but yeh unexplained misfires tend to be HG problems

Gary_Cusdin

He wont do s**t.
He did it as a favour.
I paid him for the work and he litrally just did that. Piston rings, rebuilt head (tested as well) and chains.
I had to put all ancs back on which was a nightmare. LEt alone the injector seals that I was not aware needed replacing.
He works for longlife exhausts. It was done outside the house on eves.
When the car was done and I had issues I took it down to the owners of longlife (protech) and they refused to do anything without me paying more than £500 to take the engine out to fault find.
He ignores me when I ask for help.
I have no other routes so am looking for something else now

MikeS

one thing worse than a HG is one that hasn't been repaired properly

Gary_Cusdin

installed properly u mean Mike?
I have my reservations, especially watching gasket sealer go onto the head gasket and reading after this should not be done. I was also told by another this was ok.
It was new and the place I got it from would not warrant it if they could have proven it faulty. Also to prove it it would cost me for them to remove the engine. I only went for a water pump change.
I have lost out big time on this car now.
I did check the pump on Sunday but only around the back of it, couldn't get my hand underneath. It seemed fine but coolant was fine as well that day

MikeS

u can reach the water pump by putting our hand down the back, make sure engine is cold

no they shouldn't use sealant as they are metal gaskets nowadays rather than the old cork ones

the metal ones allow for a much better compression seal and can handle heat expansion from both head and block

if your hg is leaking then either he did not get the head skimmed, pressure tested, did not clean it properly or failed to replace seals an bolts

I seen complete c*nts use sealant on engines when they couldn't be arsed to replace seals, its like resealing your bath with silicone lol

Gary_Cusdin

I paid him to take the head off I also paid him to have the head skimmed and tested. He swears he did but I saw no results or anything from who he took it too. I believe he rebuilt the head back up with new valves all round to be safe, himself.
If HG has gone would this cause any of the head to damage or mean it needs another test?
Or could I just replace the HG and possibly get away with it?
That is if I will.
Am tempted on getting another and having this as a project

MikeS

alloy head would need to be pressure tested and skimmed, softer metal !

i got my water pump replaced at vauxhall dealership for around £300 including part

pressure test and skim only costs around £50 -£80 m8 so why risk it being warped after spending a good £100 on HG set and bolts

how much did you pay cos you can work it out yourself if he has taken you for a ride

Gary_Cusdin

Put it this way. He gave me a price of over a grand which was including all parts. I could not afford that and told him need it to be lower otherwise can't do.
He txt me saying 'don't worry, will do a good job'.
I could get parts cheaper (some from here) so i did.
For, taking head off (I removed half the ancs on front side), piston rings (bottom end not measured or tested, 1 mark on cylinder 4 which was slight) rebuild head and timing chains £600 labour. Oh, and once he put chain cover on he was gone, left me to rebuild everything which took me 2 weeks. This was what he quoted me when I said too much. Parts was not concerned about cost, labour was why I went to him. I asked him how much when he nearly finished and he said that. He ignored me when I sent back 'Are you serious??'
160 in total for head skim and valves.
Aint no mate!!

Oh, and all costs for work now Mike I don't want to do. I have spent £2500 so far since sept last year on the above, then steering rack goes. Gasket for swirl flaps. I am done as even just £200 will get me a crappy run around.
Worst part, I want to keep the car

Matt

Bloody hell Gary, that's a horrible read 🙁

Gary_Cusdin

Should try going through it Matt (not that I mean that toward you, lol).
I've known the guy for years, he was advised by another mate of mine as he was doing another mates Honda for timing chain.
He even works with cars
I still think the misses blames me, then again I decided to rebuild the car and do myself with help. Most of the engine work I stood there and watched. That hurt too.
So far 6 months of frustration. Can't dwell too much though, it still runs (for now).
It's defo going for parts, soon as I have another, some expensive bits on there lately

Sjdickso

I really hope that you get this sorted, how did you contact this guy to start with was he a mate of a mate?

** Forget the above**

Posted at the same time as Gary.

Matt

That's a shame that it's going to go for bits Gary, especially after all the effort over the last few weeks.

MikeS

where do you live gary ?

Gary_Cusdin

Bristol.
And as for spares, not sure yet. It can all depend what I find/cost/another vehicle whilst I do the work.
I say out of 4 or 5 parts on there now I can get around £600 for and that can get something like a BM.
Need to think about the family look as it's the only car.
I found my O ring for the sump bolt hanging off (I think), or atleast half of it. I could be lucky and it's that for this.
I will have a look this weekend and defo get pressure tester for cylinders and testing cat.
I would love to have the space and freedom to just take it apart. The council complained last time, I have no garage.

Gary_Cusdin

And can I add, thanks all of you for support and advise, it relieves the stress to talk about my nightmare

MikeS

firstly I would whip out spark plugs and look for any contamination, this would be a sure indicator that something sinister is going on
secondly if plugs look fine then go to a garage and ask for a block / sniffer test to look for exhaust gasses in coolant expansion tank
thirdly if that comes back oki then I would look at why your leaking moil so clean it down with diesel or carb cleaner and a rag and look from where it is leaking

sometimes you go to know when enough is enough 🙁

compression test is a waste of time on a head gasket as i have seen an x18xe engine give out excellent readings and have clean plugs just to refuse to start a week later as the throttle body has turned into a kenwood mixer full of cream

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