... to cut it short:
Cleaned (removing coke from valve head and shaft) EGR every 4 months for the last 2 years with EML on occasionally, but EML always disappeared on its own after several starts.
Then cleaning intervalls got shorter, car (Astra G Caravan Sport 03/2001) was sometimes undriveable because EGR stuck open several times. Put in self-made blanking plate and ignored EML, left EGR still connected electrically. Engine behaviour was normal .. at least to me.
2 weeks ago i put the Cheater in (EGR out completely), and after 1,5 days (app. 100 km) EML went off by itself while driving normally on a motorway. 😃 😃
Engine response and mid-range torque then were the best i ever had ... sweeeet :thumbup: This must have been the first time it really drove as it should.
But .... 4 days later EML was back on :crazy: and has not gone off since. Engine behaviour is back to "normal", not pulling as hard and responding that instant as when EML was off.
Put second Cheater with 1,3k-Resistor but EML still on after 3 days (190 km)
Put EGR in again. Same engine behaviour as with Cheater, EML still on.
Took out EGR and checked operation: 12V to pins A/E, valve moves.
Resistance values with valve closed: pins B-D 3,75kOhms; D-C 3,45 kOhms; B-C 1,84 kOhms
Resistance values with valve open: pins B-D 1,82kOhms; D-C 3,45 kOhms; B-C 3,70 kOhms
With EGR back in again, on turning ignition key, voltage on pin B goes from 1,1 Volts to 3,5 Volts and back again, so it seems the valve is shortly opened and closed again.
When driving (engine warm, EML on), voltage on pin B is 0,9 volts and does not change.
So now I´m stuck with the EML on, regardless of EGR or Cheater installed :sick:
Maybe someone could help a bit on this, I really liked the engine feel with the blanking plate on and the EML off .... 🙂
EDIT 10/04/2010 : Corrected the pin assignments for the EGR-Valve resistance values, got them mixed up.